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Hi guys.

I have a problem with my MY'11 Evora's window micro-drop due to a faulty door latch electric switch. This micro switch gives an electric pulse to the interior light and window drop/lift when you open and close the door.

The door latch electric micro-switch is broken. The window micro drop when opening the door is not working anymore and may cause water coming in or the window seal to break overtime. The other is issue is that the foot-well and interior light will not come on 'on'.

I believe there has been a LOTUS recall, but my car is no longer under warranty. I have dissembled the entire door latch mechanism and the micro switch is inside the door latch its can't be replaced separately. An entire new door latch mechanism assembly unit is the solution.... Auch  :-(

I believe this part is  B132B4169J for MY'11 for at 185 GBP ex VAT. However it seems a newer version of the door latch MY'12  have this part no. A132B4245K and cost only 70 GBP ex VAT.

Any experience and wise thoughts on what to do best and how I can save some pennies? Is the latter the update which replace the earlier version?

 

 

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It seems that there was an issue in the earlier versions of the early latch mechanism that would cause the interior door pull lever to detach from the unit.  I believe from reading the 2011/26 campaig

I still have my old latch which went faulty, so just checked it out of curiosity. I can confirm that mine also had a crack in the same place. Something tells me that you shouldn't shut the Evora'

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The newer latch assembly (inteva) should work, but it does away with the door sill button, so you're left with a hole in the door card. 

The other change is the interior door handle cable exits the latch assembly at a different (lower) point, so you'd likely have to poke a new hole in the foam access hole cover. Or upgrade to the MY12+ plastic covers. 

And the interior door handle is different, and has a different attachment method on the end of the cable. 

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This happened to my passenger side. After soaking the mechanism in GT80 (or WD40 with PTFE) it started working again. It had stopped working for months prior and didn't realise as I hardly use the passenger side. Ever since, it's still working fine now. It took a few attempts of reapplying oil but it freed the swtich!

I was also able to do this without taking lock off the car. I think I had to lock and unlock the car several times and also do this using a screwdriver with door open to force lock to engage.

Hope this helps,

 

David Walters

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7 hours ago, superdavelotus said:

This happened to my passenger side. After soaking the mechanism in GT80 (or WD40 with PTFE) it started working again. It had stopped working for months prior and didn't realise as I hardly use the passenger side. Ever since, it's still working fine now. It took a few attempts of reapplying oil but it freed the swtich!

I was also able to do this without taking lock off the car. I think I had to lock and unlock the car several times and also do this using a screwdriver with door open to force lock to engage.

Hope this helps,

 

David Walters

Thanks David. The mechanism itself works fine. Its the electric micro switch inside the latch mechanism that doesn't work anymore. Was that your problem as well?

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I've not actually done it myself, but advised a customer who did succeed.  He didn't even have to remove the latch mechanism, I believe you can see it in the latch, and I think was able to bend it enough using a small screwdriver or tweezers.

I can see there are two wires coming off it, so you should be able to test the switch is electrically making-breaking when the latch is operated?

Dave

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  • 1 year later...

My car is a MY11 which clearly had some issues with the door latches , addressed during warranty by previous owner

 

21.01.11 @308              JCT                  Adjusted driver door release
16.02.11 @859              JCT                  Rectify rattle RH door inner
30.11.11 @3657            Oakmere         Campaign 2011/26 door latch replacement
                                                                   Rectify passenger door not opening  
23.02.12 @3703            Oakmere          Renew driver side door grab handle
04.09.12 @12302           Oakmere         Replace door latches (parts warranty)
26.10.12 @14082           Oakmere         Renew passenger side door grab handle

 

I assumed  the Campaign 2011/26 was the replacement to the MY'12 latches.  I can  where a new hole has been poked in the foam access cover.  Interestingly though I still have working door post lock buttons.

