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Radius arm removal


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Hi All,

Please save me from going potty!!

I have removed both radius arms from the chassis by very simply undoing the big retaining nut. Sadly the nearside one is toast but the drivers side appears to be painted over galv so in good order.

How the dickens do you get the rest of the gubbins off. According to the manual, you hold the flat sided washer with a 51mm spanner (oh yes, coz I've got a set of those!) and undo the nut inside the chassis.

Also, the 2 retaining bolts that hold the channel shaped plate to the chassis - are these threaded into captive nuts? I can't feel anything behind at all. Feel like they are going to break off which I want to avoid or it will be even more of a bastard.....

I have new bushes to put in but I'm getting to think I'll leave these alone - just seems a shame that, as I've got it all apart, I don't complete the job properly.

Any help would be most appreciated. Thanks

On a positive note, rear fuel line and cut-off valve are fitted. Electronic SU style pump on its way from Paul Matty.

Cheers

Ant

Is the price for that bit in Yen or £?

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Hi Ant

Looking at the diagram from the service manual it looks like there should be a nut and large washer on the end of that stud. Might it be possible to "jam" something between the channel edge and the top of the flat washer/stud just to stop it moving while you loosen the inside nut?

My guess on the channel/reinforcing plate nuts is that they go into a threaded hole in the chassis. If I come across a stubborn nut/bolt i use plenty of Plus gas and then gently tighten it first then try and undo it, works for me.

58cac7226cc36_radiusarm009.jpg.fd4c668e140d4ec05ea860c6ea9a208f.jpg

 

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Cheers Roland,

The inner nut on the long stud will come undone one way or another - I can get a socket on to it.

It's the little buggers that hold the plate on that are a real pain. I have soaked it all in WD40 and will leave over night.

Have managed to get a decent replacement from LB for the nearside - not galv but I can't run to that at the moment - I've a tin of waxoil so I'm planning to fill it with some of that.

Thanks for the ideas - will keep persevering!

Ant

Is the price for that bit in Yen or £?

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 The other way is the two nut method.  On the outside run two nuts on the stud and tighten them together you can then use a normal spanner to counter hold the outside while you loosen the nut on the inside.

Never been much of a fan of WD,  Plus Gas always seems to work better

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I did this very job last week. You shouldn't have to remove the long stud before shifting the whole assembly. Those two bolts on the reinforcing plate do indeed go to captive nuts - fortunately mine came off very easily - then the entire assembly lifts out; stud, rubber and all. Then you can use your 52mm spanner on the bench. In order to get the radius arms off the stud while still on the chassis I found it was vital to jack the arm up so the stud was horizontal. Then wrap two hands round the radius arm and tug...and hope your axle stands are securely positioned!

Regular restorer. Rather less reliable forum poster!

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Thanks Dan - that's really helpful. As I have the radius arms off already, in theory then it should be straightforward.

cue snapped bolts! :cry:

Roland, the radius arm sits on the stud and bush - this is essentially clamped to the chassis by the plate at the front and the big washer at the back. There is so much play given by the large bush that I think the plate does little but keep it clamped together - therefore reducing any direct stress. If it were rigid, I would agree that this wouldn't be very strong.

Cheers

Ant

Is the price for that bit in Yen or £?

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1 hour ago, Trunnion 74 said:

Dan,

are you saying that the reinforcing plate and the bush are only held in place by the two bolts?

That's exactly what I'm saying. Two bolts with spring washers. And on one side of mine not even the reinforcing plate - my PO liked to live dangerously, other components offered as alternative suspension solutions include bits of copper central heating fitting as spacers. Once the bush is off there's just a big hole in the side of the chassis through to the prop shaft. 

Regular restorer. Rather less reliable forum poster!

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Well the plot thickens!

Following all advice here, I have managed to undo the accessible bolt on the rear edge of the plate and also the rear nut from the bush stud but there is absolutely zero space to get a decent spanner on the front bolt owing to the closeness of the bodyshell. I have rung off the corners on the D/S fitting and now really struggling. Don't want to use heat (fibreglass and big rubber bush etc) so I've just soaked it all in WD40 again and hoping for the best tomorrow when maybe I come up with an idea and also don't feel like tracking down the genius who designed a perishable suspension item that realistically needs chassis removal before you can replace it.

No disrespect to anyone formerly in charge of doing this car but just another couple of mm clearance would have made all the difference - either that or putting removable nuts on the back!!

No doubt I'll get around this and cheer up eventually but feeling pretty pee'd off at the moment - I don't mind having to restore or replace all the necessary bits but sometimes the design makes doing this really difficult!

Have a good weekend all :angry:

Is the price for that bit in Yen or £?

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Are you any further forward? I'll be back under there today and haven't refitted anything yet so I'll grab some photos of how all mine came apart. 

