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S4s temperature control cable broken - Page 2 - Interior/Exterior/Lights/Glass/Alarms/ICE/HVAC - The Lotus Forums Jump to content
Giniw

S4s temperature control cable broken

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Thanks :)

58 minutes ago, ian29gte said:

at the charge cooler radiator itself, if you can get to it.

Well that is a good question, because it looks hidden behind the engine coolant radiator if I am not wrong. Does the front bumper need to be removed to access it? (I will have to flip my indicators anyway, they are mounted the wrong way ...)

iHJD

 

(As for the valve photos, please don't hesitate to ask me if I forget, my car is not at my place right now so I won't be able to take them before Wednesday.)

Edited by Giniw

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The charge cooler radiator is the heat exchanger right at the front. Behind it are the two condensers, then the engine coolant radiator.


Margate Exotics.

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Yes that was what I meant when I said behind the engine radiator, I implied that it was behind what you see when under the car.
So, all the others radiator need to be removed before accessing the pipes attached to the chargecooler radiator?! (Or maybe the front boot floor can be removed to access them?)

Edited by Giniw

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I think you can access the charge-cooler radiator hoses by removing the GRP panel below them, but I can't remember without looking. If not, you can remove the rubber hoses where the the alloy charge-cooler pipes exit the front of the chassis.


Margate Exotics.

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Your charge cooler radiator is accessible by removing the front splitter various plastic covers then the lower valance. The main cooling duct and radiator housing can stay in situ.

FB_IMG_1485641505360.jpg.3ff5935a211b703b825dba408f9c2b1c.jpg

This is a V8, it doesn't have the chargecooler radiator, on your car it would be sat in front of the air-con condensers, the only difference is, your oil cooler pipe runs through the front compartment whereas on the V8 it runs under the radiator, my cooling duct has been dropped to access the radiator but you don't need to go that far.

Steve

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Thank you very much @ian29gte and @Steve V8:)

(I haven't checked but if I remember well I think the procedures about that sort of things are better explained in the Elan manual, that is strange)

Edited by Giniw

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You should be able to access the pipes to the chargecooler radiator from the left front wheelwell. That's about the lowest point you'll find, to get even more out, tilt the car to one side (jack up the other one). When I last did a cambelt en waterpomp, I put (controlled) pressurized air into the cooling system. Disconnect the bleed pipe at the header tank for the air supply and connect another short tube in it's place to drain the coolant into a reservoir. Work a treat, without any spillage, but you won't get everything out. I was cautious for airlocks, but never had any problems, only needed to top up once after the first run out. 


I have made many mistakes in my life. Buying a multiple Lotus is not one of them.

 

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In addition to what Filip said, I just checked my photos, and you can access the charge-cooler hoses at the lowest point, after you drop the LH GRP undershield to access them, or on the charge-cooler itself if you go further. But you won't be able to drain the system fully just by removing them.

unspecified.jpg

unspecified.jpg


Margate Exotics.

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Hello Everyone,
Very slow progress on that subject (totally idling if I am being honest) but at least I took a photo of where is located the valve on a LHD car if anyone is interested.
Here it is:

N3Ny.jpg

Edited by Giniw

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And I wish you the very best of luck getting to that 


Only here once

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24 minutes ago, Barrykearley said:

And I wish you the very best of luck getting to that 

 

Dunno what all the fuss is about. :rolleyes:

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Margate Exotics.

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On 4/2/2017 at 06:32, Giniw said:

I managed to access to the water valve and to operate it manually. It was a bit hard to move at first but it's now much better. Of course the cable is still broken but I will order one soon. I will post a few photos later.

Anyway, now that the heater valve is in the hot position I tried to flush better the coolant.

When I first flushed it with the heater valve in the cold position, only around 10.5 litre of water sprung out. I was surprised but I thought the rest was stuck because of the closed water valve. Now that it's in the hot position, less than 0.5 litre of water sprung out.

