free hit
counters
Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation - Page 191 - Esprit 'Project & Restoration' Room - The Lotus Forums Jump to content


Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation


Recommended Posts


Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.
  • Replies 6.3k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Plan B, the wife is going to help so tomorrow when the rain has stopped its going back in! Once its back in I’ll feel like I’m almost there about five months  since it went bang! 

Posted Images

1 hour ago, Andyww said:

You could unscrew the sender and dip it into a kettle of boiling water for a 100 deg reference.

Ahh misunderstood. Great idea, whill try in in a kettle and connect the old sender to the guage.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Had a fuel leak form the dirvers banjo. My fault I mixed up the Aluminium and copper washers. Each banjo should have an aluminium washer at the top of the banjo and a copper one below. Job done! 

Just writting in the Goodyear letters on the tyres. Ive researched this. There are three options oil based gloss paint, tyre pen or latex/oil based.  I have used the latex version and it discoloured and has started to peel. It took a longbtime to paint on. Sourcing oil based gloss is tricky and you have to test it. So Im back to the tyre pen which is quick. Trouble is it doesnt last but its easy to redo.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Dave. Will be using them when I switch over the tyres. I want some pics with the originals first.

I have come to the conclusion the wrong rear srings have been fitted,so II will have to switch them out. Its sitting a bit high!!!

 

IMG_0195.thumb.JPG.80e30042c931406dfa1171458eed29fd.JPGIMG_0196.thumb.JPG.0b649650fc80c652a8c438cab051d330.JPGThe quater window will be tricky. It needs holding in position until the dinitrol sets. Heres my solution....

IMG_0194.thumb.JPG.c6f5e6dd78d32e5d84ddb80e1d7ddffe.JPGNot fitted yet. Will need a few spare days in a row to do both sides. You have to take your time with this as you only get one chance. Better not to take them out in the first place! I have a probelm where I have to dismantle everything! Spacer blocks have to be fitted before glueing in. I make my own 4 mm out if hard rubber. Bead needs to be about 8 mm. However I find the Dinitrol nozzel is excellent it makes a pointed bead which compresses out as you push the window in. Now need to remove the engine bay surround again!  You cant put too much pressure on the glass! 

Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, Lotusfab said:

Temperature indicator

So far I have changed the sender and now the voltage regulator. I need to get a temperature gun or another way of measuring the temperature to confirm if the guage is working. Im starting to think its calibration is out. I was thinking of getting another guage and wiing it directly to the sender and battery with the old regulator. New temperature guages are £50. 

 

Set a pot of water on with the sender (jumper wired to car) in it. Water boils @ 100C, which is in the range you want it to be accurate. Adjust gauge to suit, or replace proven defective parts. You could test the two senders against each other with your ohmmeter also.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Lotusfab said:

Its sitting a bit high!!!

I'd say for an 82 car that is way too high -  not just a bit. The 85MY onwards sat much higher, so are you currently  using these springs?

Check my album below below- you'll see the difference in height between an 82 & 87 Esprit.

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

@Lotusfab & @ChrisJ you haven't installed the rear hatch yet, along with its glass. That's quite a weight.

I wouldn't attempt anything on the suspension yet until the car is complete. You'll be wasting your time, as you'll be aiming at a moving target.

 

Edited by Fridge
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I thought about the hatch, driver and fuel tank weight. The spring is two inches longer compressed at the moment than another equivalent car. The original damper is over extended. I tried jacking one wheel and it still wont compress it anywhere near the required amount, effectively doubling the weight. So decided to send £70 and ger two new rear springs of a known length. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
42 minutes ago, ChrisJ said:

I'd say for an 82 car that is way too high -  not just a bit. The 85MY onwards sat much higher, so are you currently  using these springs?

Check my album below below- you'll see the difference in height between an 82 & 87 Esprit.

 

 

Youve got some great pics on there!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well I'll call this Andys Temperature Experimant, as he thought of it!

IMG_0204.thumb.JPG.e92b08c746bf28f839d602e09e05fca0.JPG 

Method

Here we have a travel kettle, two wires connected to the sensor wires and the original sender. The kettle is boiled. Water boils at 100 degrees.

Observations

The guage rises slowly to about 90 degrees then stays there until the water boils. It then increases to 115 degrees when it should read 100 degrees. The Voltage regulator and sender have  been changed.

Conclusion 

The guage needs calibrating or its F...d! There seems to be an erratic temperature increase which implies morevthan just a calibration problem.  Happily the car is running 15 degrees cooler than the instrument would have us believe. This was confirmed before using the strap on temperature sensors.

Solution

Get another guage!

IMG_0209.thumb.JPG.cb9bf1869a4fffd692ba8be80dcbe442.JPG

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Suspension

Well its nearly time to perfect the suspension so Ive started to look into it in more detail. Im sure many of you will disagree with some of the comments. No problem I am very interested in any other info? Seems  to me in simple terms according to the parts manual the dry sump/Essex and the pre 1985 cars have a few differences.

The springs on the front are different conical/straight then Aircon or just heater.

The springs on the rear appear to be all the same -  just aircon/heater option (Aircon slightly longer)

The dampers are different but apparently just the mounts, so this should not affect the ride.

The dry sump has different trailing arms, upper and lower links, hubs and compomotive wheels.

So why in pictures do the Essex cars appear lower. Well there are stories of them being loaded or adjusted to sit lower. After 1985 the cars sit higher- this is purely early cars Im discussing. 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Two thoughts on your temperature calibration conundrum. I've always believed the temp gauge to be indicative at best, slightly better in that regard than the Veglia gauge (!) but a little non linear around the 90 mark. Hence with mine which has an 82c thermostat, at normal running temp the needle is just short of touching the edge of the 9 if that makes sense. In my head I've always translated the mark to the left of 90 as a reading  of 70c and to the right as a reading  of 110c, other owners may have different values in mind.

