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Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation - Page 183 - Esprit 'Project & Restoration' Room - The Lotus Forums Jump to content
Lotusfab

Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation

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Have you considered the VW Passat rear caliper modification discussed elsewhere on the forum? Not strictly original but more obtainable and a better handbrake function I believe.


Not worth starting anything now...🍺

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Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.

Can't believe after more than three years I'm still working on it! 

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Anyone got a link to the calipers?  If so how is the handbrake cable modified?

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The mystery of the Pink/White wire

Do you have a stray pink/white wire that exits the loom and heads outside of the loom to the Molex ignition harness connector? 

I believe early cars have it and later I was removed. I have measured its resistance against a pink resistive wire. It appears to be the same. It seems to fulfill the same purpose as a Ballast resistor reducing voltage atbthe coil for constant running. It's crap! I've cut it off and will emulate Andy with a modern Ballast resistor. I believe it was placed outside of the harness as it gets very hot! 

Well what do all the other wires do? Simple.IMG_7845.thumb.JPG.008c56c18dd7346a6625fdbc4a8b4e4a.JPGyellow and white goes to the ignition solenoid. When the red white wire at the starter is energised the yellow white gets the full battery voltage and transfers it to the coil. So higher start voltage at coil when ignition key is in the start position. When the key is released the voltage on the yellow/ white wire drops to zero. You could not reliably run the coil with the full voltage, as it would get too hot and fail, so for constant running voltage to the coil is reduced by a resistor( potential divider circuit) for the electronic people out there. This is achieved by the pink /white wire or a Ballast resistor. Later cars it seems dont have the resistive wire. 

So the white wires are the ignition. I cut the pink wire out,as it's rubbish. I will now connect a Lucas Ballast resistor to the white wires then the coil. The screen red wire is the tacho wire. It wasn't working on this car as some idiot had not connected it! In fact they cut the pink wire and connected it directly to the ignition. Then made an awful earth connection to the gearbox. I wish people would leave things alone that they don't understand. Like Einstein said if you can't explain something simply you don't understand it! I interpret this as if you don't connect wires you don't understand what they do! 

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14 hours ago, Lotusfab said:

Bolt by bolt! 😩😩😩😩Test fits! IMG_7839.thumb.JPG.9e25c4629baa809dbd50084edebc2756.JPG

Fabian, the braided fuel hoses to the pressure regulator. Are they secured with jubilee clips with the red, anodised cover just for show? If so, they were notorious for leaking & responsible for many fires. :shock: 

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Cheers,

John W

http://jonwatkins.co.uk

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Hi John, thanks for the info.  I got them in a kit from PNM. I was thinking of a switch to rubber might be better. Trouble is this is what they had originally.

I will be fitting an extensive fire extinguishing system as per my S1, just in case! 

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Fabian,  engine bay looks stunning,  but as John said,   some decent aero quip connections would be better to stem the risk of a fire,  a fire system will not always put out the fire sadly from what i have heard ! 

  Not sure what the brass slip on connections are like on the FPR,  can they be removed and replaced with male to female unions to fit aero quip connections  ? 

 

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A

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Thanks, I'll investigate this further. If this car burns I will develop serious mental issues! 

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26 minutes ago, silverfrost said:

 

  Not sure what the brass slip on connections are like on the FPR,  can they be removed and replaced with male to female unions to fit aero quip connections  ? 

 

No they are permanently attached to the FPR. Its not ideal but dont see any alternative. There is an even worse connection on the metal cross pipe which has straight cut-off ends.

Braided hose is generally used where there is risk of abrasion, thats probably why they used it originally but does have the issue whereby you cant see what condition the hose under the braiding is in. But all new hoses remove this as a risk at least for the forseeable future.

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No, it's a generic Ballast coil.

If NASA need any heat sheilding they should call me!IMG_7847.thumb.JPG.e037e412da03965786c73bc24581a968.JPG

Now I've upgraded to a high torque starter the alternator wire is too short!IMG_7848.thumb.JPG.b22244908156c7fb3d61e6f0f8206c02.JPGIMG_7849.thumb.JPG.0a9f59a83458405e4bb68f63b6131763.JPG 

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The older Lumenition needs ballast coil and a resistor. I think the ones they currently sell can be used with a non-ballast coil and no resistor.

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Turbo fitting

So the Turbo Outlet rotates IMG_7850.thumb.JPG.292749933cf144bb11a44b0e7b3481be.JPG can get the best position. Roatate it by slackening the lock nuts. what are these copper rings for? I can only find reference to gaskets. This is a generic gasket set so perhaps they are nit required?

 

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Just checked again. The ignition has Ballast written on it. Presumably its a Ballast coil which requires a Ballast resistor.

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40 minutes ago, Lotusfab said:

Turbo fitting

So the Turbo Outlet rotates IMG_7850.thumb.JPG.292749933cf144bb11a44b0e7b3481be.JPG can get the best position. Roatate it by slackening the lock nuts. what are these copper rings for? I can only find reference to gaskets. This is a generic gasket set so perhaps they are nit required?

I think they are for a water cooled Turbo.

 

 

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Brakes

Well I have completed the rear driver side caliper installation. The passengers side continues to be a problem. The latest delay the wrong seal kit has arrived! I'm not sure whether or not the caliper ratchet is worn or just not operating correctly. The only way I can be sure is to dismantle the rear driver side and examine it, as it's working! 

My next problem is the coil box. I am stumped as to how it attaches to the the surround. I'm staring to think I have e wrong parts. When I bought the car none of this was assembled. I knew it would be too easy if this went back together smoothly!

Im nearly there but these cars don't give up easily, meanwhile the till keeps ringing

,as I head into the stratosphere costswise! Building a Bond car is anything but cheap! Then when add in the FYEO Seiko and outfit! 

If anyone has any 1982 coil box picture that might help! Thanks.IMG_7854.thumb.JPG.84e866258aa210352249e1f69b4605d6.JPG

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I ordered the complete sealkits from SJ and only the actual piston seal was correct. All the others were just a random collection of parts which bore no relation to the calipers.

I phoned them and they said they cant get the correct parts, so they refunded the difference between the complete kit and the piston-only kit and I had to put the old ones back on the handbrake mechanism.

 

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Ahh, that's what's happened to me. I bought a new kit from somewhere a year back, but the large round handbrake mechanism seal has split.

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I am no convinced the coil box is not correct. Can anyone confirm this with some pics of the correct one?

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Thanks Richard. That confirms it. The coil box is all wrong. My next problem has been found! Anyone got a coil box to sell? 

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