So ... I am wondering if it's normal?! Isn't the Esprit supposed to have a 18 litre coolant capacity?! I understand that I dropped a bit of water on the floor but nowhere near 7 litre . And I find it suspicious that around 7 litre remain stuck in the lower areas of the pipes and engine.

So, is it normal that only around 11 litre come out when flushing the car? Do I need to blow air somewhere in a pipe?

Thanks in advance

Can you describe how you managed to access the water valve?  I can see it through the fuse box hole but cannot reach it, I’m considering cutting an access panel.  Am I missing something?

86C1C574-2CAD-40B7-A175-5277290962A1.jpeg

159EC0A5-BF1D-475F-925F-95D86C5D211F.png

Edited by wohlmeyer

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Well "access" may be too strong a word, the best I did so far (yes it's been a while already but anyway) is to put my hand on it though the hole that can be seen above on the photo, and operate the lever manually.

At first when I started the car the radiator remained cold but then later on an other occasion when I took the car out for a little test drive I noticed I had plenty of heat that came to the cabin so I suspect the hot water is circulating through it now.

I will probably put that back in on piece "soon" but that remains relatively low on my priorities for now.

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William, if you check page 53 of my refurb thread there might be some helpful information there.

In my case the original Ranco valve in your photos had been disconnected by someone unknown (presumably because it was U/S), and it had been replaced by a basic heater valve, the stem of which was leaking coolant.  NB - Part of the Ranco valve is a capillary tube sensor which disappears into the heater casing, and the original assembly is NLA. This is supposed to provide some kind of rudimentary control to smooth the heat delivery. I will leave it up to other Esprit owners to decided how successful it is, as I've never experienced a working Ranco. With the help of @swindon_alanfor the electrics, I removed the green cable and gear assembly, and replaced my leaky valve with an electric solenoid, so it's either on, or off. The heater control panel fascia looks the same as it was before, and I found this to be a good solution for my personal needs.

https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/solenoid-operated-onoff-heater-valve

As for access, I assume your car is LHD, so is a mirror image of RHD. In this case, you need to remove the driver's seat, assume the Lotus position (preferably with an assistant standing by to hand you tools and moral support) and just get in there!

 


Margate Exotics.

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For reference as per Ian's mod:

------------------------------------------------

http://cpc.farnell.com/lorlin/rms1035/rotary-switch-dpst-solder-terminal/dp/SW03716

Lorlin RMS1035. PDF spec attached. Rated at 10A at 12VDC which should be a silly ample margin on the solenoid. As you say, CBS do not give a rating. I would go with a 3A inline fuse. If it blows then up it to 5A but I'm pretty sure it won't.

Just about the same (original/Lorlin) dimensions:

Shaft 6.2/6.0
Shaft length 21/38 - it's plastic so you can cut it down
Thread length 11/8
Thread diameter 12.5/M10 - will work with shakeproof/star washers

Nothing comes with a shaft button like that so you could drill it and either tap it with a grub screw or glue a bit of dowel etc. in.

You can tap off a positive feed for the solenoid switch from the (presumably spade) same panel heater fan switch - that's ignition fed, see attached wiring diagram. It's a yellow/light green wire according to the manual but that's no guarantee it will be on yours! That's already protected by a 15A fuse so also good. The other side you need to find an earth point or a black wire to terminate into.

Lorlin RMS.pdf

Heater valve wiring.jpg

----------

Ian said:

Wiring is done, I piggy-backed on the fan positive, and the cigar lighter negative. Just need to fit the knob to the switch and wire it up when it arrives. Hopefully I should be able to find some way of doing it.

Switches arrived today, I reckon with some mastic, a run through the original knob with an M4 tap, and a cone-point M4 grub screw, it will be fine. Just have the dimple the shaft for the grub screw, and might have to cut the shaft down to length a little.

Tested the new solenoid, heard it clicking, so I guess that's working. Hoses sorted where I looped them to run the engine, and no coolant shower, either.


