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Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation - Page 179 - Esprit 'Project & Restoration' Room - The Lotus Forums Jump to content
Lotusfab

Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation

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Thanks Steve. Mmm, you've got me thinking??? The rear of the clip  is curved which sits in the curve at the back of the fork. The u part of the clip as far as I can see fits in the cutout so it can't move position. I could be wrong though! I will take a close up and ask Steve at S and J. 

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Thanks a lot Steve, the other Steve at S and J has confirmed I got the clips 180 degrees out. So if I rotate the release bearing 180s and the end of each clip goes into the cutout that is the correct way to fit! Good job I hadn't attached the gearbox! Saved by the forum again!

Ive decide to install the engine and gear bid separately. Why? Keep the wait down, give more clearance and allow me to stand in the engine bay and assemble the carbs etc. I will support the engine underneath with axel sands and a block of wood. Gearbox in after! 

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I have only done this once many years ago and having done it as one lump I can see the attraction of doing them separately.

But on the other hand virtually everyone on the forums advises not to put in separately :)

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Yep the manual advises to do it as a lump as well. I think if your doing it in your own you might as well do it separately as it will be easier. I let everyone know if it's a disaster! 

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18 minutes ago, Andyww said:

But on the other hand virtually everyone on the forums advises not to put in separately

That would be my advice and I've done both options more than once....  You will find that once you have the engine in place, the clearance for the gearbox is not increased and you then have to manage the critical alignment of the input shaft without messing anything up.  Trust the manual...

NB - I've only ever installed/removed single handed

 

Edited by 910Esprit
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Mmmm, I'm now having second thoughts! Just seems to be pretty big to guide in on your own without trashing the paint!

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I've always managed to avoid it, but would recommend placing  carpet over the rear deck and the back of the roof while you are doing it.   I was always woried about losing the Nylatron washer on the back of one of the clutch fingers while doing the inevitable tooing & frooing while fitting the box separately  -The only reason I've ever done this was to remove/replace just the gearbox and it seemed significantly more difficult to me.

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8 minutes ago, Lotusfab said:

Mmmm, I'm now having second thoughts! Just seems to be pretty big to guide in on your own without trashing the paint!

Lots of thick blankets covering it all secured in place with tape. ☺

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Cheers,

John W

http://jonwatkins.co.uk

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Ok plan B. I'm missing a locator dowel which hasn't come yet. I will mate the gearbox and try lifting as one. I'll then split it afterwards just enough to put the dowel in!

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41 minutes ago, Lotusfab said:

Ok plan B. I'm missing a locator dowel which hasn't come yet. I will mate the gearbox and try lifting as one. I'll then split it afterwards just enough to put the dowel in!

Personally I'd wait. You're just making work for yourself. What's the rush?

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Three years and counting! 

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Exactly. A few days won't make any difference, but rework is a waste of time and effort.

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23 hours ago, Lotusfab said:

Ok plan B. I'm missing a locator dowel which hasn't come yet. I will mate the gearbox and try lifting as one. I'll then split it afterwards just enough to put the dowel in!

There's a good chance the Nylatron washer will fall off when you retract the gearbox and if you're only pulling out enough to insert the dowel you won't know if it still on or not. When I removed mine it fell between the flywheel and friction plate. 

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Having done it, my take. 

If your on your own with a garage height if 2.1 meters get a helper, or put it in separately. Get a long reach crane, leveller and two strops. We had to remove the rear bumper and take the wheels off to clear the rear spoiler. Once clear we used the leveller to tilt the engine to get it in. Wasn't  that difficult with two people and some decent kit. I put a tiny drop of superglue the secure the Nylatron washer to the end of the clutch shaft just enough,  so it would fall off when fitting. Dowel installation after! 

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Wouldn't fall off! 

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Well dowel is fitted, easy. Biggest mistake I made in this build. Not fitting the thin head gearbox mounting bolts before the seuspension arms! I have just taken apartvthe entire neaside suspension and still have to do the offside. It all has to come apart to remove the arm! 😡😡😡😡😡😡

my next problem the clutch arm seems to be a very long way back before the release bearing engages!IMG_7632.thumb.JPG.08491d4d92ccd4b7791fa352f4e66394.JPG

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4 minutes ago, Lotusfab said:

Well dowel is fitted, easy. Biggest mistake I made in this build. Not fitting the thin head gearbox mounting bolts before the seuspension arms! I have just taken apartvthe entire neaside suspension and still have to do the offside. It all has to come apart to remove the arm! 😡😡😡😡😡

Can you not just remove the gearbox mounts by the two small hex head bolts, insert bolt and replace? 

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That's a very good Idea I should be able to get at the bolts! Wish I thought of that! Does the clutch arm look like it engages where yours does? 

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Not sure but with the new clutch problems I've had I wouldn't rely on anything from my car in that respect! ☺

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I remember the clutch arm was in the same position before. Problem is it doesn't look correct and I thought that then. I'll know when an fit the pushrod. 

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54 minutes ago, Lotusfab said:

Well dowel is fitted, easy. Biggest mistake I made in this build. Not fitting the thin head gearbox mounting bolts before the seuspension arms! I have just taken apartvthe entire neaside suspension and still have to do the offside. It all has to come apart to remove the arm! 😡😡😡😡😡😡

 

But you can do that when you remove the gearbox mounting brackets from the gearbox which you have to do to fit the fixed part of the caliper to them (I think).

The mountings would have to come out also. But disconnecting the lower links is not difficult is it? Just take the bolt out.

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I found the lower link arm bolt wouldn't go back in with any amount of jacking because of tension on it from the hub carrier I will try the  next one buy jacking up the gearbox and engine and trying to get a spanner in to remove the mount,.its a bit tight just above the arm!

I've now lost the clutch adjusting screw and lock nut that holds the pushrod! 

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