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Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation


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Thanks Dave. Nearly there on the tuning its within 3 mm but I want it spot on. Morgan carbtune, I had a lot of practice!   Slight oil leak form the rear cam cover on the inlet, easily fixed. I should

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14 hours ago, Lotusfab said:

Middle red the stop Light?

It is. Unless you want to have twin stop/tail lamps using the inner red fog for a stop/tail as well. I have it wired that way on my Stevens for the US 'Pretty Woman' look. The fog still works as a fog too so you don't lose any lights.

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Not worth starting anything now...🍺

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4 hours ago, eeyoreish said:

It is. Unless you want to have twin stop/tail lamps using the inner red fog for a stop/tail as well. I have it wired that way on my Stevens for the US 'Pretty Woman' look. The fog still works as a fog too so you don't lose any lights.

Yeah, as Neil says. A great deal of water has flowed under the bridge since I was at work on mine but now prompted by his remarks I can recall mine are wired for brake on both inner and middle sections.

Cheers

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Thanks Steve. I checked the wiring diagram but just wanted to confirm. 

Coolant

I have the age old problem of air in the cooling system. I thought I had got it all out. But then when I opened the bleed on the top of the radiator, there was still more air!  It took me ages to get my S1 air free! I have balanced the engine quite well but there's always room for improvement. I will have another go tomorrow and refine it even further. 

 The fan controller doesnt seem to be working. The thermostat should switch on the fans at about 90 degrees. Nothing! Quite annoying as it's new! But of course there may not be enough circulation in there. I would expect the temp on one of these in operation to be around 90-100 degrees. Mine was at 110. What's everyone else operating at?  Of course the temp indicator may be inaccurate. I think I may measure it with a thermometer. 

It's drivable now. Just needs the engine bay surround and tailgate fitting. Then there's a lot of detailing and the rear gold decals to apply.

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Mine indicates less than 90 on a run (regardless of speed)  I get paranoid if it gets any higher than mid 90s!   (but thats not to say all guages and senders read the same).   

Bear in mind it will tend to run hotter if you have fitted new rings/pistons/liners.   I also think that 110 is far too hot  (if accurate).    

While the engine is running, go around the car and repeatedly violently squash as many hoses as you can get your hands to - e.g. to 'burp' the cooling system.

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Jack the back end up and fill/bleed the system and run with the cap off to clear all the air only way ive found that works well. Have you bridged the two spade connectors that go to the fan thermostat to test the electrical circuit is ok? and check/reset the otter thermal cut out on the left front wheel arch?

Since sorrting the cooling system on mine it runs at about 88o (checked with 3 different electronic thermal probes). Fan stat should cycle fans on at 92o and off at 82o (green dot for temperate climates) Also check if yours has the revised curved pipe inverted so the fan stat should hang below to prevent air locks

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Thanks. Yep I bridged the thermostat to run the fans. I don't think the temp sensor is correct as I can touch the pipe. It doesn't feel like 110. Will burp the system again! 

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8 hours ago, Smithy111 said:

Jack the back end up and fill/bleed the system and run with the cap off to clear all the air only way ive found that works well. Have you bridged the two spade connectors that go to the fan thermostat to test the electrical circuit is ok? and check/reset the otter thermal cut out on the left front wheel arch?

Since sorrting the cooling system on mine it runs at about 88o (checked with 3 different electronic thermal probes). Fan stat should cycle fans on at 92o and off at 82o (green dot for temperate climates) Also check if yours has the revised curved pipe inverted so the fan stat should hang below to prevent air locks

You must have the same LMA controller as me. I reworded the fans. I have been shorting the thermostat leads to run the fans manually whilst I tune. I have revised the outflow pipe. I have an inverted LMA connector so the fluid sits over the stat. Still doesn't activate. After running jacked up if this doesn't fix it I will fake the stat out and test it in boiling water with a meter. These cars always take time to perfect. Given my electrical skill and the issues Inhave had after testing everything really the electrical system is bit for a novice. I have got all the electrics spot on now. I thought I might have a pump jet problem as on rapid accel the engine stalled. Tuning seems to have cured this. I want to perfect the engine and then move on to the tailgate. Oh one of the number plate holders build holder(festoon) snapped! An easy fix is araldite. The replacements are poor copies! 

I need to perfect this and move on to the tailgate. That will require some work! 

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On both Esprits I have owned I had water circulation issues but on the current car when I rebuilt the cooling system I bought a pressure test kit.

I found several leaks using the kit which I fixed and once the system held air for several hours I then filled it up and had no issues at all.

Any leaks will tend to suck air into the system. 

The way I used the kit was when empty, and if the pressure guage didnt hold, I brushed soapy water all over every joint and looked for bubbling. Very effective method because once it holds air it will definitely hold water.

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Well Ingive up! I have jacked this up both ways spent three hours trying to get circulation. My technical analysis its FF...d!

well three possible problems...

the thermostat is broken

the plumbing is wrong

or the radiator is blocked.

(the pump was rebuilt and tested by PNM, so no worries there)

I have fixed all the leaks. 

 

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Have you taken into account the heater matrix? It sits higher than the radiator and cooling pipes.

Often on other cars this has to be on (open) I believe, when maintaining the coolant system.

Just a thought.

BTW I had no such problems with this S1. I expecting a right faff.

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Hi David, you were very lucky! Yes I had the heater on.

I've given up at the moment before I start to break things. I need to think my way out of this , as I did with the oil,problem.

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Fabian, 

Have you checked the coolant return from the header tank to the water pump area ?   A blockage in this is possible if you have been painting things and will result in boiling over !    Make sure you have flow or the expansion has no where to go and boils like a kettle  ! 

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A

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59 minutes ago, Lotusfab said:

I would guess the thermostat isn't working. 

Could be. there is a bypass pipe which means if the thermostat is closed there is a very short circuit, you could feel this pipe and check if its hot. Also is the thermostat plumbed in the right way. The two pipes which line up with each other are the main flow, and the angled side pipe is the bypass which should be pointing up/sideways.

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