Regular restorer. Rather less reliable forum poster!

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Cheers Dan, I've pretty much got it apart so I know how it works, I just cannot for the life of me get the front most bolt out - the body is so close I can't get my ratchet ring spanner on. The bolt is a bit mullered now - think I might be drilling an access hole from inside the car to get onto it better but I'm really not keen on ending up with a bodyshell like swiss cheese! The bolt itself hasn't been fully tightened but has seized into the position - if it had been tightened fully, I suspect a spanner may have just fitted. Will keep trying.

Thanks

Ant

Is the price for that bit in Yen or £?

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Hi Ant, I don't get that at all! Once the radius arms were off I could get a socket on both of the bolts that mount the bush to the chassis. I think I'm out of useful advice now, sorry! Dan

Regular restorer. Rather less reliable forum poster!

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Ant from what you are describing ,  i.e the inner nut from the stud you have undone ,  And the stud is stuck and the nut does not want to come off on the outside,  Is there any way of tapping a punch from the inside to enable you to shove the stud and siezed bolt outwards ?  Then you could use a hacksaw blade to cut the stud and pull the radius arm out.  And then deal with the issue with more room.  

May be a now go due to room on the inside of the chassis, just putting it out there :)

A

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Dan,

I've got the stud out but am left with the front channel (clamp) plate and the rubber bush which are still attached by the errant bolt that I can't remove.

A photo will help to describe but not to remove the bolt I fear!! :rant:

Is the price for that bit in Yen or £?

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58cd2f16597b5_suspensionbush.JPG.7a9f682cf18e572e5cf4e7f1df0cde9e.JPG58cd2f0ad0a3e_suspensionbush2.jpg.a968fe7bcc9184fc5e58b7c674400386.jpg

I can't really make more access unless I cut through the body tub (not particularly keen!). RH photo is the one I've not got the stud out of and haven't tackled the bolts yet. Apologies for it being the wrong way and thanks for all the help and support - much appreciated.

Is the price for that bit in Yen or £?

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I see your point Ant ,  First thing i would do was get some mole grips attached to the out plate that i bent and wiggle it until it snaps an is out of the way, because it would do my head in lol.  

 , 3 ways you can deal with this imo,  Both not quick,  You could use a hack saw blade to cut directly through the bush  and inner collar so its flush with the chassis to give you better to get at the bolt. So you can then get some decent mole grips on it. 

Or invest in a dremel and use the cutting discs to cut the mount off, leaving the bolt with a little metal underneath it,  You have to be carefull on the cutting though as not to cut the chassis ,  then just pull the lot out of the way and get mole grips on the siezed bolt. 

The other option, would be to get a decent lever underneath the side where the bolt has come out, and lever it up,  not sure how deep these run on the other side though, so may not lift up, But pry bar ut up and bend it, and try and turn it, it could free off the other bolt, Like i said i am not sure how deep the other side goes in, so it may not pull past,   Then if it does not free of the bolt, you can always keep bending it until the mount metal snaps off,  May be quicker than the last two options, but only if it can be pulled out to manhandle it. :)

 

 

A

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Well, I've now got the passenger side stud and rear bolt off, leaving the same scenario (but without a knackered remaining bolt).

Main problem is just not being able to get anything on to the bolt - I have managed to get some mole grips onto the knackered one but only at an angle which doesn't help.

There is no obvious access from inside without stripping out the rear seats which I really don't want to do - I just want to get the bloody thing running!

The biggest bugger is that both of the bushes look in reasonable nick but as I have replacements, I'm adopting the @mikeeech of 'while I'm there', which has to make sense!

I have to replace the drivers side now come what may but I'm beginning to think I'll leave the NS - it just wrankles me to be beaten by a car!

@directordanw - I wonder if the S2 had a modified bodyshell at this point for exactly this reason?

Is the price for that bit in Yen or £?

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I see what you mean about wanting to just leave the bushes and put back together but it has shown a problem, and even if your bushes are decent, they will need changing at some point, knowing a lotus it will be at the least appropriate time lol.  So i would say get them changed know and get the bugger off.  

Are the bolt heads knackered i.e if you got a socket on then would they just round off the edges,  I cant see why you cant get a socket in there ?  I have plenty of extentions for reasons like this from 20mm upwards, gives you the choice when short sockets are too short and long re to long,  i.e you add a very short extension to the socket if that makes sense :)

A

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58cd59ad489e0_spannergap.jpg.5882ba3a0c3d7a3cd219823810d546a3.jpg

Beginning to think some fibreglass adjustment is the only option.

Am I the first person to do this in a S1 and have this issue? I wonder if the S1 chassis is different - obviously mine (being galv) is an S2.

Is the price for that bit in Yen or £?

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