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Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation


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On both Esprits I have owned I had water circulation issues but on the current car when I rebuilt the cooling system I bought a pressure test kit.

I found several leaks using the kit which I fixed and once the system held air for several hours I then filled it up and had no issues at all.

Any leaks will tend to suck air into the system. 

The way I used the kit was when empty, and if the pressure guage didnt hold, I brushed soapy water all over every joint and looked for bubbling. Very effective method because once it holds air it will definitely hold water.

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Well Ingive up! I have jacked this up both ways spent three hours trying to get circulation. My technical analysis its FF...d!

well three possible problems...

the thermostat is broken

the plumbing is wrong

or the radiator is blocked.

(the pump was rebuilt and tested by PNM, so no worries there)

I have fixed all the leaks. 

 

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Have you taken into account the heater matrix? It sits higher than the radiator and cooling pipes.

Often on other cars this has to be on (open) I believe, when maintaining the coolant system.

Just a thought.

BTW I had no such problems with this S1. I expecting a right faff.

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Fabian, 

Have you checked the coolant return from the header tank to the water pump area ?   A blockage in this is possible if you have been painting things and will result in boiling over !    Make sure you have flow or the expansion has no where to go and boils like a kettle  ! 

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A

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59 minutes ago, Lotusfab said:

I would guess the thermostat isn't working. 

Could be. there is a bypass pipe which means if the thermostat is closed there is a very short circuit, you could feel this pipe and check if its hot. Also is the thermostat plumbed in the right way. The two pipes which line up with each other are the main flow, and the angled side pipe is the bypass which should be pointing up/sideways.

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Temperature guage

Well this has got me thinking. There are several possibilities as to why it is 30 degrees out. Could be the regulator so the voltage is wrong. Could be the sender. Could be the instrument or could be the resistance of the earth wire to the sender?  Will have to eliminate each part of this system. If anyone has a detailed circuit that might be of use?

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1 hour ago, Lotusfab said:

It's possible to calibrate the temp and fuel guage with the correct tool. There are calibration voltages.IMG_0139.thumb.PNG.472faa419c055530a47ae1f7d64e8aaf.PNG

I've read that our gauges should run at 10v? Apparently the original voltage stabiliser switches off and on to regulate an average 10v from 12v over a period of time which isn't ideal. I've ordered one of these more modern variants to see if it helps my erratic fuel gauge. 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F282642726457

 

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Yep I think the operating voltage is 10 v. I just bought a new smiths voltage regulator. I haven't checked my gauge yet for dots?IMG_0141.thumb.PNG.1229d7528a85d52c18c37c931ee9c0a7.PNGIMG_0142.thumb.PNG.3d22a55656ce021dfc6526deab64cfe4.PNG but apparently there are dots on the face. I assume the calibration on ours is the same ? The test voltages correspond to the dots. The instrument can be adjusted with a calibration tool. I may make one. I'm only interested in an accurate 80 to 90 degrees range. If can get this correct that should suffice. Maybe the sender is broke so will try that first. Here's what  the tool looks like, quite easy to make.

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I would think the most likely cause would be either the voltage reg is stuck so its giving the full 12V all the time or the sender is the wrong one. There are many types of these, all different.

I could run mine up to temp and measure the sender resistance if that would help.

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On 21/09/2019 at 02:08, Lotusfab said:

The only problem the calibration voltages may differ. Doesn't really matter as I'm 30 degrees off! I can in theory set it to read 80 exactly. Then the rest is a hot cold indicator.

Fair enough but in the event you are stuck out somewhere on the road and watching the needle swing one way or the other you might wish to have calibrated it properly. There are firms who specialize in this.

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Tailgate lock

Had to take the rear spoiler off again. The boot locks on these cars are a very poor design. They are very difficult to access. The lever connected to the lock has a single screw. Only problem is getting a screwdriver on it through a tiny slit which is offset. You really must fit this before the spoiler goes on. Which means you have to know where the lever points inside!

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Ok , finally the boot lock is sorted and rear spoiler back on with all lights working. Now on to the lower spoiler where a rivnut has a bolt broken off! I thought I had done all of these! I have painted the black in above the bumper.

Smithy111 gave me a new temperature sender. I just tested it. The readings are the same as before. So voltage regulator next and then instrument calibration,  if the regulator doesnt fix it. I cant face doing the tailgate at the moment. Theres a lot of work needed on that! 

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