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Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation


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30 minutes ago, ANDYR said:

Loving the look of the car, Fabian.

A controversial alternative to the fibreglass ski racks are these I made up in ploy carbonate and stainless steel.  skis held in place with rubber tree ties...

Racks drilled into car and held in place by bolting onto a large steel plate running along the underside of the top and bottom of the tailgate.  As tailgate shrinks when bolts are tightened, tube spacers are in place along the bolts to keep that gap a uniform size.

fotos show finished rear cradle and first fit to the my S3.

see you on the slopes...  :)

 

5F40E770-AE7D-4485-BE77-0A8E764D4A4C.jpg

72D435E0-14D0-4BA6-B62B-701F1205B014.jpg

Thanks, nice job. Useful bit on info about the strinkage. I planned on plates as well. How is the extra weight on opening the tailgate when the skis are off?

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41 minutes ago, ANDYR said:

Loving the look of the car, Fabian.

A controversial alternative to the fibreglass ski racks are these I made up in ploy carbonate and stainless steel.  skis held in place with rubber tree ties...

Racks drilled into car and held in place by bolting onto a large steel plate running along the underside of the top and bottom of the tailgate.  As tailgate shrinks when bolts are tightened, tube spacers are in place along the bolts to keep that gap a uniform size.

fotos show finished rear cradle and first fit to the my S3.

see you on the slopes...  :)

 

5F40E770-AE7D-4485-BE77-0A8E764D4A4C.jpg

72D435E0-14D0-4BA6-B62B-701F1205B014.jpg

Whats holding them down at the top?

Have you got any pics of the fixing plates please? I need to design the mechanism so any info will be of use. Thanks.

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Hi Fabian.

Haven't got any photos of the fixing plates.  Sorry.  If you look at the photo above, the foam board template I created is visible.  The rough sketch is here.  Essentially a long rectangle with material taken out along it's length to cut down on as much weight as possible.  With a distance of 470mm between the inner walls of the bottom two cradles.  They line up with the rear light cluster.  I did this simply by eye off a photo of the car from the web.  The thickness of the polycarb was 10mm which I took, again, from a light cluster wall.  I wanted the rack to someone look 'at one' with the dimensions.

The weight thing is a bit of a red herring. on there own, the plates probably don't add up to much. However,  with both top racks and bottom cradles fitted, the additional weight is quite noticeable and it's extremely heavy to lift when you add four skis! My struts are new (Vauxhall Corsa).  They won't keep the tailgate with skis up in position, but I'm confident stronger gas struts will.  Not sure about the strain on the strut mounting, but if you're holding open the tailgate, the pressure is somewhat lifted... Usefully, you can open the tailgate fully when the skis are on, as the angles allow full movement.  I think even with your longer skis too.  The weight however is huge and I wouldn't want my fingers over the edge when that thing comes down!

Regarding fixing, I went for rubber as it's 'simple, then add lightness'.  Looking at all images I could of the car and the prop ski mounts from the film, all I see is people have literally screwed the skis in place at both top and bottom.  the shot I attach even has what seems electrical tape for the final fix!  Hardly practical. I experimented with a host of fixings, but settled on the rubber as it stretches around the skis, holds them down, prevents them 'chattering' around in a locking mechanism, are easy to replace and can be tucked under the skis.  It also allows for different shape skis to be fitted too.

let me take some photos tomorrow and post up.  I'll see if I've a film of an old fixing experiment too. If too big to post i'll put on vimeo and share the link.

 

 

IMG_2191.jpg

Screenshot 2019-12-20 at 21.34.31.png

Edited by ANDYR
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IMG_0654.thumb.PNG.3cc6e4d63a1d922b3a67f3e64a9594fb.PNGThanks great info that will help. I got around mould making yesterday and realised I havnt git any gelcoat! I recognise the picture above. Its from the Monacco Car. The ski racks on that were made bespoke and are not original. In fact even the miami car racks have been repaired and a bracket fitted to hold the skis, which wasnt used on the movie car. In fact the car used in the film is now in Doha. The picture of the original racks show no ski support brackets. I didnt realise the tailgate would compress. I may use the cylinder idea. 

The original upper racks have a flip over bracket held down by a pin. Im going to repkicate this but it will add weight. Should have the fiberglass racks made in about two weeks. Then the mechanism below them which I want to lock with a key. 

So in he pick the top part pivots on a cabinet hinge - yes those fiendish Norfolk chaps had raided B and Q parts bins again! 

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IMG_0655.thumb.PNG.f553c2063fecf04b0168c1b0b34bc8ec.PNGMy copy of the top bit which will be mounted on the metal hinge. My poetic license here will be  to have rubber strips beow and above the bracket, Thule style, to hold the skis in place. The bracket will lock with a push in pin, like the original. The exception a key will be needed to retract the pin.

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Hi Fabain (and all)

Here's a link to a film talking through the rack mechanism.  All stimulus for you, Fabain.  Not instruction!

