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Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation - Page 180 - Esprit 'Project & Restoration' Room - The Lotus Forums Jump to content
Lotusfab

Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation

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Well second gearbox mount done in 1 hr! Thanks Steve, great idea! 

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Quite a bit done today. Have almost sorted the gear shift. Just need to get the pushrod sorted with a rose bearing and adjust the crossgate cable. The cooling pipes at the front of the engine are a real pain. They are difficult to access an the water pump one is so close to the camwheel. I'd say it was about 5 mm away. It needs holding back with cable ties. The engine mounting bolts re 12 mm part threaded. I'm still waiting for some new bolts to arrive. I also fixed the wastegate and new turbo pipe. I'm having trouble sourcing the correct union for the clutch cable. It's a PNM cable but a landrover cylinder with 7/8 thread. Just need to find out what the PnM bit is. 

Andy idea, a big improvement t in the original.IMG_7638.thumb.JPG.82803f4a0924746444a7f8ab357564bd.JPG

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Ok all the behind the scenes stuff is complete. Now the problem of pipe routing. In particular if any one has pics please post them! Vacuum pipe, servo pipe clutch pipe speedo brake cables etc.IMG_7642.thumb.JPG.58ff9a026d3466071408cb3ba51a32dc.JPG

IMG_7644.thumb.JPG.cf5d2fd3e42bceb84eb15a1eed9c39f4.JPGOk all the behind the scenes stuff is complete. Now the problem of pipe routing. In particular if any one has pics please post them! Vacuum pipe, servo pipe clutch pipe speedo brake cables etc.IMG_7642.thumb.JPG.58ff9a026d3466071408cb3ba51a32dc.JPG

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Having problems getting the gear to work properly. At the moment you can select them all including reverse without lifting the stick! if I adjust them to work the gear lever will sit to the right and nit verticle when it's in neutral! 

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Gear selector

Well I have spent several days trying to sort this and so far have failed. I think I have discovered why. I post my take on it here to save time for anyone else who has issues. 

I could get all gears at the start, but then was fooled into thinking I was in fifth and reverse when in fact I was moving the selector to the right and in 3/4 th! This happened because I was looking through the bulkhead at the gearbox shaft and couldn't see clearly how far over it was. This wasted time and money.

Well the solution was very simple. Select 1/2 the shaft is then the furthest into the gearbox. Place some blue marking tape around the selector shaft to mark this position. When you select 3/4 the shaft moves out about 10 mm - easily seen as the space between the masking tape and the gearbox body. Then 5 th it move out about 10 mm more and a little more for reverse. When you look at the tape through the bulkhead you can easily see which gear is selector by the blue tape gap tomthe gearbox. This is how I discovered my error. 

Before you adjust the crossshaft make sure the pivot is in the verticle position when the gearselector is in neutral. I found this affected the crossgate because my gear lever was sitting further away from the step plate so the spiro pin could flex more than it should. Like all these things experience would make this an easy job. Of if you have two people with one watching the cross shaft.

set pivot to verticle.IMG_7660.thumb.PNG.6d7e43b2101b5763eb5631a28b3e2c78.PNGput tape on crossshaft

 

 

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2 hours ago, Lotusfab said:

Gear selector

Well I have spent several days trying to sort this and so far have failed. I think I have discovered why. I post my take on it here to save time for anyone else who has issues. 

I could get all gears at the start, but then was fooled into thinking I was in fifth and reverse when in fact I was moving the selector to the right and in 3/4 th! This happened because I was looking through the bulkhead at the gearbox shaft and couldn't see clearly how far over it was. This wasted time and money.

Well the solution was very simple. Select 1/2 the shaft is then the furthest into the gearbox. Place some blue marking tape around the selector shaft to mark this position. When you select 3/4 the shaft moves out about 10 mm - easily seen as the space between the masking tape and the gearbox body. Then 5 th it move out about 10 mm more and a little more for reverse. When you look at the tape through the bulkhead you can easily see which gear is selector by the blue tape gap tomthe gearbox. This is how I discovered my error. 

Before you adjust the crossshaft make sure the pivot is in the verticle position when the gearselector is in neutral. I found this affected the crossgate because my gear lever was sitting further away from the step plate so the spiro pin could flex more than it should. Like all these things experience would make this an easy job. Of if you have two people with one watching the cross shaft.

set pivot to verticle.IMG_7660.thumb.PNG.6d7e43b2101b5763eb5631a28b3e2c78.PNGput tape on crossshaft

 

 

Sorry the spiro pin bit is wrong, I've had a think.  It wasn't sitting further away from the plate because it's attached to it! I had insufficient movement of the gear lever which I now believe was partly due to the lever sitting at the wrong point in the crank arm and I also noticed a pivot bolt was loose on the pivot arm. I was missing a 7 mm nut and hadn't realised it had come out slightly from the pivot arm. 

I still suggest setting the pivot arm correctly before adjusting the crossgate.

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IMG_0415.thumb.jpg.ba4eb3b0f7dae78020d8846255bbb022.jpgI believe because this was not seated correctly and was able to move slightly it changed the distance the lever moved across the step plate. The loose pivot bolt making adjustment random and impossible. I've fixed that now after having shortened the push rod to a point I have to get another one! I anticipate when I attempt this again it will be quite straightforward now I understand how it works and the pivot arm and pivot bolts are all correct.

