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Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation - Page 251 - Esprit 'Project & Restoration' Room - The Lotus Forums Jump to content


Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation


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3 hours ago, red vtec said:

Not Lotus but Bond related. I made the book that was sold with the DB5 from "GoldenEye" The car sold at auction for £1.9million, the book covered the history of this particular DB5, I hand made the book, and case. 

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Excellent job, I do like handmade products, the attention to detail is superb 

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Thanks Dave. Nearly there on the tuning its within 3 mm but I want it spot on. Morgan carbtune, I had a lot of practice!   Slight oil leak form the rear cam cover on the inlet, easily fixed. I should

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I need to change out the run in oil. What oil is everyone using? I Think a synthetic oil may be better than mineral. there are lots of choices.

Millers 20/50 synthetic

Valvoline racing oil mineral 20/50

Mobile 1 racing oil 15/50

whats everyone using?

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I used Castrol Magnatec for 10000 miles before switching to synthetic.

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Ok Just called them. A dutch company do all of their oil recommendations for every vehicle. So not really an answer , but experts have decided the oil spec.
I have decided to use Millers Classic Sport High performance 20W50 fully synthetic motor oil. It has nano tech. Pricey, but nothing is too expensive for my Lotus! 

0CAFE964-FC1D-4487-B373-79D7B3C01D44.thumb.png.c1b89be5a3cf3e94beb207d6cef9d713.png577D2ECE-6900-44D8-B44B-4EB016E7F305.thumb.png.72ab1f25e4a17c51fb6744be435292f0.png

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The racing Jaguar boys tend to use Valvoline Racing 20 50. It seems to be the preferred oil for the XK engine that debuted in 1948 and was still going in the 80s. 

I use it in the Excel and LotusBits use it in all their engines if I recall correctly. 

I know nothing about the tech side so just pass this on for info. 

Justin  

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2 hours ago, Lotusfab said:

I have decided to use Millers Classic Sport High performance 20W50 fully synthetic motor oil. It has nano tech. Pricey, but nothing is too expensive for my Lotus! 

Classic synthetic sounds like an oxymoron to me :rofl:

Cheers,

John W

http://jonwatkins.co.uk

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I looked at the Valvoline racing oil. I didn’t choose it because its mineral oil. I think synthetic is better at handling the high temperatures,

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I always tend to default to original spec, which Valvoline was for Lotus in the 70s and 80s. And as I change the oil annually with relatively low mileage (sub-8K pa), I figure it will do the job.

But this is based very much on technical ignorance of more modern oils, which may well be much better for the engine. As I don't know, I stick to the old school. If you try to find out for sure, you just don't seem to be able to find a consensus with regard oil for older engines.

If LotusBits told me to change from Valvoline 20/50, I would probably follow their advise as they do race the 9 series engine and specialise in servicing/rebuilding them.

It would be good to hear how you get on with the Millers.

Justin

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Mike at Lotusbits has done lot of development work on these engines. I don’t know what he uses but whatever it is he will have tested it in his race engines.

I am sure the Valvoline is good enough. I just fancied the modern sythetic approach.

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There is a great deal of information to be found on the forum, "SpeedTech", hosted in America. A very recent discussion was graced with what I find to be the most comprehensive summary yet offered in any such thread. Will attach a link in the next submission.

From all I've read to date I'd go with Valvoline VRP synthetic 20W-50.

Cheers 

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There is a great deal of information to be found on the forum, "SpeedTech", hosted in America. A very recent discussion was graced with what I find to be the most comprehensive summary yet offered in any such thread. Will attach a link in the next submission.

From all I've read to date I'd go with Valvoline VRP synthetic 20W-50.

Cheers 

https://www.speed-talk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=62098

Review comments from member RDY4WAR in particular.

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3 hours ago, drdoom said:

There is a great deal of information to be found on the forum, "SpeedTech", hosted in America.

The choice of oil is missing a very good option in the USA though, Mobil1 10w-60. This was discontinued in the USA but still available in the UK. Note the Mobil advert above (video states its a paid-for promotion) does not mention this as it is from the USA.

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This is one slippery slope topic, no pun intended. I thought about Valvoline VR1, “Street” version & NOT the “Racing/not for street use” type, for the latter didn’t have the appropriate detergents to allow normal drain intervals. Used Street VR1 it in my 911sc, it was OK, using Brad Penn 20w50 partial syn. in her now, tends not to seep as much in the air cooled. I’m using Red Line 10w60 full synthetic in my ‘84 Turbo Esprit & really like it, easier starts & seems to ignore hot summer temperaments by keeping solid, steady temps with or without A/C on., plan on staying with it. Mind you, I’m sure price & availability is a factor for many, I’ve used Mobil 1 20w50 full syn. In the Esprit & think it’s not what it used to be, still very good but for the money wanted better hot temp. protection. Too much ZDDP & not enough appropriate detergents can be a bad thing too. I know the sweet spot for the 911 is around the 1200 to 1300 ppm & that’s what the Brad Penn delivers, but for the Esprit I’m still trying to figure what that # is, so in the meantime I’m doing shorter intervals for piece of mind. Trusted Charles Navarro’s experienced thoughts on the Porsche for his recommendations over many forums. Had Lucas 10w60 in Esprit before but added Red Line ZDDP supplement to bring it up to 1300+ ppm, some motocycle oils have slightly more ZDDP & lots of classic car flat tappet owners seek those out. I suppose it boils down to lots of things that an individual is just simply comfortable with be it price, availability, correct viscosity & application. Of course modern oils have had great improvements over the decades & suppose the basics like proper drain intervals shouldn’t be ignored because there’s no magical oil that stays clean without changing it. I apologize in advance for a lengthy post 😜

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Engine Tuning

I finally got to the bottom of the engine stumble at 2600 rpm. Its not the idle jet size or the pump jets, its the ignition timing! The distributor I have does not have the correct advance curve. The timing at 3500 rpm is correct, but this puts the idle timing off. Most people would probably think its fine. The solution is to replace the distributor with a solid state system and have a sensor ring welded to the crankshaft pulley or find a company that can set up the advance curve on the distributor, so its correct at idle and 3500 rpm.

I know upping the idle jet size has been touted on here as a solution for some years. I am now not convinced. I would exercise caution when increasing jet size make sure its not so rich you get unburnt fuel getting into the oil! The factory jetting is correct, so if the engine is stumbling with a 40 jet something else is wrong. ie. jet blocked with varnish, float height, pump jet setting, blocked carbs or ignition timing to name but a few! 

 

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