Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation

[Lotusfab 3,173]

Front springs also replaced now. Theres and excellent guide on the Lotus Esprit World website on how to remove the springs. You split the upper wishbone, it makes it so much easier! 

Ive nearly finished the top RHS ski rack plug. Its taken hours and hours to sand and shape. Ive also started the smoothing of the lower rack plug. Im using Isopon P38 over the styrofoam which now has glass cloth and epoxy resin over it to stop the foam from melting! Laborious process to say the least. If the plugs are perfect there will be a lot less work required to the  moulds.

[Rolls 201]

Please

[Lotusfab 3,173]

Havent really got any pics... heres a link to the suspension fitting guide...

http://www.lotusespritworld.com/EGuides/EMaintenance/Suspension_fitting.html

[Lotusfab 3,173]

The plugs so far, still farvfrom finished. They need further filling and smoothing. Then I have to make another top one because they are handed! Im not enjoying this bit. Im still a long way off getting working racks. But this is the worst bit to do. These will be fairings the load bearing part being metal and underneath these.

The car is now driving really well after my suspension work. I have compared the heights and now am factory correct. 

[drdoom 396]

Fabian, if I may hijack your journey for a moment - regarding interior trim, specifically the largest piece of material which covers the dash broadly. Does this also cover the scuttle right up to the base of the screen? I'm looking at my bolt-on dash finisher ( that which includes the glove box ) and suspect the method is to trim it on the bench leaving additional material sufficient to then glue over the scuttle once attached. Correct?

Steve 

[Lotusfab 3,173]

Hi Steve, I think I know what you are refering to.

The scuttle area is trimed with a piece of material or leather as above. It needs to bend over the top slightly to cover the area that can be seen if you dont block out the lower part of the front screen with tape or black screen colourant. It also extends to the lower area so the other bit of dash sits on top of the end. 

This part is trimmed on the bench. You need to replace the foam when you trim it to get the material to sit correctly. 

To be clear they are trimmed separately in the same material. As above.

[Lotusfab 3,173]

Looks like this when done.

Screen tape hides the transition area and makes it look neat. If your bonding the screen in dont put the sealant too far up the screen, it will squeeze al, over your newly trimmed scuttle area. It has to be low on the bottom edge.

You may recall I trimmed the scuttle area using new hide. I would not advise taking this leather off as it will rip. Then its a big job with a new hide to repair! 

[Lotusfab 3,173]

Second top plug almost there and the clamp top plug done. Should be making fiberglass versions soon....Shame is Ill be an expert then never do this again! On on the right is styrofoam covered in Epoxy resin. I did the left with glass cloth I dont think it need its so the right one will be covered in Isopon then smoothed. They are assymetric to fit the roof curve! Thats where everyone seems to have failed in the past. The skis sit horizontal. 

[Lotusfab 3,173]

Ok Plugs 90 per cent complete. Just have to mould the top part, sort out the tops of the racks then a final smooth. About 2 1/2 weeks on this! 

[Lotusfab 3,173]

The cars nearly sorted. I had an anoying smell of pertrol. I checked everything. As everything is new I couldnt understand it. Andy helped in that I thought the petrol caps were a bit loose. He pointed out a spring behind the seal presses it into place. A slight bend on the spring and ten minutes later both fitted much better. Hey presto, no fuel smell! 

Its really nice to drive. Cant believe its nearly sorted! Not  sure it will handle when the skis are on! 

[ANDYR 39]

Loving the look of the car, Fabian.

A controversial alternative to the fibreglass ski racks are these I made up in ploy carbonate and stainless steel.  skis held in place with rubber tree ties...

Racks drilled into car and held in place by bolting onto a large steel plate running along the underside of the top and bottom of the tailgate.  As tailgate shrinks when bolts are tightened, tube spacers are in place along the bolts to keep that gap a uniform size.

fotos show finished rear cradle and first fit to the my S3.

see you on the slopes... 

 

[Lotusfab 3,173]

30 minutes ago, ANDYR said:

Loving the look of the car, Fabian.

A controversial alternative to the fibreglass ski racks are these I made up in ploy carbonate and stainless steel.  skis held in place with rubber tree ties...

Racks drilled into car and held in place by bolting onto a large steel plate running along the underside of the top and bottom of the tailgate.  As tailgate shrinks when bolts are tightened, tube spacers are in place along the bolts to keep that gap a uniform size.

fotos show finished rear cradle and first fit to the my S3.

see you on the slopes... 

 

Thanks, nice job. Useful bit on info about the strinkage. I planned on plates as well. How is the extra weight on opening the tailgate when the skis are off?

[Lotusfab 3,173]

41 minutes ago, ANDYR said:

Loving the look of the car, Fabian.

A controversial alternative to the fibreglass ski racks are these I made up in ploy carbonate and stainless steel.  skis held in place with rubber tree ties...

Racks drilled into car and held in place by bolting onto a large steel plate running along the underside of the top and bottom of the tailgate.  As tailgate shrinks when bolts are tightened, tube spacers are in place along the bolts to keep that gap a uniform size.

fotos show finished rear cradle and first fit to the my S3.

see you on the slopes... 

 

Whats holding them down at the top?

Have you got any pics of the fixing plates please? I need to design the mechanism so any info will be of use. Thanks.

[ANDYR 39]

Hi Fabian.

