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Nelly

Brake line woes

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I have had lots of issues trying to refurbish the braking system on my S2 due to everything being rusted solid.

My current problem is with the brake line to the rear passenger side caliper.  The connection between the brake line and the braided brake hose (to the caliper) was rusted solid.  A friend of mine who is an ex mechanic and a lot stronger than me attempted to separate them - he did this OK on the drivers side but when doing the passenger side he actually snapped the end of the braided brake hose off, leaving the end still connected onto the cars brake line.

Unfortunately, when doing this the metal tab welded to the chassis which holds the connection between the two was weakened to such an extent that when trying to finish off freeing up it has snapped off:

20161218_154840_001.jpg

 

I am now hoping I can get the brake line free and the next point back in the system, being at the union on the chassis above the gearbox.  That is currently getting A LOT of penetrating fluid but my current dilemma is how to rectify mounting the brake connection on the assumption I get a new section of brake line made.

I can get an "L" shaped tab made up easily, but I can't weld and even if I could access to the area is very poor with the exhaust manifold and everything else in the way.  I wondered if I could epoxy bond a new tab onto the remaining flat section of the old one, and maybe strengthen with a jubilee clip or clamp. 

Any thoughts or other suggestions?

 

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Drill a small hole and us a screw-attached  P-clip, round the solid copper line, then use either jubilee clip as you say or just a cable tie.

I've never ripped any off but have bent a few of those tabs, now I just tend to cut the unions if they don't give way with a fair bit of force (it's easier than trying to repair the damage), but if you can, get the pipes made with brass unions (most are coated mild steel) as they will not rust together (even one steel cannot rust solidly together) and worst case not as bad to cut off as stainless steel unions.

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Hi Neil,  I'd be pretty sure that if you can reach that brake line nut with a spanner, then a good fabricator / welder will be able to reach it with a mig, or if not, a rod, plenty of good mobile MOT welders out there, so don't dispare, might cost you £50 but you wouldn't want your brake lines dangling near hot exhaust parts, it's better to get it done properly than trying to bodge it back on there yourself.

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I hadn't considered the mobile welder route.  My main concern on any repair was the heat generated in that areas as you say and the expansion and contraction that would result.

I have had to have the adaptors re-made which connect the calipers to the braided hose as once again they were solid and I could only destroy the lines and then remove the ends in a vice - quite hard when off the car, nigh on impossible when still in situ.  And of course access is a complete pain in the arse.

Thanks both.  Not at despair point just yet, just another hurdle to overcome... 

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I wouldn't have thought expansion would be an issue on such a small repair, but obviously the galvanised surface of the chassis will need to be removed in the repair area, so thorough rustproofing will be essential to futureproof the repair with POR15 or a similar zinc based coating.

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Mines an S2 so chassis not galvanised, so no problem there.  I have got some chassis paint leftover from what its currently been treated with, so got that covered (no pun intended).

Have e-mailed a local mobile welder, waiting to hear back.

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If the welding is not an option, you could try an angle head air-drill with a short-series bit.


Margate Exotics.

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9B11BB0A-68DF-4D26-8F57-7EF148AFBAFA-1564-00000452631185C1_tmp.png

this stuff is good for small repairs apparently....... never used it myself - but know folks who have. I have gas and mig options in my man shed !!


Only here once

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Thanks all.

I should have the new bracket tomorrow, and I have a mobile mechanic coming over in the morning so will know more then.

If thats not an option, may have to try one of the other methods suggested.  Having had another look today the location is directly above the brake disc, so whatever happens is going to be awkward.

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Mobile welder. Do it once, do it right. Like the guys said, it's such a small repair there's unlikely to be damage to the chassis if the guy knows what he's doing!

Good luck. Still looking forward to that S2 convoy...

Pete


Pete '79 S2

LEW Miss September 2009

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If you weld it - galv spray is your friend !!


Only here once

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5 hours ago, peteyg said:

Mobile welder. Do it once, do it right. Like the guys said, it's such a small repair there's unlikely to be damage to the chassis if the guy knows what he's doing!

Good luck. Still looking forward to that S2 convoy...

Pete

Me too, its the bloody car thats putting up a fight!  My rear calipers are now all but done so this is the only thing really holding me up.

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Update - mobile welder looked at car today and is quite happy he can weld the new bracket in,so that's going to happen next Wednesday.

The biggest headache I have had is trying to undo seized fixings, and so far working back from the rear caliper none of them have come apart - even when off the car and on a bench in a vice.  Nothing I have tried has worked, most of them are in locations where you don't have a good resistance working against you, I have gone through two cans of the "shock and unlock" sprays which have done nothing.

I have now worked back as far as the union on the chassis above the gearbox where both rear brake lines meet.  I really really need to get the fixing for the old brake line off which leads to the above troublesome chassis tab.  I have cur the brake line off to give better access as it was buggered anyway, but needless to say its solid.  I can get a breaker bar onto it but its starting to then pull the union off of the chassis.  See the lovely state of affairs below:

Use this one.jpg

How would you guys tackle trying to get this free?

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Yes, judicious application of heat - including parts still on the car - usually works.  Especially with PlusGas cannisters and fine (small) flames.  But of course, be careful.  Preventing adjacent parts from being burnt by insulating them is required.  There are several wrapping-type fabrics that can be used.  Even wet towels can work.  I remember removing the central UJ on Europa gear linkages with things heated until they glowed red.  That was off the car . . .

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Take the union off the chassis if you can. Though that may mean new brake lines all round...


Pete '79 S2

LEW Miss September 2009

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That's what I am trying to avoid.  Its not a cost issue, they are not expensive parts to buy but as you know its the access that's the problem.  I really want to avoid having to take the body off the car but on the passenger side every time I go to the next point back in the chain to undo something, it just refuses to.

Talking of taking the union off the car - it looks as though heat is the way forward.  I was thiking of getting one of those soldering mats, prising the union away from the chassis and putting the mat behind it (this will also give me better access with the heat source) - does that sound like the way to go?

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With the union off the car, a decent flare spanner on the pipe nut you can use a decent set of adjustables on the body of the three-way union to keep it still, and hey-presto it normally undoes.

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Pleased to say the pesky hose end is now out of the union.  Kept the union on the car, heated it up and then used some shock spray.  Was pretty stiff but now off the ca.

I am very happy, once I get the new lines made I can now start putting things back on the car! 

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And to finally wrap this topic up, the new bracket was welded on this morning,  Only took a couple of hours all in, and its a really neat job.  Very happy with it and I now have something for the new brake lines to fit to.

Can now see some light at the end of the tunnel at last.

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