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Lotusfab

Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation

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18 minutes ago, CHANGES said:

I take it you will put the stud in the correct place when you put it back together..  

I think its a good job you are taking the time to rebuild the engine considering everything else you have done, especially when you disassembly shows such poor shimming and parts fitted incorrect..  This would put a question mark on the overall build standard. Also considering how long it has stood with unknown assembly compound you could have struggled to get oil pressure without a pre prime and damaged other surfaces in the process.  

May also be worth going the extra mile and addressing some of the inherent deficiencies , ie port alignment and balance etc while you are at it..     

Presumably all the studs are incorrect? They should be on the outer corners so you can get the nuts on easily? The parts manual isn't clear as it only shows one. Thanks for pointing this out. Please let me know if you spot anything else. Incidentally what sealant do you use for the core plugs? I'm not a fan of Wellseal. 

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position studs as pic

HPIM4165.thumb.JPG.66aea75b474fbdd1b6fcb0e54415287e.JPG

On core plugs I use loctite  572 ..

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Thanks Dave, you set the standard in that pic! 

Was that head Aqua blasted? 

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Well  that does it I'm stripping the head completely and aqua blasing after Inhave checked the valve guide tolerances and seats.

There's lot of measuring kit on the way!

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https://www.cranford-engineering.co.uk/

heres a link to Cranford Engineering. Very difficult in Surrey to get outstanding work done for sensible prices. I don't hesitate to recommend Paul, he's an excellent engineer and has helped a lot on this project. He is also excellent at cutting wheels. Andys Turbo wheels were done by him and they are simply stunning. 

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Thanks Dave, outstanding work!‘

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With ample respect for Dave's expertise I ask whether there should be concern for glass bead remnants in the fluid systems after a blasted part has been returned to service? A noted American authority instructed never to glass bead blast aluminum engine components as some beads would embed, resisting removal through cleaning only to dislodge and circulate after a number of heat cycles combined with engine vibration.

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Bauke, I like your work! Now have you got some cheap early wing mirrors to sell me? 

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Cheers for posting the head work Dave,  good option with the 8mm drill bit on the water jackets :thumbup:

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Essex front lips

If I get them remade does anyone want some? 

Engine Rebuild

Well all of the measuring equipment should arrive soon. I plan to dismantle the entire engine,(nearly done) and measure ,replace or repair everything. I will post all of the measurements on here, so that if anyone else is doing a rebuild they have some sort of guide as to what ball park the readings should be. It will also be a useful cross check as you have people like Dave on here to spot an issues and suggest things. At the end I'm hoping the engine will be ofvthe same standard as the rest of the car. 

Steve Fulcher has nearly completed my Turbo seats. The interior will be stunning in a different sort of way to the S1. There's something really special about the colour scheme. The pictures I post distort the colour and don't do it justice. The seats really are awesome judging by the stitched parts I have seen. A must in this sort of car to redo the seats when the storage has been suspect. At nearly 40 years old my leather was really shot. Although, I have seen other cars where it's fine. I suppose it's how the car has been looked after and stored. Leather needs feeding and care. 

Have a look at the Esprit trim on Steve's website!

http://www.coachtrimmer.co.uk/

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Good spot, it would be pissing out of there! 

Do you measure the liners and assess wear or justbreplace with new? 

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Check/replace (22mm) the core plugs on the exhaust manifold face carefully for the same reason, they are prone to corroding through         

Edited by 910Esprit
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Have removed pistons for measuring. Main crank endfloat 0.012 inches, out of spec! That means the crank is coming out. Took the rear crank cover off. New seal but RTV sealant used !??? Glad I have taken this to pieces. Whoever did it didn't read the manual! 

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34 minutes ago, Lotusfab said:

Have removed pistons for measuring. Main crank endfloat 0.012 inches, out of spec! That means the crank is coming out. Took the rear crank cover off. New seal but RTV sealant used !??? Glad I have taken this to pieces. Whoever did it didn't read the manual! 

What out for that end float as there was an issue with early cars' thrust bearing wear due to insufficient oiling. A Factory TSB describing a modification to either the main shell or casting parting line profile was distributed. I would appreciate a reminder as to the specifics of that Bulletin. 

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Hi Steve thanks. Yep, will need to check if a mod is required. Here's the bulletin.IMG_5983.thumb.PNG.68961a3ee43d8d194967dc44750e816e.PNGIMG_5984.thumb.PNG.39b612f4dd18ff4150276830b532978a.PNG

1 hour ago, drdoom said:

What out for that end float as there was an issue with early cars' thrust bearing wear due to insufficient oiling. A Factory TSB describing a modification to either the main shell or casting parting line profile was distributed. I would appreciate a reminder as to the specifics of that Bulletin. 

Will photograph the bearing when I get to it. Just waiting for a hex socket to get the oil strainer out. 

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Blimey Fabian you seem achieve more in a day than I manage in 6 weeks

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I've had a week off work. Will slow down a bit now!

The engine bits are so much quicker and easier than the body and Trim.

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Piston rings

Heres the piston as I took it off, the crankshaft and big end bearing.IMG_5988.thumb.JPG.cf2bfb59ea81617f60155f93e43de8d8.JPGdIMG_5991.thumb.JPG.662b92749811a3353e75c1c0958a2423.JPGIMG_5992.thumb.JPG.60fa6cad9b3e2266e7e6f31d1a93b671.JPGheres the manual for placement of piston ringsIMG_5993.thumb.PNG.16f7067740478add3787a9ab4bf0f238.PNGIMG_5994.thumb.PNG.2ebf3a2c7f4234f032627aee6ecfaafa.PNG  Can you see the issue, look carefully at the piston ring picture? The gap in the oil control ring can be seen clearly. The steel rail gaps should be set to 25 mm from this, well they aren't. Then look at the compression ring, it should be offset 120 degrees. Looks like a little oil on the piston head in 3/4. Maybe this is why? What is the analysis of the big end shells? I havn't measured any of this yet, but am getting a feel for what has been done - I'm not impressed. Why spend lots of money then do a sloppy reassembly? Never mind, I'm all over it now! My biggest issue at the moment is the wife has discovered her new pack of freezer bags is missing! Who could have taken them?😀😀😀😀😀IMG_5990.thumb.JPG.c7f518cfd7e38bea9114ffeb7289bbb6.JPG

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According to my receipts the main bearings, Con rods and piston rings are new. 

Does anyone have an opinion on the big end bearing in the picture?

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7 hours ago, Lotusfab said:

Does anyone have an opinion on the big end bearing in the picture?

Difficult to say from a pic, but that one looks fine.  However its not just how it looks, make sure its not one of the cheap 2 ply ally backed ones that are out there,  You are much better off with the proper 3 ply steel backed version..   The rest is down to measurements.  

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Thanks Dave will take it out check and measure.

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