Lotusfab 3,211 Posted June 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2019 Thanks, thats an excellent idea! I'll pump the oil in using the electric pump. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lotusfab 3,211 Posted June 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2019 Timing belt done! 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lotusfab 3,211 Posted June 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2019 I bought an undersheild on eBay about two years back. I never unwrapped it until now! Think I got lucky! Not so lucky on the car. Several rivnuts missing - I really hate them! Inlet manifold install today. For the exhaust stainless locking nuts and thickened washers. Have just ordered some Gates belts for the water pump and alternator. New inlet spacers all round. Will fit the carbs after the engine install.I decided to check the gearbox crown and pinion tooth contact point.I covered it in engineering blue. It's really difficult to see the contact points. You have to load the wheel to get a sensible reading. All at can say from this check is the pinion and crownwheel appear to be in the correct ballpark.I have a pattern which appears to match the top right. so I'm going to install it, see how it runs and sounds. Any issues the box is coming out again! Mysteriously the gear marking yellow stuff doesn't seem to be easily available in the UK. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lotusfab 3,211 Posted June 27, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2019 I've now replaced the rivnuts for the undersheild. I'm almost ready to install the new clutch and bolt it all together. I've been watching wheeler dealers Esprit episode to see how high I have to get the engine in! Doesn't seem too difficult, but I'll find out soon! 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Barrykearley 6,972 Posted June 27, 2019 Report Share Posted June 27, 2019 Use a tractor to drop the lump in 👍 2 Quote Only here once Link to post Share on other sites
snowrx 183 Posted June 27, 2019 Report Share Posted June 27, 2019 Almost this high, but with more angle! A chain hoist with load leveler helps a lot, but many have done it with a portable hoist. (ratty tiedown strap is not supporting the engine, just correcting a tilt to the side) 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
910Esprit 543 Posted June 28, 2019 Report Share Posted June 28, 2019 If possible, my other 'tip' would be to work outside. Infinite headroom and allows you to continually manouver car and crane as things progress. Picture above is a good illustration of how the gearbox hooks under the transom while the front of the engine clears the roof. NB Make sure the reverse light switch is removed before you start. I also prefer to fit without discs, but as above, its doable with them too. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lotusfab 3,211 Posted June 28, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2019 So I need to find a friendly farmer! I think working outside is a good idea. I think I will push the car out of the garage and put the hoist on the edge of the concrete floor. Then I should have the maximum headroom on the crane. I have an engine balancer any suggestions on where to bolt the chain on? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Barrykearley 6,972 Posted June 28, 2019 Report Share Posted June 28, 2019 It’s the best way 👍 1 1 Quote Only here once Link to post Share on other sites
Andyww 1,289 Posted June 28, 2019 Report Share Posted June 28, 2019 An Esprit guy I used to know, Bernard White, used to use a gantry crane. There is a little matter of needing the warehouse it fits in though. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
silverfrost 1,390 Posted June 28, 2019 Report Share Posted June 28, 2019 Sweet manifold on that lump Barry, is that an SJ product ? Quote A Link to post Share on other sites
Barrykearley 6,972 Posted June 28, 2019 Report Share Posted June 28, 2019 Alunox @silverfrost 👍 1 Quote Only here once Link to post Share on other sites
snowrx 183 Posted June 28, 2019 Report Share Posted June 28, 2019 Barry's a brave man on the hydraulics! I sweat the process enough with one hand on the chain and one on the engine suspended over the painted plastic, can't imagine doing it from the tractor cab. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
snowrx 183 Posted June 28, 2019 Report Share Posted June 28, 2019 11 hours ago, Lotusfab said: . I have an engine balancer any suggestions on where to bolt the chain on? I did not trust the engine not to move about using straps, so I made up tabs to bolt under the caliper mount bolts and one under one of the alternator mount bolts. If the turbo is mounted you might want to grab a bolt on the back side of the transaxle. The chains move about a bit as you tilt the motor, there's some trial and error. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Barrykearley 6,972 Posted June 28, 2019 Report Share Posted June 28, 2019 17 minutes ago, snowrx said: Barry's a brave man on the hydraulics! I sweat the process enough with one hand on the chain and one on the engine suspended over the painted plastic, can't imagine doing it from the tractor cab. One expert operator - one bloke either side of the car guiding that lump down Ps - I ain’t the operator 🤪 1 Quote Only here once Link to post Share on other sites
