free hit
counters
Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation - Page 154 - Esprit 'Project & Restoration' Room - The Lotus Forums Jump to content
Lotusfab

Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation

Recommended Posts

Great news Fabian ,   but your OCD will still continue lol :thumbup:

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.

One carb brass bits all cleaned up, you need compressed air and some very thin soft brass wire for cleaning. A sonic bath helps. Overall the sonic bath is a bit disappointing. The best result I got was soaking the parts in Cilet Bang for five minutes then rinsing after the sonic bath, they came up really well! Obviously the jets must be clean and clear. Only way is to used compressed air. Took quite a while to clean the parts to the required standard. Now the other carb to do! IMG_6248.thumb.JPG.b2951153753eb6bfcd6ff7f537c0796a.JPGTop bag is done, bottom to do!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks to our American connections and Thomas, the two aircon knobs are on their way! Rapidly traveling in the opposite direction is the graphic panel below, happy days!IMG_6253.thumb.JPG.11655d0b968480dc04df66618e081ff3.JPGso due to secondary dealings with Andy, who will be in possession of one of the knobs I have the correct and original graphic panel for my Bond car. 

I have managed to obtain the correct switches for the mirrors. Got one from Southwest Lotus centre and the aerial L/R  one from S and J, except its blank and listed for a later Esprit! . So I will use the blank for the aerial and the L/R for the mirror change over. My car should of had the earlier mirrors, don't know why it didn't. Maybe someone switched it out? Anyone a simple matter to upgrade the loom to click click mirror Ops. 

😀😀😀😀Thanks Thomas for getting fed up with my pleading! 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So I'm converting the mirror circuit from motor to solenoid. Here's the wiring diagrams.IMG_6194.thumb.PNG.31d607b33789dd829bd339d4d0b78463.PNGIMG_6261.thumb.PNG.7f3c935ba1f8f10a715268c5f98c7ad4.PNG

Simple matter to convert , but will have to change the colour coding.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Carbs

really the best place is Eurocarb. They now have an interactive diagram. You can pick the part, click on it and it will take you to the part. Quick and easy!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If I ever do another one it would be a JPS, but due to my finances I don't think there will be another unless I sell one of these. The trouble is once they are done I don't think I will be able to split them up, it's like having a pair of twins! It's been interesting getting parts, dealing with people all over the world, sometimes even using google translate!

I hope to complete this project this year and achieve the best copy of the Copper Fire car probably ever made. I'm really hoping to get both to the NEC for November. I don't know why but recently the progress on the Copper fire has almost ground to a halt. I keep finding myself driving all over the country to get parts or work done for it! Something has to give soon and it start to go back together. I have extensively checked the engine with PNM and have all the parts needed to reassemble. It's the prep work that takes the time. I never expected to be rebuilding the engine and carbs!

Still all in hand now. The wheel lips return polished in the next few days, about two weeks for the carb bodies and bearings. I like doing electrics so will get the wing mirror wiring sorted next. 

I have accumulated a lot if extra parts so will start selling some off I now have three graphic panels! 

Incidently the internal door handle surrounds are the same on the Scimitar and can bebboutbon ebay for £3.95! 

IMG_4087.thumb.PNG.378256cb37d50e308ab0675bbf2c828a.PNG

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Lotusfab said:

I'm looking forward to getting the new number plate on once it's been MOTD.

OPW 678X 

👍🏻

Nice! 😀

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I understand exactly what you mean. I like building things and a challenge and that really what restoring a Lotus is all about. I remember the models of these cars which I had when I was young. It seems very cool to me to make the real thing. I never thought I would ever own a James Bond car, let alone two, happy days!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

IMG_6278.thumb.JPG.99a214e34b389071e7d98e840533f8cd.JPGIMG_6277.thumb.JPG.538dc1559993e1be712d5d42fd3026fe.JPGSpent a lot of time cleaning, more to do. Quite a simple engine. The oil pump pressurises the area in the low picture. The oil flows through all the galleries to the bearing shells and head, I have cleaned all the oil ways with pipe cleaners and compressed air. IMG_6276.thumb.JPG.4b3a0d5e339ada6509db26041a2af00b.JPGSecond carb parts all cleaned and bagged up. 

Now need to reclean the head and all the other parts ready for engine reassembly.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So I'm nearly ready to install the crank. I will need to fix the main bearing housing back in. My question permabond 136 or Wellseal? Answers and opinions ASAP please.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Have you accessed all the area's of the longitudinal gallery, does not seem so in the pictures you have posted.. and very important , especially when cleaned with and media, like bead or aqua blasting .  It will be a bit late when the crank back in.   It is also worth removing all the head and MBH studs,  checking threads and re-torquing to spec..  The threads are rolled on these and there were some bad ones back in the early 80's with flat tops which eventually pulled out under load.. rare occurrence but I have experienced them so always check just to be sure.. Also if an engine has been previously worked on, you need to be sure they are fitted correct..    

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've cleaned all five galleries to the shells and the cylinder head oil gallery in the block. I didn't remove the plugs under advice from Pete. By longditudinal do you mean the plug one inthe centre to the middle bearing?

whats your take on the sealant please Dave. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
21 minutes ago, CHANGES said:

Have you accessed all the area's of the longitudinal gallery, does not seem so in the pictures you have posted.. and very important , especially when cleaned with and media, like bead or aqua blasting .  It will be a bit late when the crank back in.   It is also worth removing all the head and MBH studs,  checking threads and re-torquing to spec..  The threads are rolled on these and there were some bad ones back in the early 80's with flat tops which eventually pulled out under load.. rare occurrence but I have experienced them so always check just to be sure.. Also if an engine has been previously worked on, you need to be sure they are fitted correct..    

Hi Dave, do you use permabond 136 or Wellseal, thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, Lotusfab said:

I didn't remove the plugs under advice from Pete. By longditudinal do you mean the plug one inthe centre to the middle bearing?

That is fair enough ,  But I can not see how you can access all area's without removing them .   There are unseen pockets that can hold un- desirable matter if not accessed...   Different engine builders have different methods, you must follow the advise of your expert...     I use a loctite zero gasket, I think Peter uses the Red version ,  I would of thought he would have sold you some during your recent visit..  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I used nylon ties with the end bent and pipe cleaners and compressed air.The engine has been cleaned before so the block is pretty spotless. There was practically no dirt anywhere except the water gallery. This probably camevfrom the rad when I ran it for 20 mins as a test. Will have to give Pete a call and get some Loctite. What's the issue with permabond 136, seems to be for metal to metal joints?

Although I have to say I prefer to use whatvevryone else has already tested!

I didn't aqua blast the block. Just the head and bearing housings no intake manifold. It's going to take a while to clean the head! 

I spent ages cleaning the water gallery in the corner where the plug is, there was a lot of debris in there! 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The can see the engine is going to take me a lot longer to assemble than an expert. I have to triple check everything as I can't reassemble it from memory! 

I'm now counting the number if locating dowels, having looked it Up! 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 minutes ago, Lotusfab said:

I used nylon ties with the end bent and pipe cleaners and compressed air

Have a look at this pic , You will see there is a sizable pocket where all sorts of matter gathers..which can not be accessed any other way,   For the little time it takes to remove a couple of plugs I can not understand why any one would not..   Also the small plug on the fly wheel end will enable you to pull though the whole length of the gallery and crossing points.

HPIM0136.thumb.JPG.98747ff3bce6e987c38aa1d3b9275383.JPG   

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...