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Not sure what it's correct name is but bar connects from rear hub to chassis (one either side) Thing is, after putting an axle stand under them, the left one is very slightly bent, is this a problem? dunno if I should go to the obvious grief of trying to remove/straighten this, if it don't really matter. The picture is when I removed the axle stand and put it where I should have in the first place!

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Yes, it's a problem. Depending on how bent it is, it's entirely possible it will have an adverse effect on the rear suspension geometry. Get it replaced, and be careful where you place jacks or axle stands in future.


Margate Exotics.

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Oops. The joy of rear lower links awaits you as a reward :realmad:

One of my lower arms was bent when I bought the car so I had to go through that. I bought new bushes for both sides but needless to say the other side (which wasn't bent) is still on the old bushes...


Not worth starting anything now...🍺

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yes change it. You can drive the car slowly but don't go fast until a new one is fitted. As well as putting the geometry out (probably not that big an effect as I am guessing it was not spot on to start with) you will reduce the load carrying capacity of the piece. They are heavily loaded under hard cornering. There is a story that during the design of the Esprit Chapman made the engineers take weight out of the mounting bracket against the wishes of the engineering team. Apparently it failed so they had to put the weight back in...Chapman jokingly told them not to listen to him again!

The inboard bolts should be easy enough to loosen off. The stud on the outboard end will probably be a right pain. There is a good write up on the Esprit forum on how to undo the lower bolt. On by brothers car it needed lots of heat and plus gas to undo. Do not use a hammer to get it out otherwise you will need a new rear upright as well!

good luck

C43

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Yeah, DON'T bang on the cast hub when changing the lower control arm!!!!!  

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Atwell Haines

'88 Esprit

Succasunna, NJ USA

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19 hours ago, Christian43 said:

yes change it. You can drive the car slowly but don't go fast until a new one is fitted. As well as putting the geometry out (probably not that big an effect as I am guessing it was not spot on to start with) you will reduce the load carrying capacity of the piece. They are heavily loaded under hard cornering. There is a story that during the design of the Esprit Chapman made the engineers take weight out of the mounting bracket against the wishes of the engineering team. Apparently it failed so they had to put the weight back in...Chapman jokingly told them not to listen to him again!

The inboard bolts should be easy enough to loosen off. The stud on the outboard end will probably be a right pain. There is a good write up on the Esprit forum on how to undo the lower bolt. On by brothers car it needed lots of heat and plus gas to undo. Do not use a hammer to get it out otherwise you will need a new rear upright as well!

good luck

C43

As the rear geo is set by shims, it has never been messed with, albeit the front has been set before. Don't see how the load carrying capacity has been reduced though by this arm being slightly bent. 

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Maybe better described as load-bearing capacity.  Bottom line, it's out of spec and will fail under stress long before the other one.


British Ambassador to Florida, New York, Denmark and Newfoundland.  And Sweden.

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Yeah, that makes sense, can these be straightened at all? (shouldn't have jacked up car with a hangover)

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Were it mine, I'd first exhaust all possibilities of acquiring a replacement!

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British Ambassador to Florida, New York, Denmark and Newfoundland.  And Sweden.

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They do bend, and also bend back into place and look ok,  but like any metal pipe that you keep bending backwards and forwards it will of weakened it :(

As the others have said best to play it safe on this one, they are not that expensive 


A

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Available from SJ Sport cars part number - B082D4083K £64.27

Available elsewhere also. :) 


It's getting there......

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On 2/24/2017 at 17:57, silverfrost said:

They do bend, and also bend back into place and look ok,  but like any metal pipe that you keep bending backwards and forwards it will of weakened it :(

As the others have said best to play it safe on this one, they are not that expensive 

If it was an easy job to remove it I most certainly would, but tried yesterday to remove the bolt that goes through the hub carrier/shock and it don't seem to wanna move in any direction, rather not whack it as could break hub. The bend is very slight so will look to straighten it whist in situ. 

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1 hour ago, esprit22 said:

but tried yesterday to remove the bolt that goes through the hub carrier/shock and it don't seem to wanna move in any direction, rather not whack it as could break hub.