Haven't got any photos of the fixing plates.  Sorry.  If you look at the photo above, the foam board template I created is visible.  The rough sketch is here.  Essentially a long rectangle with material taken out along it's length to cut down on as much weight as possible.  With a distance of 470mm between the inner walls of the bottom two cradles.  They line up with the rear light cluster.  I did this simply by eye off a photo of the car from the web.  The thickness of the polycarb was 10mm which I took, again, from a light cluster wall.  I wanted the rack to someone look 'at one' with the dimensions.

The weight thing is a bit of a red herring. on there own, the plates probably don't add up to much. However,  with both top racks and bottom cradles fitted, the additional weight is quite noticeable and it's extremely heavy to lift when you add four skis! My struts are new (Vauxhall Corsa).  They won't keep the tailgate with skis up in position, but I'm confident stronger gas struts will.  Not sure about the strain on the strut mounting, but if you're holding open the tailgate, the pressure is somewhat lifted... Usefully, you can open the tailgate fully when the skis are on, as the angles allow full movement.  I think even with your longer skis too.  The weight however is huge and I wouldn't want my fingers over the edge when that thing comes down!

Regarding fixing, I went for rubber as it's 'simple, then add lightness'.  Looking at all images I could of the car and the prop ski mounts from the film, all I see is people have literally screwed the skis in place at both top and bottom.  the shot I attach even has what seems electrical tape for the final fix!  Hardly practical. I experimented with a host of fixings, but settled on the rubber as it stretches around the skis, holds them down, prevents them 'chattering' around in a locking mechanism, are easy to replace and can be tucked under the skis.  It also allows for different shape skis to be fitted too.

let me take some photos tomorrow and post up.  I'll see if I've a film of an old fixing experiment too. If too big to post i'll put on vimeo and share the link.

 

 

Edited December 20, 2019 by ANDYR

[Lotusfab 3,173]

Thanks great info that will help. I got around mould making yesterday and realised I havnt git any gelcoat! I recognise the picture above. Its from the Monacco Car. The ski racks on that were made bespoke and are not original. In fact even the miami car racks have been repaired and a bracket fitted to hold the skis, which wasnt used on the movie car. In fact the car used in the film is now in Doha. The picture of the original racks show no ski support brackets. I didnt realise the tailgate would compress. I may use the cylinder idea. 

The original upper racks have a flip over bracket held down by a pin. Im going to repkicate this but it will add weight. Should have the fiberglass racks made in about two weeks. Then the mechanism below them which I want to lock with a key. 

So in he pick the top part pivots on a cabinet hinge - yes those fiendish Norfolk chaps had raided B and Q parts bins again! 

[Lotusfab 3,173]

My copy of the top bit which will be mounted on the metal hinge. My poetic license here will be  to have rubber strips beow and above the bracket, Thule style, to hold the skis in place. The bracket will lock with a push in pin, like the original. The exception a key will be needed to retract the pin.

[stephenwhyte 1,892]

2 hours ago, Lotusfab said:

Norfolk chaps had raided B and Q parts bins again! 

[ANDYR 39]

Hi Fabain (and all)

Here's a link to a film talking through the rack mechanism.  All stimulus for you, Fabain.  Not instruction!

 

password = SKIRACK

 

Andy

 

[Lotusfab 3,173]

Hi Andy, excellent video. Thanks for posting that. You seem to have built some really good working racks. I hope mine work as well! 

[skiing 107]

Hi Andy, they do look good... May I have a pair in primer so I can have for my Esprit... Also, I would be interested to see how you actually mount them on the car when you have done that - also interested to see how yours end up Fabian... I ideally want a solution where they are not bolted permanently to the tailgate... 

[Lotusfab 3,173]

I think a non bolted solution would be tricky. 

[Lotusfab 3,173]

Merry xmas all readers! My fiberglass supplies arrived yesterday, so will start making the moulds next week!

[Lotusfab 3,173]

Well still no moulds due xmas!

have started to align the suspension now the ride height is correct. So for anyone doing this on the Turbo to save you time heres the info. First get a graph like this one. The mm readings for toe need converting.

So on my car 1982....

Front

Camber 1/2 degree negative +/- 1/4  - not adjustable.

Castor 3 degrees +/- 1/2 . Adjusted using shims on the anti roll bar

Toe. 18 seconds or 0.3 degrees negative each wheel. Adjusted fron the nuts.

Rear

camber - 1/2 degree negative as above - adjustable upper links else cant adjust. Mine is set perfect now. This affects the toe.

Toe -  13 1/2 +/- 5 seconds or app 1/4 degree negative adjusted using shims. 

Its will take several trips unless the garage knows what they are doing.

I have got them to do the front toe and rear camber. From these readings I will use a laser lever on the wheel rim, project a dot on the wall, calculate the change in dot position using maths for the change in wheel toe then place a marker on the wall and shim to achieve this. It will then go back for more measuring. 

Using this system I have sorted the S1. Sometimes the from camber is 15 secs out, theres nothing you can do about it. Simce these cars arnt racing I dont think it really matters that much or will even be noticeable. The toe adjustment though makes a huge difference to the steering feel. 

[Lotusfab 3,173]

Sorry, error in the above. The toe should be toe in, which I belive is positive not negative.

[910Esprit 531]

In my service notes, the front toe (trunnion cars) is specified as 2mm overall (i.e. 1mm per side).  If I'm reading your post correctly, I think you may (incorrectly?)  be suggesting 2mm per side?