I tempted fate...now my Esprit V8 IS in bits...(sob)

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Well thanks for all the advice.  Ian I looked at your refurb manual as well.  Since I’m not British, I’m afraid I’m going to have to do this the caveman way rather than the British way.  I’m going to power saw my way through and make a handy access panel because I’m not going to turn what should be a simple repair into a week long adventure simply because Lotus forgot to add an access port.  I’m going to help Lotus with that problem by engineering my own access with some handy dandy power tools.

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I wonder why they did not put an access hole in the first place, apparently there was one on the Giugiaro cars.

Anyway, please don't hesitate to post a few photos of the modification!

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20 hours ago, wohlmeyer said:

Well thanks for all the advice.  Ian I looked at your refurb manual as well.  Since I’m not British, I’m afraid I’m going to have to do this the caveman way rather than the British way.  I’m going to power saw my way through and make a handy access panel because I’m not going to turn what should be a simple repair into a week long adventure simply because Lotus forgot to add an access port.  I’m going to help Lotus with that problem by engineering my own access with some handy dandy power tools.

 

I do think it’s a shame you’ve decided to go down the American route instead of the British one William. What exactly is the problem with the valve?


Margate Exotics.

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8 hours ago, Chillidoggy said:

 

I do think it’s a shame you’ve decided to go down the American route instead of the British one William. What exactly is the problem with the valve?

There is nothing wrong with the valve, the cable is binding up somewhere as it has broken off the temperature selector knob and won’t budge.  I can’t move the cable in or out, even with pliers but I can easily move the valve with the tip of my finger.  When I pull the valve to the heated position as soon as I let my finger off of it, it snaps back to a center position presumably due to torsion on the cable.  I’ve decided the cable needs replacing but I cannot reach any of the screws or nuts on the valve control mechanism in order to release the cable.

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6 hours ago, wohlmeyer said:

There is nothing wrong with the valve, the cable is binding up somewhere as it has broken off the temperature selector knob and won’t budge.  I can’t move the cable in or out, even with pliers but I can easily move the valve with the tip of my finger.  When I pull the valve to the heated position as soon as I let my finger off of it, it snaps back to a center position presumably due to torsion on the cable.  I’ve decided the cable needs replacing but I cannot reach any of the screws or nuts on the valve control mechanism in order to release the cable.

 

Having ripped out the dreaded green cable, it's very stiff (which it has to be), but also very long. If the LHD mirrors the RHD car, then from the control, it will curl over to your passenger side, then disappear behind the heater casing before emerging on the opposite side in the vicinity of the Ranco valve. You may have already considered this, but could find where it is kinked/binding, and perhaps shorten it?

There is some info on the web about the Ranco valves, but nothing that would help your cable job.


Margate Exotics.

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2 hours ago, Chillidoggy said:

 

Having ripped out the dreaded green cable, it's very stiff (which it has to be), but also very long. If the LHD mirrors the RHD car, then from the control, it will curl over to your passenger side, then disappear behind the heater casing before emerging on the opposite side in the vicinity of the Ranco valve. You may have already considered this, but could find where it is kinked/binding, and perhaps shorten it?

There is some info on the web about the Ranco valves, but nothing that would help your cable job.

Yeah I will give it all another go before I decide to cut.  If I do decide to cut, I’m going to take it to a body shop and have it professionally done as well as an access cover made so that it looks like it came out of Hethal that way.

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38 minutes ago, wohlmeyer said:

Yeah I will give it all another go before I decide to cut.  If I do decide to cut, I’m going to take it to a body shop and have it professionally done as well as an access cover made so that it looks like it came out of Hethal that way.

 

Success depends on how limber you are, how much manual dexterity you have in your hands, the length of your fingers, which Esprit-modified tools you use, and how much determination you have. Shame you're not in the UK, you could have contracted our resident gynecologist @Sparky at Watford Exotics to do the job!

Whatever, I wish you luck with it, it's a tough one.

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Margate Exotics.

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