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Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation


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Corgi have just designed a new range of James Bond models. Judging by the ski racks they should have contacted me first!IMG_1248.thumb.PNG.86da4270420bba34b4e4e70afb533c2b.PNG

Ohhh and the wheels!

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For those of you reading this sometimes things that are written come across not as intended. I have called Dave Changes today and had a long chat. He has a vast amount of experience with these engines

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That’s a mess - you’d think in this day and age if you’re going to bother producing a new model the standard would have to be top notch?🤔

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The number plate is ok!

Interesting fuel caps, wheel centres and thru wheel arch trim,

The good thing is they are keeping the dream alive! Mine should be rolling with skis very soon! 

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The only thing they have got right are the bonnet vent holes. Other models have the later holes as in the Dezer car which are wrong.

This white car also has the wrong bonnet. My car is also wrong :( the part under the vents should be satin black and the gauze is missing.

20200405_181517[1].jpg

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10 hours ago, Lotusfab said:

Corgi have just designed a new range of James Bond models. Judging by the ski racks they should have contacted me first!IMG_1248.thumb.PNG.86da4270420bba34b4e4e70afb533c2b.PNG

Ohhh and the wheels!

It's the same Corgi from 20 years ago. Picture here of the Directors cut version. They haven't changed it, just a re-release if they are selling them new again.

MiWWdN.jpg

The Ski's do have OLIN MARK VI markings on them. Some versions of this Directors cut model from the 2000's have two black sets of skis, some with one red set like this one.

 

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9 hours ago, Andyww said:

The only thing they have got right are the bonnet vent holes. Other models have the later holes as in the Dezer car which are wrong.

This white car also has the wrong bonnet. My car is also wrong :( the part under the vents should be satin black and the gauze is missing.

20200405_181517[1].jpg

Easy Fixed Andy!

 

I need to find a damaged Essex 1/18 Autoart and take the silver/black wheels off it.

It always annoyed me the white Autoart had gold wheels like the Copper Fire car. Good thing they got the interior spot on though.

 

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29 minutes ago, LOTUSMAN33 said:

Good job Fabian, some fettling, prep then paint!

Now crack on with that engine and get her back on the road. 👍🏻👍🏻

Dave :) 

Thanks Dave, yep engine next.

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Engine rebuild

IMG_1252.thumb.PNG.407839f7a53032381e71d3492baca03b.PNGIs this info of date? The new seals seem to fit flush on both sides? 2.5 mm would mean the front if the seal sticks out??

I've cleaned all,the fiberglass away and am now reviewing the manual for the rebuild. I'm double checking everything on this build.

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I replaced my front seal a couple of months ago. Pressed the new one in to the desired 2.5mm gap. As a consequence it does protrude a little at the front as you can see in the picture below. Make sure you get it in absolutely square. That’s crucial. It took me a few attempts with a DIY press tool. No leaks so far. 

3FD0189C-E656-4D15-B4D6-C4C399F0F844.jpeg

Ad initium

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1 hour ago, Gis said:

I replaced my front seal a couple of months ago. Pressed the new one in to the desired 2.5mm gap. As a consequence it does protrude a little at the front as you can see in the picture below. Make sure you get it in absolutely square. That’s crucial. It took me a few attempts with a DIY press tool. No leaks so far. 

3FD0189C-E656-4D15-B4D6-C4C399F0F844.jpeg

Have you got the spray sheild fitted behind? I reckon they have modified the seal and its wider than the oringal. Just wanted some confirmation. The only reason I can think of for 2.5 mm is if the clearance is need for the spray sheild. My engine has never had the spray sheild fitted. A builder I know throws them away on each rebuild.

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It's a while ago now but I'm pretty sure that the seal I installed from SJ also protruded slightly. Mine's a HC engine so may be different?

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Not worth starting anything now...🍺

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22 hours ago, Lotusfab said:

Done!IMG_1250.thumb.JPG.a6f82dfb86719d2ac9dbc8beec0c338a.JPG

Nice job, for any imperfections use some Dolphin Glaze and spray on some satin black as a guide coat and sand with 300 grit and you will see any low spots, repeat the process until there perfect and then your ready for primer. 

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14 minutes ago, James.007 said:

Nice job, for any imperfections use some Dolphin Glaze and spray on some satin black as a guide coat and sand with 300 grit and you will see any low spots, repeat the process until there perfect and then your ready for primer. 

