Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation

[910Esprit 394 1 Vehicles]

I also used a viscous coupling spanner (Ford)  - that's how I recalled it was 36mm

[Lotusfab 2,107]

Thanks Chaps. I've ordered a vintage flat spanner 36mm. Peanuts on eBay, hope it fits. Has anyone found a ring spanner solution for the half shaft rather than just making one? It would be very useful to have.

[Andyww 1,108]

Harry @dsvitesse1 makes and sells the special tools I believe.

They likely are pricey but its nice to have the proper tools. But then I am a tool junkie, I buy tools like my wife buys shoes and handbags.

[910Esprit 394 1 Vehicles]

2 hours ago, Lotusfab said:

Has anyone found a ring spanner solution for the half shaft rather than just making one? It would be very useful to have.

??? It just needs a 'boggo' large box spanner, I'll photogragh and measure size later.  The only 'tricky' tool is the one used for measuring pinion height 

[snowrx 77]

6 hours ago, Andyww said:

Harry @dsvitesse1 makes and sells the special tools I believe.

They likely are pricey but its nice to have the proper tools. But then I am a tool junkie, I buy tools like my wife buys shoes and handbags.

A fellow tool junkie!   Vice or Virtue, that is the question......

[snowrx 77]

When I saw this solution to the speedo nut, I wondered just how tight the bugger might be? 

You might custom grind a punch tip to get that deformed nut well clear of its keyway before giving it the twist.

[Lotusfab 2,107]

It's a worry if it's that tight! 

[Andyww 1,108]

19 hours ago, 910Esprit said:

??? It just needs a 'boggo' large box spanner, I'll photogragh and measure size later.  The only 'tricky' tool is the one used for measuring pinion height 

Are you referring to the same thing here, the bearing seems to be retained using a ring nut not a hex. This tool is shown in the parts book, although a piece of tube with cutouts at the end would likely work.

 

[Lotusfab 2,107]

There's a 46 mm nut in there and a ring nut, two tools.

So part 12 is 46 mm. Then part 10 is the ring nut.

I may not need to take out the secondary shaft as the gearbox has already been rebuilt. I just need to replace the third gear and maybe some of the rusted selector forks. Depends how they clean up.

[Andyww 1,108]

11 hours ago, Lotusfab said:

It's a worry if it's that tight! 

There is a fundamental error in the pictures though, the box cant be locked by engaging forward and reverse together  if the other shaft has already been removed!

[910Esprit 394 1 Vehicles]

Remove 11 & 19 then a large box spanner removes 12.   On every occassion I've done it the outside of my box spanner has also serendipitously backed off 10, which suggests its not particularly tight.  Alternatively, a tube with a couple of tangs cut with an angle grinder will get it separately .

[Lotusfab 2,107]

The play in onesid on mine may not be the bearing it might be the ring nut is loose allowing the bearing  to move. Will find out soon!

What engine oil is everyone using?

Like the tube idea.

[Andyww 1,108]

1 hour ago, Lotusfab said:

 

What engine oil is everyone using?

 

Crikey thats another 5 pages of discussion

Mobil 1 10w-60

[910Esprit 394 1 Vehicles]

Mobil 1 15/50 and was Millers 10/60 before then.    I'm not too precious.   Think any good quality oil regualrly changed will serve you well.   I'm still on std grind mains & bigends at 110K,  With pressure still well within spec.  Are you planning to run in using a std mineral oil?   If you have put new rings into 'old' bores, I personally wouldn't go straight onto a synthetic.     

[Lotusfab 2,107]

I was thinking mineral 20/50 before Andy mentioned synthetic. Would be interested in other views on this? 

[910Esprit 394 1 Vehicles]

I would go with your plan....

[Andyww 1,108]

Oh and Redline MTL in the gearbox. 

[ChrisJ 1,082 2 Vehicles]

Running in - Castrol Magnatec.

Once run in: Castrol Edge or Mobil 1.

Gerald @ GST had me run my Esprit on Magnatec for 10k before switching to fully synthetic to ensure everything was well imbedded. His reasoning was if you switch to fully synthetic too soon you run the risk of ending up with a "slow" engine. Currently part way through doing the same in my Excel.

