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Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation - Page 146 - Esprit 'Project & Restoration' Room - The Lotus Forums Jump to content
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Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation

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The wastegate was made by an Australian arm of Garrett so could be just about any thread, as the parent company would have used American thread but maybe Oz used metric or imperial!

I have a box of American screws and nuts here from the days when I used to work for a US company. It could be #12 size.

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Well santa hasn't brought any mirrors😩😩😩

IMG_5816.thumb.PNG.b33409b7f22d2e3fd94443d698172244.PNGI'm not getting any younger and can't hang around. If anyone has the top or bottom mirror halfs in any condition I will buy them from you, Parts have been the biggest problem with this project. If I could have found a dry sump car I would have saved thousands of pounds. I find it very frustrating you can't get parts printed or made at a reasonable cost. I may have no choice but to get some bits remade. Very very expensive! This has got to be one of the most expensive Turbo restos ever done. 

Just need a little more help and it will be done! 

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Not much done on this due Xmas. Has anyone got a picture io the fixings for the engine bay  trim part 35? Screw and spire nut? They were off the car when I got it.IMG_5837.thumb.PNG.1801b5ba78c9f158477a00768ffd8138.PNG

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Driveshafts

just started the rebuild. Remove the rubber boot clips, prise off the end, remove circlip then press out the shaft. The bearing mechanism comes completely to pieces and is much easier to clean. When you reassemble it's like a Chinese puzzle box. With some manipulation you can refitvall the balls. Make sure you get the flat side off the centre piece to the circlip side. Grease with the stuff I recomended earlier. A messy job but has to be done!IMG_5845.thumb.JPG.946b79f92548b27cbfe0787de57d3740.JPG

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I need another inner closure plate for the drive shaft. Anyone know where yo buy them?

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Something as simple as a driveshaft rebuild is scuppered because you can't get parts! The innerplate on one of the shafts is damaged. It's purpose is only to hold on the boot. Trouble is without itbthe shaft is useless. It's frustrating with these cars as some of the parts have not been remade. Here's some pics.IMG_5846.thumb.JPG.690510e6d79191f93b1fd49419f1f3bc.JPGIMG_5847.thumb.JPG.bb1b1d50c91e511e07742a8d14fda7f4.JPGIMG_5848.thumb.JPG.cbca5b6d4222f4e5f30f9a10798f1a22.JPGThis is what you get when you dismantle it all. The lower picture on the right you can see the state of the plate. These parts don't really fit properly which is why the plate gets distorted. May have to get new shafts or devise a method for boot retention. Shame as they have lots of wear left. You can see what I mean about the Chinese puzzle!

If anyone has found a source of these plates please let me know.

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These driveshafts must be common with others cars and the CV joint of the same size must be used in other things. Therefore a retaining plate from another car should  work. Need to contact a driveshaft specialist!

IMG_5850.thumb.PNG.5a1a5b8c5f1ca986f8d7e77eb93e2878.PNG

??????

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The diameter of the CV is 108 mm. Have order an Audi A3 boot kit to see if it's comparable.

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Having investigated the cv joint looks like a fairly standard part. Hopefully the cap will fit. In the meantime I'm onto the silicon hoses.

There a lot of debate whether rubber or silicon is better?I don't really know but have gone for silicon. The main issue here is matching the diameter of pipe to the fitting. I believe the correct way is to match the pipe ID to the OD of the fitting exactly. Sometimes there's not much choice. I hope these pipes won't leak as rubber probably seals better. I have the unpleasant task of cleaning the existing pipes. I plan to repair corrosion with JB weld after cleaning. I have replaced the through chassis pipes with new and used brand new chrome connecting pipes where possible.

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Those flanges get bent if the suspension has been allowed to move too far and the driveshaft limits on the flanges and bends them.

For example if someone has disconnected the shock and allowed it all to fall down with the car jacked up. Looks like they made a proper job of it by rotating the shaft so it got bent all around! 

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It will never be pretty, but presumably you could get it reuseable with a hammer, heat and a dolly to get it back round.  e.g. using an old bearing or similar as the dolly?

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IMG_5859.thumb.JPG.b17dbe964d63815eba6c1dc7bd4dd73d.JPGWell these work and the boot fits, but Inhave already bought Lotus ones so may switch them over. Only problem the half moon washers don't fit so you have to buy the A3 ones! The originals were rusty anyway! 

New CV Hi tensile Allen bolts. Ebay from Kayfast 10 mm x 65 mm x 1.5 pitch. Cost £12 for 30. 

Now have to source the washers! 

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The driveshafts were made in west Germany and have a stamp. They look like VW ones.

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The VW camper seems to have very similar Cv joints . You can buy them for £32. Cheap fix if any of the joints are worn.

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All parts seem to be available on the Just Kampers website at a reasonable price!

That's the end of driveshaft problems for Turbo drivers!

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NB I have only bought the boots and end caps. I will also be buying the Washers. If you fit any of these it's entirely at your own risk I cannot vouch for how these components will perform and suggest you do all your own checks before buying and fitting them!

All the info on my blog is just for interest and fun. If you copy or utilise any info on this blog it's entirely at your Own Risk! 

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Used Andys idea for applying the grease. A cake syringe! IMG_5861.thumb.JPG.0125c6ce84c3becbd64d7dc9cc83c2c4.JPG

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I've nearly done the cooling pipes. They have been extensively repaired so they won't leak. Once the silicon pipes  are on the chasis I can start on the engine. It's been rebuilt already, but I am doing some of it again. Mainly cosmetic but I will check all of the valve clearances and fit new belts, as I already have it on the stand. I shall be doing the carbs again as I can putbthemminnthe unltrasonic cleaner and do a better job. I got the parts from Euro Carb. I need to look into the carb calibration a bit more before I start the process. S and J sell a meter to setbtge fuel,pressurebfor £15, but luckily I already have one.

Any suggestions on how to set them up for the fuel flow rate much appreciated? 

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