snowrx 183 Posted June 28, 2019 Report Share Posted June 28, 2019 I bolted an I-beam to my garage ceiling so I can use the cheap Chinese hoist and trolley. Pick it up, roll it back, lower it onto the engine stand. Luxury of a 10' ceiling, but if I had built it to 12' I could of had a lift...... 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lotusfab 3,211 Posted June 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2019 Well I was contemplating putting the engine and gearbox in separately, but I think you've shown me the way! I'm going for it very shortly! Just need to rivet on the undersheild retainer and the underside is finished! Curiously the original retainer seemed to be fitted with rivets and silicon? It's all coming together rapidly now. Once the engine is in tailgate and gear lever set up. Fuel, tuning, MoT and reg change to Bond number. The last job will be the skis and racks. I already have the design in my head. After many different ideas I have settled on metal construction with a fiberglass covering. Locking upper racks with the same external appearance as the originals. Wil get Paul at Cranford engineering to make them to my design and I will do the fiberglass work. I won't be making any other sets due to liability reasons. All I can say is they will be better than the film prop originals. Timing belt very easy to install when the engine is on a stand and someone lends you the correct tensioner guage(thanks Jerry!)! 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andyww 1,289 Posted June 30, 2019 Report Share Posted June 30, 2019 Yes that retainer on mine was riveted and siliconed. Its strange that they did such a good waterproofing job when there are huge gaping holes either side of the chassis backbone which the retainer simply jumps over. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
910Esprit 543 Posted June 30, 2019 Report Share Posted June 30, 2019 Dont be tempted - Its not any easier to do the engine & gearbox separately and its twice the work. Good luck with the installation! 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lotusfab 3,211 Posted July 2, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2019 Esso Urinex N3 This is the lithium based grade 3 grease recommended for the spigot bearing. I can't seem to buy grade three grease in the UK??? What has everyone else done? This grease is usually used on sealed for life bearings. I have ordered some from Germany, but I assume an equivalent grease must be available in the UK. I just can't locate it! N2 Moly grease is much more readily available. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
910Esprit 543 Posted July 2, 2019 Report Share Posted July 2, 2019 I've always just used standard high temperature lithium grease. My view is that the Nylatron washer effectively seals the bearing cavity airtight, so I think 'normal' grease will retain its lubricating property for a long time. Based on the mileage I do and periodical 'engine out' major overhauls, I've not detected any wear or deterioration in the bearing surfaces in over 40K of use. NB, the bearing has an outer cage and the nose of the input shaft is replaceable, so excessive wear would also be salvageable. As you say, I assume the grease originally specced, would effectively be for a new car 'lifetime' service interval. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lotusfab 3,211 Posted July 2, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2019 Thanks Steve. I have manage: to source grade three grease now but it wasn't easy! I have finally cleaned up the clutch components. I'm not happy with them. I have a new drive plate. There is a slight pitting on the flywheel and pressure plate surface. The flywheel can be ground, so I guess I need a new pressure plate. Althougbthe release bearing turns freely it noisy and has a little too much play for my liking. Money pit come to mind! To top it all the gates alternator belt I bought(same as the one I removed) is too short. Never trust anyone who's been working on a car before you! Has anyone got the gates belt number for the alternator? Thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lotusfab 3,211 Posted July 2, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2019 Well no use bitching. When you have to build you have to build! I have cleaned and examined the clutch components. My assessment is the release bearing is original. It's still smooth, but not perect so it's got to go. There is slight pitying on the pressure plate - that's got to go! The clutch plate is new. The flywheel teeth are perfect, but also slight pitting. That can be resurfaced so it's off to my favourite engineer. Paul at Cranford engineering in Leathrhead. He's about the only person I trust to carry out my engineering jobs! All the pressure plate bolts are being replaced and the cranckshaft bolts fitted with Loctite. Then I'm replacing the spigot bearing with a new one and a spacer made by S and J, that stops the bearing pushing into the crank. Essential unless you take the risk of the clutch shaft drilling the side of the crank. I also have a new Nylatron washer. The pressure plate is the later round finger type with the flat release bearing. The Clutch shaftbis also the later one with the metal reinforcement sleeve. Basically im replacing all of it! It better drive like New as most of it is new! Ive had to watch FYEO to get some motivation. Maybe if Carole Bouqet turned up I might get more enthusiastic! This has been a long journey! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lotusfab 3,211 Posted July 2, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2019 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gis 213 Posted July 2, 2019 Report Share Posted July 2, 2019 32 minutes ago, Lotusfab said: ve had to watch FYEO to get some motivation. Maybe if Carole Bouqet turned up I might get more enthusiastic! This has been a long journey! 😄I’ll do that as well at times Fabian and I’ve only been at it a couple of years now. Nothing compared to you. The old girl keeps me off the couch and doing her type of yoga. Add Singapore heat and humidity to it for extra flavour. Masochism in a way but I still like it. My neighbours have declared me crazy some time ago. Who cares, they don’t get it.. It’s the journey, not the destination. The destination will be epic with your car. Can’t wait to see it finished. 1 Quote Ad initium Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.