Should you ever be tempted to remove the lower link stud I suggest you read this:thumbup:

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Cheers,

John W

http://jonwatkins.co.uk

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Chris as John says above look at the lotus esprit world article,  Yes its an absolute pig of a job when the bottom carrier stud will not budge,  Do not hit anything in that hub area with a hammer !  They are easy damaged by hammer blows and even worse the alloy can fracture from such blows that can be invisible to the eye,  hence why some folks get them x rayed.  

The way i look at it is, you need to replace the bottom arm to be on the safe side, obviously to do this you need to take the bugger off,  It will only be a matter of time until those bushes are the bottom arm will need replacing soon anyway, so its just logical and safer to kill two birds with one stone and play it safe and do some preventative maintianance at the same time to boot.  

I tried to get mine done before christmas but ran out of time, rather than rush the job i thought it best to leave it, Which i think was wise, when i get back to the job in hand, and think yourself lucky as both of mine are seazed solid lol,  I think i will try the lotus esprit world guide way, i.e cutting the stud down into sections, but try Sparkys method on here of pushing them out with a ball joint removal tool, rather than a press or drilling.  Obviously if the ball joint tool does not work i will have to get the drill out !  

Take your time Chris its not a job to be rushed, also i would recommend the SJ upgraded bushes as they are split into 2 halves and will just push in when you fit them.  

Post any dramas you have when doing this as folks on here will happily chip in with tips along the way, but for gods sake keep the big knocking stick in the tool in the tool box, hammers are not required for this job,  Also order a new bottom stud, split washer and nuts, the big stud is about 14 quid from sj :)

Good luck and may the force be with you :thumbup:


A

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These really aren't too bad. You need the carrier off the car and in a vice, and the appropriate nuts, spacers and drifts (maybe a hacksaw), and it should be sorted in a few minutes. 


British Ambassador to Florida, New York, Denmark and Newfoundland.  And Sweden.

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Sparky have you tried one that has sat in a wet,muddy field in the open for 19 years :ermm:


A

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Done some bad ones!  Haven't found one needing a drill yet.  No doubt the next one will make me a liar.

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British Ambassador to Florida, New York, Denmark and Newfoundland.  And Sweden.

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I hope your right Sparky and i do not have to drill will be keeping my fingers and toes crossed when i do them !  I did try and get some movement using the nuts with a knuckle bar but it just stripped the threads, :)

You will of doomed yourself after that last post sparky, good luck with the next one lol,  but the ball joint splitter makes perfect sense and is tried an tested by yourself, just hope it works for mine that are not your normal condtion units by a long way, the car had a bad life :(


A

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3 hours ago, esprit22 said:

If it was an easy job to remove it I most certainly would, but tried yesterday to remove the bolt that goes through the hub carrier/shock and it don't seem to wanna move in any direction, rather not whack it as could break hub. The bend is very slight so will look to straighten it whist in situ. 

Has the axle stand put a dent in the tube?

If it has, straightening it will mean it will be even less strong than it currently is while bent because it will stretch the metal at the dent.

Full marks for fessing up though, usually it would be blamed at someone at Quik Fit etc. :)

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4 minutes ago, Andyww said:

Has the axle stand put a dent in the tube?

If it has, straightening it will mean it will be even less strong than it currently is while bent because it will stretch the metal at the dent.

Yeah, there is a slight dent underneath it, tbh I was surprised that the bar was actually a tube! Got a few weeks until wheels will be back, so may have another go at it, but if it don't wanna move then will go to plan b for time being. Sort of job that requires a decent car lift and proper tools me thinks!

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No way Colin Chapman would of let that bar be designed in solid steel !  We where lucky to get a top suspension arm on later cars  :)


A

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1 hour ago, Sparky said:

Done some bad ones!  Haven't found one needing a drill yet.  No doubt the next one will make me a liar.

 

It appears you have a short memory. Or maybe we were just a bit the worse for wear?


Margate Exotics.

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