Also worth bearing in mind when you are calibrating your gauge that with the radiator cap on  engine running  etc  the cooling system gets pressurized. So for example at 15 psi water boils at  121c so you probably don't really want the gauge range to max out when the coolant gets to 100c.

  • Thanks 1

Normally Aspirated - and lovin' it!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well Ive managed to source a second temperature guage. i plan to test its calibration. If it is off I will calibrate it myself.

Ignition system

Well I built the circuit myself using a ballast resistor and coil. Im lucky I have an understanding of electronics. The set up is pretty simple. I post imformation about it purley to help those that are not electronically minded. The ballast resistor and coil are esentially a potential divider circuit. By this I mean they use resistnce to split voltage. I have a luminition ignition system with an optical set up. The coil im using I got with the car. I have noticed when the battery is drained it wont start. Also in operation there is a stumble when accelerating. I believe this is because the voltage at the coil is not sufficient. Theres an irony here. The point of ballast style coil is to aid starting at low voltage and run the coil at a lower volatge during continiuous operation. This is to make the coil more reliable.

When the battery gets drained the car will still start as the ballast resistor is bypassed to create the full 12 volts at the coil. I never bothered with this part of the circuit. I believe I have two issues. The luminition wires may be too close to the high tension leads, creating interferance. The  coil an resistor are not specifically  designed for the luminition or to work together. I just checked the resistor I bought is 1.6 Ohms. It should be 1.5 Ohms, the same as the coil. I could mess around perfecting this, but I don't have time. I believe the best solution is to replace the resistor and coil with a luminition matched coil and ballast resistor, it is all designed to operate together and should produce the optimum spark. Once Ive switched it all over I will report back. Its quite easy to  sort all this with a multimeter. It would be next to impossible to determine whats happening with out measuring voktage and resistance. I will,reinstate the  increased starter voltage (yellow and white wire). 

 

IMG_0211.thumb.PNG.89ad7b82080783bc196ee25e304bed47.PNG

Something like this I think would work much better than my current set up.

Link to post
Share on other sites

If all is wired up correctly I expect you'll be trouble free. I ran Lumentition optical triggered on a tuned Elan with total reliability over a period of 12 years with numerous track day laps to its credit despite high under bonnet temperatures. Used both Bosch Blue coil and aftermarket what-have-you successfully.

Cheers

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Lumenition systems had a flaky start, when they were initially adopted on the Esprit they failed often, which is why they switched over to the Lucas Constant Energy system. 

But they made improvements and by the time Lotus had dropped the system it was very reliable and has been  since those early days.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Gold FFM
On 26/09/2019 at 18:10, ChrisJ said:

I'd say for an 82 car that is way too high -  not just a bit. The 85MY onwards sat much higher, so are you currently  using these springs?

Check my album below below- you'll see the difference in height between an 82 & 87 Esprit.

 

 

Thanks for posting those. The fourth picture (and about 4 or 5 later on, 42 TFK) feature my first Esprit, an 87 Turbo HC. I bought it from a friend of mine who was the original owner and can be seen driving it in the pictures, he was a bit too tall for it so rarely drove it. I bought it in 98 with only 14k on the clock and in near concours condition. 👍

cheers

-Chris

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Chris

Are you still in contact with Nick:? Say hi from me. You could also ask him about the cling-film :) - That was one of the reasons for the concours condition

There seem to be a few images missing from the gallery -  I have a whole sequence of these.

y4mLUbUH4BJQpHsC1jVGopzS4h5FmRoSTpdsXguo

 

y4mZUrjzceEpaD8-jldKlNZx3OgWXSPrwKag_wfe

 

 

 

 

  • Love 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Had to adjust the handbrake today. 

As always not much ino in the manual on this. The left rear caliper wasnt fully engaging. I adjusted the entire system accessing the cables from the plate behind the drivers seat. The problem was the balance device wasnt centered. It took a while but in the end I got each caliper mechanism to travel exactly the same amount and release fully with no tension in either cable. Handbrake operation is now very good. I replaced the handbrake plate in sdie the sill with a new one , so no play whatsoever! 

Tailgate

I'm now restoring the tailgate. Theres a lot of work involved as It has to be James Bond spec. I hope to complete it and get it back in the car in the next few days. My last bit of fiberglassing! 

The tailgate glass surround is made of ABS plastic. Pretty silly as it gets very hot above the engine. ,My trim piece is damaged so Im going to repair the missing section using 1.5 mm ABS sheet. I also have to make some new ABS door edge protectors when I get time.

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Rear quater window

Do not remove! Thats my advice. To replace this neatly is really tricky! At least skill level 10/10! The problem is the original sealing systemmis no longer available. You can buy sealant tape. Whether or not it would hold in this area is debatable. So its Dinitrol. Yes the problem here is spacer blocks and the many different surfaces it will have to seal against. Make life simple and leave them in! Heres one done and the tailgate glazing. Leave the tailgate glazing in as well. It takes ages to do this all and is very tricky and I have had a lot of practice! 

IMG_0236.thumb.JPG.2f6dd9bba5490d5f9fca8dd427be3fa5.JPGIMG_0237.thumb.JPG.7990acf0b95f70849c5c8a3f8aa8e93e.JPG

 

 

Unfortunately, due to lack of rulers and wooden blocks the other side tomorrow!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...