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Please consider either backlighting or spotlighting the engine area 😆 

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Discs Rear

I cleaned them up and found they were scored and pitted. So a new set arrived from PNM next day delivery. The old ones have a number on them, which helps when ordering B079J4000F (early type). I'm still fitting the brake callipers.

The driveshaft shims were installed incorrectly - behind the disc, so I have corrected that!

Turbo

well you may remember I rebuilt it about three years ago, I didn't balance the shaft. This  has always been nagging at me. I finally caved in and took it to a Turbo specialist near Guildford. It's been tested and the shaft was out of balance! Anyway they are sorting it!

Exahaust

Whilst the originals are intact the flexible connectors look like hey have gas leaks. So I have a new Stalinless exhaust from S and J, just need to fit. No point in scrimping the new exhaust will last another forty years! 

I found a problem with the carb tops, they were loose with the screws fully tightened?? Obvious reason screw too long, only problem is they weren't! IMG_7689.thumb.JPG.617adcab495df03e07ffb5c57e1eab49.JPGI then took it apart and realised the  top covers are threaded as is the body. The new screws were fully threaded, so were  never going to tighten up. All I can assume is Dellorto threaded the cover so the screws would not fall out when taking them apart. The only way this  could work is with a part threaded screw. I contacted  Eurocarb who were very helpful. They said they had never gone across thus before, but managed to find an original screw and sure enough it was part threaded. They measured the screw and I located the old screws which I kept. I then used a dremmel to remove the upper thread from the new screws to match, job done! 

Choke lever and connection now installed and all working. I had to remove the cement guns from the choke lever, it would have been far to messy and not helped cold starting! 😄😄😄

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IMG_7697.thumb.PNG.3558a51a0072182d46ee66a8cb8f180d.PNGRoger Moore actuating the cement guns! Yes I have lots of interesting pictures!! 

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1 hour ago, Lotusfab said:

so the screws would not fall out when taking them apart.

Yes thats true.

Brakes - Have you had a dial guage on your rear discs?   I generally struggle to get them in tolerance by luck!

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Hi Steve, I have new rear discs what dial guage adjustments are you referring too please? I can't find much in the manual.

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Hi Fabian.  Max runout is specified in the manual as 3.5 thou.    So if you rotate the fitted disk at its rim  you can measure the run out.   If within tolerance all fine, otherwise,  I start by checking the disk is true by placing the hub side on a surface plate and check the disk at the rim at 3 points adjacent to the mounting holes).   I also remove the 3 studs of the the gearbox output shaft to ensure that is running true.   If I cant find an optimum position from the 3 permutations, I shim one of the mounting studs.    Of course the whole thing is a faff as you need to keep removing/refitting/retorquing the disk & driveshaft adaptor.   But its worth doing it properly and I have found that the standard Turbo brakes can be subject to judder if not carefully set up.       

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Thanks Steve.

Gear selector

well I thought I had this beat. I made a new pushrod and despite all the adjusting was unable to get reverse. So I disconnected the pushrod and manually tried. It would not engage. I tested it prior to installation and it worked  perfectly. All I can assume is now the clutch is connected the engine is preventing rotation of the shaft and because reverse has no synchro it needs a depressed clutch so the shaft can rotate slightly for reverse to engage. Any thoughts? Can anyone get reverse consistently without depressing the clutch? 

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Well this is annoying. Clutch working perfectly with fluid. Unable to select reverse manually direct from the selector shaft. I tested it before and could easily get all gears. 😡😡😡😡😡😡

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Will have to put a borescope inside the fille hole and take a look. 

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Well I can't get the angle on the borescope. So this only leaves taking the top of the gearbox off. I think it's unlikely now the clutch works that the gear is fouling on the idler gear. It all worked when I put it in. Now it's impossible to get reverse. Something has changed. I can feel the selector is in the reverse gate, but the reverse selector shaft won't move. Why? Well all I can  think is the selector fork has moved, or the shaft is ceased? Any thoughts before I take it apart? 

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A pal found that the selector fork had bent in some way which caused this same problem. However in his instance he thinks it had been forced post rebuild. Which is probably unlikely in your case. Good luck. Sounds like a nightmare.

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Thanks chaps. Will fix it and report the solution.

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23 hours ago, jonwat said:

It's possible the gear teeth are meeting head on, try turning the engine a little to move them. :ermm:

This seems possible but begs a question. If the clutch is depressed the idler gear should be free to rotate. Surely the reverse should engage? If it doesn't then what stops this situation occurring when you drive the car? My S1 always engages reverse easily, engine running or not. When I tested it reverse was always easily selected. I believe I can feel the selector shaft move into the reverse gear shaft selector, butbthen it doesn't move which would be explained buy the gear teeth on the reverse and idler gear not meshing. Not a good design really. Would have thought the teeth were shaped to allow the gears to mesh?

I may have got lucky and the idler gear stoped in the million to one position where the gears won't mesh!

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