Thanks James.

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2 hours ago, Lotusfab said:

Have you got the spray sheild fitted behind? I reckon they have modified the seal and its wider than the oringal. Just wanted some confirmation. The only reason I can think of for 2.5 mm is if the clearance is need for the spray sheild. My engine has never had the spray sheild fitted. A builder I know throws them away on each rebuild.

The spray shield is a part that dates back,  with the modern directional seal we have now it is not necessary to fit it... a personal choice thing..   The new seals do sit proud at the front when set at 2.5mm as stated in the manual ... However as long as the seal is square in the housing and the crank journal does not have a seal grove worn in, a bit of tolerance can be given on the 2.5mm . I have stripped engines where the modern seal has been fitted flush at the front leaving only circa 1mm at the rear.. these engines had all covered reasonable  miles with no leak issues...   However what you need to be aware of is that the seal when set at the 2.5 mm point it only sits 3 mm from the rear of the 12 mm wide journal. so there is not a lot of room to play with in that direction.. Although these engines had no issues i still prefer to set the seal as close to 2.5 mm as possible..  hope that adds to clarity on things..  

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28 minutes ago, James.007 said:

Nice job, for any imperfections use some Dolphin Glaze and spray on some satin black as a guide coat and sand with 300 grit and you will see any low spots, repeat the process until there perfect and then your ready for primer. 

Oooooh ... me a big fan of Dolphin Glaze..  used it for years as a stopper and final skim seal on all repairs..  good bit of kit.. 👍

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24 minutes ago, CHANGES said:

The spray shield is a part that dates back,  with the modern directional seal we have now it is not necessary to fit it... a personal choice thing..   The new seals do sit proud at the front when set at 2.5mm as stated in the manual ... However as long as the seal is square in the housing and the crank journal does not have a seal grove worn in, a bit of tolerance can be given on the 2.5mm . I have stripped engines where the modern seal has been fitted flush at the front leaving only circa 1mm at the rear.. these engines had all covered reasonable  miles with no leak issues...   However what you need to be aware of is that the seal when set at the 2.5 mm point it only sits 3 mm from the rear of the 12 mm wide journal. so there is not a lot of room to play with in that direction.. Although these engines had no issues i still prefer to set the seal as close to 2.5 mm as possible..  hope that adds to clarity on things..  

Perfect, thanks.

Can't believe I havn't come across Dolphin glaze before. I've been using Isopon for over forty years. It looks great I'll give it ago.

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So last time I fitted the seal flush. Didn't seem to cause any issues. This time I am going to set it to 2.5 mm. I have also decided not to fit the spray shield. 

Auxiliary Housing

Thanks to Andy he gave me a replacement housing and oil pump. So I have stripped it, removed the shaft checked it and replaced the front seal. I have also replaced the key and spring washer. I shall be fitting a brand new round tooth pulley. 

The oil pump housing I have already removed, cleaned, checked and replaced the PRV. It is perfect on this housing. The oil pump annulus and rotor are new. Despite that I am checking all of the clearances today using feeler and plastiguage. Once this is done I shall pack the oil pump with graphogen and bolt it on and torque up. Then the unit then goes into a plastic bag to keep any contamination off until I get round to installing it.

I am aiming for the highest possible standards on this build. I have taken what Dave has passed on into account. There are some mistakes on this blog previously so be very cautious when reading it. Evaluate everything for yourself before replicating. That said there is also a lot of things that arn't in the manual in this blog that will no doubt help anyone attempting a full resto.

As before I go over the mating surfaces of all metal parts looking for imperfections which I correct with engineering stones prior to aasembly. Any nicks in the surfaces must be cleaned up and dressed prior to assembly. Time consuming but essential. 

I'm lucky the new liners and Mahle pistons with new rings have been dropped in. I have a build sheet with the full specs including the liner nip readings. This will help a great deal.

I have checked the main journals have not be bored out at the factory to 15 thou oversize ( I have a later block)  as this time all of the bearings are being replaced by me with 10 thou ones due to the crankshaft grind (see the manual for further reading about this).

 

 

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Just finished cleaning the gasket material off. I found immersing parts in hot water sofens the gasket material and makes it much easier to get off. My favourate degreaser is now hot water and soap. With a brush its very effective and cheap. You can repeat as manybtimes as needed. 

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