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Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation - Page 190 - Esprit 'Project & Restoration' Room - The Lotus Forums Jump to content
Lotusfab

Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation

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Temperature guage

Well this has got me thinking. There are several possibilities as to why it is 30 degrees out. Could be the regulator so the voltage is wrong. Could be the sender. Could be the instrument or could be the resistance of the earth wire to the sender?  Will have to eliminate each part of this system. If anyone has a detailed circuit that might be of use?

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It's possible to calibrate the temp and fuel guage with the correct tool. There are calibration voltages.IMG_0139.thumb.PNG.472faa419c055530a47ae1f7d64e8aaf.PNG

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Is this the sender connection everyone has? Why isn't the sender earthed directly?IMG_0138.thumb.PNG.d88660c8667c471d0529bb1875e169aa.PNG

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1 hour ago, Lotusfab said:

It's possible to calibrate the temp and fuel guage with the correct tool. There are calibration voltages.IMG_0139.thumb.PNG.472faa419c055530a47ae1f7d64e8aaf.PNG

I've read that our gauges should run at 10v? Apparently the original voltage stabiliser switches off and on to regulate an average 10v from 12v over a period of time which isn't ideal. I've ordered one of these more modern variants to see if it helps my erratic fuel gauge. 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F282642726457

 

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Yep I think the operating voltage is 10 v. I just bought a new smiths voltage regulator. I haven't checked my gauge yet for dots?IMG_0141.thumb.PNG.1229d7528a85d52c18c37c931ee9c0a7.PNGIMG_0142.thumb.PNG.3d22a55656ce021dfc6526deab64cfe4.PNG but apparently there are dots on the face. I assume the calibration on ours is the same ? The test voltages correspond to the dots. The instrument can be adjusted with a calibration tool. I may make one. I'm only interested in an accurate 80 to 90 degrees range. If can get this correct that should suffice. Maybe the sender is broke so will try that first. Here's what  the tool looks like, quite easy to make.

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I would think the most likely cause would be either the voltage reg is stuck so its giving the full 12V all the time or the sender is the wrong one. There are many types of these, all different.

I could run mine up to temp and measure the sender resistance if that would help.

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The only problem the calibration voltages may differ. Doesn't really matter as I'm 30 degrees off! I can in theory set it to read 80 exactly. Then the rest is a hot cold indicator.

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On 21/09/2019 at 02:08, Lotusfab said:

The only problem the calibration voltages may differ. Doesn't really matter as I'm 30 degrees off! I can in theory set it to read 80 exactly. Then the rest is a hot cold indicator.

Fair enough but in the event you are stuck out somewhere on the road and watching the needle swing one way or the other you might wish to have calibrated it properly. There are firms who specialize in this.

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Tailgate lock

Had to take the rear spoiler off again. The boot locks on these cars are a very poor design. They are very difficult to access. The lever connected to the lock has a single screw. Only problem is getting a screwdriver on it through a tiny slit which is offset. You really must fit this before the spoiler goes on. Which means you have to know where the lever points inside!

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Ok , finally the boot lock is sorted and rear spoiler back on with all lights working. Now on to the lower spoiler where a rivnut has a bolt broken off! I thought I had done all of these! I have painted the black in above the bumper.

Smithy111 gave me a new temperature sender. I just tested it. The readings are the same as before. So voltage regulator next and then instrument calibration,  if the regulator doesnt fix it. I cant face doing the tailgate at the moment. Theres a lot of work needed on that! 

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At last all lights working correctly!

IMG_0173.thumb.PNG.4aad88f4c52a763096a1c0c4ad42cb97.PNG

 

 

 

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You say that Fabian.......but why would the fog lights be on without the rear lights being on?🤔

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Mmm.I thought these were  the rear lights? Easy to switch if they are wrong. Imthough the fog lights were the small bulb in the centre? 

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Have I got the fog and rear lights mixed up? IMG_0174.thumb.PNG.1fe4b4bce272cb21d1dc4ec3c05a730b.PNG

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Yep just had a look at the movie Luigi scene. Looks like the wires are back to front! Thanks.

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Yep just had a look at the movie Luigi scene. Looks like the wires are back to front! Thanks.

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Yip - round the wrong way Fabian👍😉

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That’s better and from memory they should stay on when you switch on the fog lights👍 Not often my contributions have been anything but cosmetic for this project.......this is about as technical as I get😄

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Thanks for the input.. Not sure If the MOT man would know! But its all done the fog lights only work with the mains on .

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Rear heatsheild restored with spacers.IMG_0180.thumb.JPG.c28cfa77b6898159ddb9e1314b0b1726.JPGI have removed the bonnet seal and put the original back on. You cannot buy the original seal and you need it because the bonnet rests on it. Because its quite thick the innertube type doesnt work on these later cars!

Never ever use the engine bay seal with self adhesive. It peeled off after one day and caused about two hours of painstaking glue removal. I then had to refix it properly with industrial super glue! 

I would say always refurb and reuse the original seals the new ones just aren't as good, the fit suffers.

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Temperature indicator

So far I have changed the sender and now the voltage regulator. I need to get a temperature gun or another way of measuring the temperature to confirm if the guage is working. Im starting to think its calibration is out. I was thinking of getting another guage and wiing it directly to the sender and battery with the old regulator. New temperature guages are £50. 

Ignition

I have noticed when the battery gets low I cant start. I believe the ignition voltage is too low. At the moment there is no incresed starting  voltage, as I have not made a circuit yet. Also under load sometimes there is a stumbke. I believe the running voltage is too low. I think it needs  a new ballast resistor to get about nine volts running across the coil. 

The main objective now is to get this back together and perfect it later. Its starting to look stunning as all the little details get completed. 

The jobs left now are the rear quater windows, tailgate, skis and racks.  The tailgate involves a lot of work. Fortunately Imhave already done most of the fiberglass bits. Instill need to conplete the metal brace and bond it in. 

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