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@w022a The latches would have been replaced like for like. That's why I'm not convinced it would possibly resolve an issue. Judging by your time line the latches were replaced under the recall (possibly there wasn't an issue with the latch before) and then replaced again a year later, proving my theory. I get asked every year at MOT if I want the recall work done and I turn it down as I've never experienced an issue. 

The inteva door latches introduced at MY12 seemed to fully resolve any issues and improve feel and latching. The MY13 update of post removal then improved it further by eliminating the chance of sticking rods/post.

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On 1/28/2018 at 15:02, w022a said:

interesting.  so what was the purpose of the Campaign 2011/26 if they were replacing the door latches with exactly the same part?

It seems that there was an issue in the earlier versions of the early latch mechanism that would cause the interior door pull lever to detach from the unit.  I believe from reading the 2011/26 campaign (or rather, it doesn't seem to exist anymore but was superceded) and the parts resulting, it was all around correcting the attachment point between the interior door handle and the latch mechanism.  You can see the document for it here https://c1042593.ssl.cf3.rackcdn.com/58664_1808_LSL594_Evora_door_latch_fitment_guide.pdf

The latch described is definitely not the Inteva latch, but the older latch mechanism.

The Inteva update was not a recall, and as far as anyone knows is not compatible with the older doors.  I think at least once incompatibility is that the passenger side door has a lock/release mechanism that goes through a hole which is not present on the older doors.  It would be an interesting experiment to see how compatible/incompatible they are, but I think nobody has wanted to put up the $ to test it out yet.

On 1/17/2017 at 15:06, Hangar 111 said:

I've not actually done it myself, but advised a customer who did succeed.  He didn't even have to remove the latch mechanism, I believe you can see it in the latch, and I think was able to bend it enough using a small screwdriver or tweezers.

I can see there are two wires coming off it, so you should be able to test the switch is electrically making-breaking when the latch is operated?

Dave

Having had one apart, I don't think that's correct for these early latches.  Maybe the Inteva latches the microswitch is accessible?  The Inteva latches also had microswitch issues from all the discussions on Lotustalk/etc.  So I don't think this particular problem was resolved either way.  You can see the photos I took of the unit here: http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f170/my-s-here-3rd-time-s-charm-416970/index2.html#post5691953

The microswitch seems to be inside the black plastic casing of the latch which is permanently attached to the mechanism as best I can tell.  I don't know any way you could get inside of it without destroying the mechanism.

Edited by esseye
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  • 1 year later...
2017 년 1 월 18 일. 오전 5시 52 분에 Hangar 111은 다음과 같이 말했습니다 :

마이크로 스위치가 작동하지 않습니까? 증거 차는 무엇입니까?

마이크로 스위치가 저격을 받았을 때 - 다시 구급차 정상적인 서비스가 재개되었습니다.

데이브

나는 구부릴 곳을 알고 싶다. 너 나 좀 도와 줄 수있어?

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google translate says.....

"

2 hours ago, Recarosports said:

나는 구부릴 곳을 알고 싶다. 너 나 좀 도와 줄 수있어?

I want to know where to bend. Can you help me?"

The Faster You Drive...The Slower You Age

(Albert Einstein  14 March 1879 - 18 April 1955)

 

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As mentioned above, the micro switch is inside the black plastic housing.  In order to bend the micro switch tang, you would have to either drill the rivets and separate the latch or break the black plastic housing. Doing either may or may not enable you to fix it.

Some of the latch issues appear to be caused by the black plastic cracking and allowing the micro-switch to possibly move or at least not properly activate. For more info see:

https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f170/sourcing-door-latch-microswitch-464658/index3.html

 https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f170/evora-false-driver-s-door-open-pictogram-469346/

 

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Edited by 2011 Chrome Orange
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I still have my old latch which went faulty, so just checked it out of curiosity. I can confirm that mine also had a crack in the same place.

Something tells me that you shouldn't shut the Evora's doors with any greater force than necessarily needed.

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