 

 

[drdoom 169]

For seating new rings it's a non-synthetic oil wanted, with adequate zinc/phosphorous for tappet/cam protection. Also something like Graphogen on the lobes/tappets for start-up. If cams/tappets are not already run-in together ( i.e. either are new ) try not to let revs dwell below 2000 for at least the first 20 minutes of run time, all else permitting. Better to shut down for adjustments or to address leaks than it is to idle at normal revs. Break-in will be best enabled through driving ASAP, once all is known to be sound and safe for the road, and do not treat as fragile. Rather, give it some moderately brief cycles of Wellie to mid- level revs, lifting off smartly for cooling of interfaces before repeating after a respite. This puts the rings to work and then cools them in cycles thus enabling their bedding in. There is no reason why properly prepared bores/rings won't seat quite rapidly if driven as described above and, once done, it's fine to switch over to synthetic.

Most oils now have greatly diminished z/p to prevent premature catalyst degradation, so bear that in mind for your old era lump, which wants the z/p for tappet/cam longevity. Something greater than 1400ppm zinc is in order from the first fire-up, and do use synthetic once the rings have been run in. Stay with 50 hot viscosity, if not 60, so 10w-60, 15w-50, 20w-50 for example. To start select an oil suitable for break-in, drain after first run has at least ensured cam break-in then run another fill for several hundred miles and drain. Change the filters with each refill but do not discard until confident all is right with the engine, an examination of the entrails may be desired for diagnosis if something seems amiss.

Harry Martens has advised me to run Redline MT-90 in the new transaxle provided.

Cheers

[CHANGES 577]

5 hours ago, drdoom said:

For seating new rings it's a non-synthetic oil wanted, with adequate zinc/phosphorous for tappet/cam protection. Also something like Graphogen on the lobes/tappets for start-up. If cams/tappets are not already run-in together ( i.e. either are new ) try not to let revs dwell below 2000 for at least the first 20 minutes of run time, all else permitting. Better to shut down for adjustments or to address leaks than it is to idle at normal revs. Break-in will be best enabled through driving ASAP, once all is known to be sound and safe for the road, and do not treat as fragile. Rather, give it some moderately brief cycles of Wellie to mid- level revs, lifting off smartly for cooling of interfaces before repeating after a respite. This puts the rings to work and then cools them in cycles thus enabling their bedding in. There is no reason why properly prepared bores/rings won't seat quite rapidly if driven as described above and, once done, it's fine to switch over to synthetic.

Most oils now have greatly diminished z/p to prevent premature catalyst degradation, so bear that in mind for your old era lump, which wants the z/p for tappet/cam longevity. Something greater than 1400ppm zinc is in order from the first fire-up, and do use synthetic once the rings have been run in. Stay with 50 hot viscosity, if not 60, so 10w-60, 15w-50, 20w-50 for example. To start select an oil suitable for break-in, drain after first run has at least ensured cam break-in then run another fill for several hundred miles and drain. Change the filters with each refill but do not discard until confident all is right with the engine, an examination of the entrails may be desired for diagnosis if something seems amiss.

Harry Martens has advised me to run Redline MT-90 in the new transaxle provided.

Cheers

Quality post ,  well said that man..   

[Buddsy 1,456 1 Vehicles]

On 20/03/2019 at 10:53, Lotusfab said:

 I'm taking a break from this for a month or two and just doing small jobs here and there 

 

I have a small job for you....put the cam covers on the right way round 

 

buddsy

[Lotusfab 2,107]

4 hours ago, Buddsy said:

I have a small job for you....put the cam covers on the right way round 

 

buddsy

Well done, I was hoping someone would spot that!

[Lotusfab 2,107]

Happily they are just resting in there as I need to redo the oil filler cover. 

[Buddsy 1,456 1 Vehicles]

I guessed that was the case as your screws are missing from the end and are just placed in position. 

buddsy

[Paul Coleman 367]

On 19/03/2019 at 17:18, Lotusfab said:

The engine is nearly there just painting the covers in crinkle black.  

I hope they last longer than the ones I did for mine. After a while the paint flakes off and looks s**te. I recently had a pair powder coated with black crinkle which should cure the problem.