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Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation - Page 61 - Esprit 'Project & Restoration' Room - The Lotus Forums Jump to content


Esprit Turbo project car - part3 - the further continuation


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Simply replace the aluminium pipes whilst you've got the chassis stripped.

You'll spend nearly as much on half baked remedial work, and just as long, if not longer making repairs.

It's not worth cutting such corners in my opinion. They're not too expensive after all.

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For those of you reading this sometimes things that are written come across not as intended. I have called Dave Changes today and had a long chat. He has a vast amount of experience with these engines

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Front suspension arm 

Back to the important stuff, has anyone tried using a Protech damper on the early front suspension arm? There's only this way if you wish to access the knob but the arm has restricted movement before the adjuster hits?? Is this a problem?IMG_2414.thumb.JPG.b924e0ed463cbdfcc36212c2d37138ec.JPG

If the knob gets bent the damper will probably fail!

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I have no idea of the protechs on the early suspension Fabian,  but that seems like a crazy idea ?  Like you say the possible damage to the adjustment knob,  not to mention that you will not ever be able to adjust it when the suspension spring is fitted :ermm:

I personally would convert to having the fronts adjustable,  Hilly has a write up in his thread about fitting adjustable front shocks to the pre 85 esprits.  Yes i know it is not period correct but some things need to catch up with the times.  Worth considering IMO.  

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The previous owner of my car had Protechs fitted by Morland Jones (I can mention the name as they no longer exist!) and they not surprisingly had the adjusters sheared off for that exact reason. As the detent on the adjustment is within the knob, this meant the adjustment was free to turn to wherever it felt like.

I sent them back to Protech for repair which to their credit they did free of charge but then I had to grind the adjusters into a conical shape and also grind away a small amount of the lower spring platform to make them fit.

If I were doing it again I would fit the factory front shocks from the later cars and remove the spring platforms, or maybe even splash out on the Lotus-spec Bilsteins. I would much rather have dampers which were specced by Roger Becker than some third party company.

The Protechs are a single-adjustable shock so you cant adjust the bump/rebound ratio. I am pretty sure this ratio is wrong for the fronts on the Esprit. It never feels quite right. With the Protechs I cant get the ride quality anything close to my F328 which has factory-fit Bilsteins depite the Esprit having a much better, stiffer chassis.

The front-adjustable mod seems pretty involved. Once the spring height on the standard setup is correct (took me 3 spring purchases!) the standard is OK. There seems to be a slight concern with the modded setup whereby the full car weight is borne by the bolt through the lower shock mount. This runs into a non-reinforced hole in the lower link as this was not designed to take car weight, only damping forces.

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I had the same with my pro-techs as well - I don't think they are great. The knobs on mine have come off altogether. Would be much happier if I could convert to the later spec fronts instead...

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Andyww,  

Yes i see your point about the bottom arm been a weak point, and relying on that one bolt,   If you look at the post 85 bottom arm it is a full box section obviously with another arm that connects to the chassis unlike the pre 85 that relies on the anti roll bar to keep in straight :(

However if you look at the bottom arm on the pre 85 it is just a U shaped piece of steel and could well do with boxing in,  i.e add a plate to the top so it is no longer a U section and would become a box section,  also around where the bottom shock bolt goes through could have extra bit of plate welded on the outside to strengthen it up.  

I actually do not mind the pre 85 suspension with regards it incorperates the front anti roll bar,  it is just i cant live with trunnions i cant live with ! And welding up the chassis to fit the later suspension is a lot of work not to mention the extra cost in getting all the new bits.  The canley upright looked fantastic but an open to the elements bottom ball joint and bits that need welding on just put me right off sadly.

Still cant see why someone like lotusbits or such like has not done this, i.e you send your bottom arms off they weld in a new section to take a ball joint, then provide you with a new upright !  safe upgrade in my eyes, the trunnions belong on stuff that resembles for model T looking cars lol. :P

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Funny, at Silverstone Classic at the weekend we were "trunnion spotting", all the early Lotus race cars used exactly the same ones. But despite the higher speeds I would think the loadings on a 60's race car would be quite low with the light weight and narrow tyres.

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It is the only reason i will not use them as wide front tyres kill them,  They are a major weak spot and they look sxxt !   You look at the pre 85 rolling chassis and i admire its looks and design,  lovely alloy rear hubs,  race car looking chassis layout,  independant suspension,  Galvanised suspension components then you see the jurassic brass item jumping right out at you lol :(

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On 30/07/2017 at 21:22, 910Esprit said:

On my todo list, along with Starwars!

Sorry folks - we need to revisit this comment from Steve.

