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Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation


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Plan B, the wife is going to help so tomorrow when the rain has stopped its going back in! Once its back in I’ll feel like I’m almost there about five months  since it went bang! 

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On 16/06/2019 at 23:05, Andyww said:

Using synthetic such as redline makes gearbox oil leaks worse.

I'd read that synthetic oil contains chemicals that causes rubber to swell so reducing leaks. When I filled the transmission on a Stevens' Esprit with Mobil synthetic the constant dip on the bottom of the box stopped. :thumbup:

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Cheers,

John W

http://jonwatkins.co.uk

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I have had the opposite experience when switching to Redline on my Esprit and Ferrari, although the shifting is much better on both.

It probably depends on where any leak is coming from. Not much rubber on these. The common factor on both is that I used Loctite 518 to seal both. The leaked fluid, which is not a lot of amount, is sticky and seems to contain 518 dissolved in it. Its a known issue that some sealants dont like the friction modifiers used in synthetic gear oils. 

Synthetic engine oils also tend to leak more readily through flange joints. 

I am planning to re-fit the Ferrari gearbox cover in the next few days using Permatex gear-oil resistant sealant, and see how that goes.

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3 hours ago, jonwat said:

The driveshaft oil seals are made of rubber.

OK I was thinking Viton but you could be right.

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For anyone who is interested this is how I set up the gearbox.

Selector fork 1/2 no gear synchro

with no synchro gauges I used the tool in the previous picture. The Ferrrari method won't work as the synchro touches the adjacent gear wheels when engaged. I kept adjusting the spacer tool and moving the fork until au had exactly the same clearance  on each side. Time consuming but effective.

4th gear stop adjustment

I found the synchro slider touched the 4 th gear pinion with slight pressure to the fork. So I spaced it at 0.5 mm as I consider Y in the calc yo be zero.(see manual)

reverse gear

The wording if the manual is wrong. All you need. To do is space the reverse idler gear 3 mm away from the 1st intermediate gear. I used a 3 mm shim.

now I'm setting the bearing one load on the drive shafts and the pinion backlash.

Im using a balance guage with the diff clamped in position and a piece of string( method 2 in manual). Then luckily I have a dial guage to measure the backlash. All in all a satisfying job. I am tempted to take apart my S1 gearbox and rebuild it , trouble is is working perfectly! I may rebuild it out of boredom when this car is done.

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IMG_7292.thumb.PNG.0c89713120fa0dd734702541cbbf8155.PNGO ring for this of 22 mm x 2.5 mm doesn't fit, the diameter is about right, but it's too thick at 2.5 mm. Now trying a 1.5.mm O ring. Plan tomseal,with silicon as well. 

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Don't tickle, paint!IMG_7318.thumb.JPG.ff2c7be779ee2421a916b9a85e787417.JPGthis is my Picasso! Tanks again!! About six times or more in and out, now they are perfect and I've switched back to the original connectors!

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DIFF in for pre load checks and backlash

IMG_7314.thumb.JPG.aed99db4eb90aa40d57a75357af065a0.JPGShims on each side press on the bearings when the half shafts are bolted on. By using a spring balance and different size shims you can set the amount the bearings are loaded. The backlash is set by chaging the position of the crown wheel relative to the pinion by changing the shims but keeping e preload the same. Move it to the right in the picture and the backlash increases. It needs the restored half shafts bolted on and clamping down before the calibration can start. 

I'm hoping, as someone has done this before the shims are already correct. If they arn't there will be a big delay whilst Inwait for shims!

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being pessamistic, the fact you have swapped out the original Polish (assuming they were the originals), for a different brand, also the material of the driveshaft housing gaskets materially affect the calcs. I would be expecting to require revised shims!  Also note you have some minor chipping on the edge of the crownwheel, I had this on one of crownwheels, but dont know what causes it.

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I wonder if the shims are common to other gearboxes? I might be able too getbto my local specialist and pick some up which would save a delay, if Inrequire them. 

Yep, have to fit the gaskets and half shafts for readings.

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When I fitted new carrier bearings, I was lucky enough to arrive at the proper preload setting by deleting the paper gaskets and using anaerobic sealant on the halfshaft flanges.  Doubt that would work out again though.......

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Starting to break the back of this, manifold now cooking in the wife's oven. Quite useful for curing paint! Should finish the fuel system tank bits today.

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Fuel pump

IMG_7326.thumb.JPG.6d82a52935543936cb71461c582f1fc2.JPGThree wires. Earth one to pump. Extra wire - does this bolt to the Chasis, says C2 on diagram. What is C2? Presumably the chasis?. Middle wire to pump from solenoid. Right wire is pink, not shown on circuit diagram, what's it for?

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Mmmm. Don’t remember a capacitor being fitted. In theory then the second earth wire via the capacitor to earth. The pink wire on the right comes out at the same point no n the loom. Maybe it’s for a secondary fuel pump for a later Esprit? Only pink I can find on the circuit is the resistance wire, which should not be here? 

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51 minutes ago, Lotusfab said:

Mmmm. Don’t remember a capacitor being fitted. In theory then the second earth wire via the capacitor to earth. The pink wire on the right comes out at the same point no n the loom. Maybe it’s for a secondary fuel pump for a later Esprit? Only pink I can find on the circuit is the resistance wire, which should not be here? 

I think its a pink wire that goes to the a/c compressor. Redundant if you don't have one.

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Fuel pump

IMG_7326.thumb.JPG.6d82a52935543936cb71461c582f1fc2.JPGThree wires. Earth one to pump. Extra wire - does this bolt to the Chasis, says C2 on diagram. What is C2? Presumably the chasis?. Middle wire to pump from solenoid. Right wire is pink, not shown on circuit diagram, what's it for?

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