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finally dyno-tuned it


ragingfool35

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This is great news well done, if you can get the 300 WHP that will be a step up of around 50 bhp at the fly .. Not to be sniffed at .. 

Can i suggest you have a look at the fuel octane ..  in the US your octane levels are 5 - 6 lower than over here.. This will not allow you to advance the ignition enough to get the best without generating detonation / Knock..  As is you are sacrificing  combustion pressure and efficiency.. Try using an octane booster to raise level to 99/100 octane , your dyno tuner may be surprised at what can be achieved..

If your ECU has the facility for multi maps, you can have one for std low octane fueling and one for higher level.. This will stop the knock / detonation destroying you pistons when low octane fitted , then allow instant step up when desired..

A lot also depends on your other tuning mods / air density / charge temperature etc.  but this should help..  again a big well done 

keep up the good work

D    

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thanks Dave, it can do multi maps, that is a good suggestion.  I really am not looking for anything but better than OEM HP, but 300 is a nice round number (even if a different dyno one indicates something else :) )

it literally was 4 hrs of car constantly running (mostly idling) with no fans to cool the engine.  i dont have logs but i bet the MAT was high

chris

90SE

just because I don't CARE doesn't mean I don't UNDERDSTAND

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  • 1 year later...

Curious as to what your spark and VE maps ended up looking like after the Dyno tuned them. I'm running a Megasquirt MS3X with a SWAG ignition map generated from distributor numbers now, and would love to have better spark advance info.  

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i can provide it but be aware 1) the values shown are 2 deg retarded from actual timing due to a now resolved issue with the software 2) i have since massaged many values in the table to achieve better cold start, idle and fuel economy in the cruise area but have not re-tuned or dynod.  unlike Dave's car which spent many days with a tuner, my original tune is a rough tune.  My tuner did not configure multiple tables for modifiers and offsets for example, such as timing and AFR changes for high MAT, or knock retard, etc.  what this means is that the AFR and Ign map was tuned for no knock and best power only at the conditions present that day..  That partially explains why the total timing is so much less than stock.

Cammmy also has an MS ECU and his info is likely of more use and honestly looks more reasonable than mine

 

ign timing after tuning.jpg

VE after tuning.jpg

chris

90SE

just because I don't CARE doesn't mean I don't UNDERDSTAND

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Well, Im going with 'pretty colours" as I have very little (actually it is 'no') knowledge of what the numbers mean.

All we know is that when they stop making this, we will be properly, properly sad.Jeremy Clarkson on the Esprit.

Opinions are like armpits. Everyone has them, some just stink more than others.

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Pretty colors- My 910 with stock cams, head, 8:1 pistons, Aluminox into BW EFR6258 turbo, green dot pulleys, custom intake manifold, sequential injection.  Big numbers are where I tried to replicate OEM vacuum advance on top of mechanical curve. Probably could use some more boost retard as well, but staying with low boost numbers <#10 right now.

EspritAdvance.jpg

Edited by snowrx
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i have also set the EOI to 440 deg @ 1000 rpm and increased by steps to 150 @ 4000.  made a noticeable improvement for idle and also changed the VE values.  many other changes so i need to get it back on dyno.  my VE values majorly changed from 200 to 225 kpa over 5500 rpm to around 110.  without the AFR table, the VE table (and ign table) doesnt mean much.  PM Cammy for his MS tables (though i think his is still configured more stock)

here are the current tables, datalog-approved, but not dyno optimized

 

 

boost table new.jpg

ign table new.jpg

lambda table new.jpg

VE new.jpg

chris

90SE

just because I don't CARE doesn't mean I don't UNDERDSTAND

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thats looking pretty similar so the other 2 tables from our cars can be compared with some expectation of similarity.  those AFRs seem to be procedural values for tuners, not necessarily what is desirable.  probably values at 120 kpa and above should be left alone, but the others are open to preference.  i am shooting for lean economy in the cruise zone for highway trips.  EOI does have significant affect on ign timing and injector pulse time in the lower to mid rpm range.  try changing the setting while car is idling, see what you think.  

since you are tuning it yourself there are a few things to keep in mind with the spark:  the goal is to achieve mpp at optimal deg.  this value, whatever it is, is fixed and needs a dyno to find it.  but if you feel a sweet spot by the seat of your pants (4500 rpm at 160kpa for example), whatever the values are for AFR, advance and VE at that location on the tables,  you can make some reasonable guesses for the rest of the table by these general concepts:

higher RPM=more advance

lower kpa=more advance. 

lower temp=more advance. 

AFR lower than 11=more advance. 

AFR higher than 13.2=more advance.

there is no substitute for a dyno, but logging and comparing the raw knock values after each change can give you a pretty good feel if you are going in the right or wrong direction.

i am struggling with understanding so much advance at idle though.  factory is 8-10 probably for emissions, dont really know.  upto 20 is not uncommon but still seems high.  you can see i have mine 11-13 and fairly lean

Maybe i should add a row for lower kpa value in case car is driven at altitude...i have the barometer connected but selected MAP only.

chris

90SE

just because I don't CARE doesn't mean I don't UNDERDSTAND

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