Not watching FYEO is bad enough. But Star Wars - surely you jest? Someone from Manchester lend him the DVD's. :2guns:

For god sake man - you haven't lived!

 

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Just picked up another batch of plating and powder coated stuff. The whole car is 95 percent done. It makes such a difference in time saving and finish. Some of the bolts are like new and  in zinc and so are the studs! Now I just need to get it all back together!

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1 hour ago, Lotusfab said:

Just picked up another batch of plating and powder coated stuff. The whole car is 95 percent done. It makes such a difference in time saving and finish. Some of the bolts are like new and  in zinc and so are the studs! Now I just need to get it all back together!

I was always under the illusion until recently that stuff sent of to the platers always needed tapping out due to the new Zinc plating,  but after working on rather large batch of stuff with m3 m4 holes etc that got plated i was amazed that nothing needing doing.   I think getting all your nuts and bolts etc done Fabian is a fantastic idea :respect: Also 95 percent complete sounds great :animier:

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Getting nuts, bolts and other pieces zinc plated makes a lot of sense. Though I've found in the past that the coating brake callipers doesn't last due to the corrosive brake pad deposits and general exposure. So I generally spray mine with HT paint. I had all the gear box bolts yellow passivated prior to rebuilt which look great.

IMG_20170301_205726924.jpg

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Protech solution

Spoke to Protech and have had a detailed look at the shock. The adjustment knob is held on by a grub screw. When you remove this there is just the slotted  brass adjustment spindle that the knob turns. The knob has a ball and spring with indentations in the shock allow it to click position. The damper can be adjusted by turning the slotted spindle like a carburettor mixture screw.

Solution, remove adjustment knob and put a rubber dust cover over the spindle or washer in the recess to keep dirt off the body. Use a thin screwdriver to adjust. Before taking the adjuster knob off wind it all the way out and set to about five clicks in. Job done no more fouling on the spring. Can't believe they haven't already done this for Lotus Chaps it's simple and easier to adjust!

IMG_2418.thumb.JPG.e5897cbbbe07dc1173329dafbb0ebc69.JPGIMG_2419.thumb.JPG.90d75e7ac4cf8c50ad4990133a049e12.JPG

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Yes @Lotusfab I got everything zinc plated as the amount wasn't massive and you pay by the job. About £30 for silver and yellow (gold) passivated.

So even the pedal box stuff went in also.

Turned out quite nice.

Pedal Box 01.jpg

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The best value Ive had on this job is the plating and powder coating. It's such good value and restores most parts to new. Even though I have blasting equipment, it just not worth the time or money for paint and there's no fumes to inhale!. Anyone who lives near Aldershott, Aurora powder coating did all my work. They can  help you with whatever you need doing! All the bits come back as new and wrapped in plastic. Got my handbrake done it's perfect, just like the S1 which they also did.

http://www.aurorapowdercoating.co.uk/

Cooling pipes

Have bitten the bullet and new chassis pipes are on their way!

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I will definitely try them next time as I am not going to use the place I used near Croydon again.

The problem with plating is if the part is somewhat rusty, it needs a lot of time spent on preparation, and they didnt. What they did was coarse sand blast the crap out of everything then plated, so everything came out with a matt finish. The only way to do rusty parts is to fine blast, coarse polish, fine polish, before plating. All very time consuming. For small parts I have a plating kit and have had great results when I have spent a very long time on prep.

Powder coating they cant really get wrong, it will cover a multitude of sins! 

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The other skill needed is aluminium part restoration. I found a great guy to do this: http://www.aloh.co.uk/

Some people silver paint castings but thats just wrong. The process he uses gives a totally original finish and lasts for ages. I did my Ferrari engine 4 years ago now and it still looks perfect.

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Powder coating does indeed cover a multitude of sins, but like with any other process, it is only as good as the preparation. I had a good quality sub-frame powder coated and it looked brilliant. However 15 years later (12 years of them in dry storage) and the you could peel some of it off like egg shell. I therefore do not recommend powder coating of chassis or running gear assemblies, which are exposed and need full removal to be refinished.

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Everything on a resto is interlinked! I need to get the chassis rolling. So I need to build the suspension and the wheels. In order to build the wheels I need to match the cx500 gold to the decals. So I need the decals. Problem!!!

Decals

has anyone out there got a dry sump with the original side stripes? In the picture the lower stripe looks thinner? Is this a camera angle or is the lower stripe thinner?IMG_2422.thumb.PNG.97ddbc9716608b8a322cc819e2a1c6df.PNG

It doesn't give a clue in the parts manual.IMG_2421.thumb.PNG.a2838907e22a6c0b106d0943f26dbc57.PNG

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