 

password = SKIRACK

 

Andy

 

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  • Gold FFM

Hi Andy, they do look good... May I have a pair in primer so I can have for my Esprit... 🙂 Also, I would be interested to see how you actually mount them on the car when you have done that - also interested to see how yours end up Fabian... I ideally want a solution where they are not bolted permanently to the tailgate... 

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Well still no moulds due xmas!

have started to align the suspension now the ride height is correct. So for anyone doing this on the Turbo to save you time heres the info. First get a graph like this one. The mm readings for toe need converting.

IMG_0690.thumb.PNG.7fe8f50a6af961fc650843e240847bea.PNGSo on my car 1982....

Front

Camber 1/2 degree negative +/- 1/4  - not adjustable.

Castor 3 degrees +/- 1/2 . Adjusted using shims on the anti roll bar

Toe. 18 seconds or 0.3 degrees negative each wheel. Adjusted fron the nuts.

Rear

camber - 1/2 degree negative as above - adjustable upper links else cant adjust. Mine is set perfect now. This affects the toe.

Toe -  13 1/2 +/- 5 seconds or app 1/4 degree negative adjusted using shims. 

Its will take several trips unless the garage knows what they are doing.

I have got them to do the front toe and rear camber. From these readings I will use a laser lever on the wheel rim, project a dot on the wall, calculate the change in dot position using maths for the change in wheel toe then place a marker on the wall and shim to achieve this. It will then go back for more measuring. 

Using this system I have sorted the S1. Sometimes the from camber is 15 secs out, theres nothing you can do about it. Simce these cars arnt racing I dont think it really matters that much or will even be noticeable. The toe adjustment though makes a huge difference to the steering feel. 

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I presume you’ve seen Tim Engel’s take on setup Fabian?
 

He actually recommends a little toe-out and less than the 4mm max rear toe.
 

Can’t find it atm, but Travis @Vulcan Grey also uses front toe out and I believe he has a modicum of experience 😉

 

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I am busy trying to tefine this car. Its slowly getting better. After a total rebuild it takes some months to refine them. I still have a stumble on acceleration. I dont believe its the pump jets. I believe the fault is the idle jets are too small. I have the factory size 40 fitted. I am going to try 43s. Hopefully this will correct the stumble. 

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4 hours ago, DaveyT said:

I presume you’ve seen Tim Engel’s take on setup Fabian?
 

He actually recommends a little toe-out and less than the 4mm max rear toe.
 

 

The V8 had toe-out on the front, factory settings I believe. Not G cars.

I am not sure why deviate from the factory on the early cars as the handling is great as all the press tests agreed. There was I recall some issue with one of the journos which was caused by the car having incorrect tyre pressures.

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Sorry, my bad...this is the thread I found...it was related to your last project...

The thing I note that is missing is the model Tim is referring to.
How sure are you that it was the S1? Maybe Jon can confirm?

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12 hours ago, Andyww said:

There was I recall some issue with one of the journos which was caused by the car having incorrect tyre pressures.

And I recall that was with the earlier S1/S2 chassis  - still have the article in one of those Brookland compilation books.

I would perhaps also suggest that a non-standard setup for an individual in the US would not necessariy translate to the UK, as the roads, tyre choice, climate, replacement parts etc. and driver preferences are not the same.  

 

NB Fabian that 'stumble' is very common and some people have successfully ironed it out with larger idle jets, so definitely worth checking.   (I also generally run 43's - although I dont run a standard LC setup).   NB even another counterclockwise turn of the mixture screws, with your 40's, may alleviate it, or prove you are on the right lines  - although it will also put your idle CO out of MOT range

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Lotus have always provided a car with exceptional chassis characteristics yet there is generally latitude for tailoring to suit the tastes of the driver. Toe at the rear is quite critical and will offer evil behaviour if set poorly. Front end toe is, on the other hand, quite suitable in typically slight measures positive or negative. No harm in exploring this with an Esprit as these cars are quite superbly forgiving by dint of fundamental design.

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BACK TO SQUARE OnE - BANG! 

My rebuilt engine just went bang! I dont understand why, I was pendantic when I rebuilt it. I have been driving it for a while and only yesterday it was running really well. Then today a knocking noise on start and within about 5 minutes a bang and engine stopped dead. So far have inspected the cylinders. Top of pistons all fine. My next move before therapy is to remove the cam covers check for damage and then the cam belt and try rotating the engine to put pistons half up. Then check camshafts for siezure. Maybe a valve has failed? Thats my bet.

If it helps anyone I have a clue to the problem, oil pressure! 

Why doesnt oil pressure rise on rebuild ? I coudnt get any pressure. Well my problem was the overpressure valve stuck open. I noticed oil pressure rise was sometimes intermittent. Thanks to Andy I have another housing which I was going to fit. Alas I never got around to! So I now have two choices get a local professional to rebuild it why I drink coffee and watch netflix or take it apart and rebuild it again. Im still thinking of the best way to go. It would be nice to confirm why it failed and confirm it was nothing I did.

Im still making ski racks so this is a bit of a kick in the teeth, nevermind a small problem in the big scheme of things. Anything can be fixed! 

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