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alias23

alias23 aka Kung Fu Panda - Modified Exige V6

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On 22/08/2017 at 21:04, GFWilliams said:

My reason for going for the B5 was my car was mainly a road car for me and the B5 works better with regular seatbelts.

just to be sure to understand correctly ... B5s are supposed to fit stock runners and stock seat belt anchorages ? 

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Just now, French Frie said:

just to be sure to understand correctly ... B5s are supposed to fit stock runners and stock seat belt anchorages ? 

On the B5 drivers seat you keep the stock runners then bolt their frame adapter to it to make their seat fit on original runners.

On the B5 passenger seat you use a tillett frame.

Both of these have a way of fitting either the standard seatbelt or harnesses.

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ok, thanks George ... so it needs a frame adapter though ? it'd be cool to retain the same bolting points ... are you very positive about these seats as Imran is ? I don't find the stock seats uncomfortable, but unsupportive and not vertical enough to support the back correctly... and of course, too high (it ruins the sporty feeling, to me) !

 

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2 hours ago, French Frie said:

ok, thanks George ... so it needs a frame adapter though ? it'd be cool to retain the same bolting points ... are you very positive about these seats as Imran is ? I don't find the stock seats uncomfortable, but unsupportive and not vertical enough to support the back correctly... and of course, too high (it ruins the sporty feeling, to me) !

 

George best to comment on the B5 as he's done a fair few miles in them... however my understanding is that as standard the seat has a more laid back pitch, therefore if you want a more vertical back you'd simply just bolt the seat in at a different angle most likely one bolt hole higher on the rear than the front on the side mounts. The cool thing about the Tilletts are that the combinations of position are generally all possible just takes time to figure out and test whats best for you and your requirements.

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7 hours ago, French Frie said:

ok, thanks George ... so it needs a frame adapter though ? it'd be cool to retain the same bolting points ... are you very positive about these seats as Imran is ? I don't find the stock seats uncomfortable, but unsupportive and not vertical enough to support the back correctly... and of course, too high (it ruins the sporty feeling, to me) !

 

I couldn't live with the standard seats.  And yes, frame adapter is needed with Tilletts. Speak to Tillett and they'll explain exactly what you need, fantastic company!

There are of course positives and negatives of original seats and tilletts.

Tilletts are more challenging to get into due to the hard edges. Standard seats arguably better looking and maybe more comfortable for larger gentlemen?  

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A little addition that should finalise my pursuit for the perfect position and heel/toe. Hope to install this week and test on the 10th Nov at Donington.

IMG_8005.thumb.JPG.c45f769ae5bcb4c64500238ad3c6c905.JPG


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SRP Pedals installed and a quick test drive and I can positively say a good improvement. Here's how the install went and some lessons learnt!

First of all this is a PITA to fit, not because of any specific technicalities but more a case of having to work in such a confined and awkward location of the car. Its a taster class to training to be a contortionist! Following the instructions you use a 3.5mm drill bit to drill the rivets out which then allows you to pull off the original pedals.

5a00e17c898fb_SPDPedals1.jpg.02883390e6dfa5c2a680cd0546405add.jpg

Take your time, I don't know if it was because I was being impatient or if the awkward angles contributed to me breaking two drill bits! The first being stuck in the pedal which took me an hour to get out!

I do stress care and safety when you're head first in the foot well, drilling with one hand, then trying to hold the pedal with the other, one small slip and you could find you have a whole in your hand, or in the case of my second broken drill bit a near hole in my face. So please take care. Based on the instructions, you should then be able to prise off the original pedals. Problem is they're stuck on with some industrial strength glue which makes it near impossible! Too much force and you can bend the pedal arm. After an hour of trying (again the position makes it very difficult) I gave up for the night.

Next morning popped to ScrewFix and bought myself a £15 heat gun. After blasting the pedals (one by one) with the highest heat for about seven minutes you start to hear the glue sizzle which is when you can simply pull them off with ease with a set of water pump pliers. You can not do this install without a heat gun - Period! Goes without saying be careful with the heat gun and the original pedals its very easy to forget they'll be blisteringly hot and you try and take them off with your hands!

IMG_8014.jpg.7ea2b6318c38eeb7e821ff33a00891a3.jpgIMG_8045.jpg.4c57a323d192b336444920abb2371cfe.jpg

As you can tell the throttle pedal is significantly larger than OEM and has a longer width at the bottom to further support H&T. I opted to fix the throttle pedal at the middle settings (as per the pic), I also decided to add a shim (supplied in kit) under the brake pedal. This seemed to be well recommended by other owners in the states as the shims allow you to get a better height relationship between brake and throttle during downshift. These pedals are fully adjustable be it shifting the pedal further to the left or right or adding or removing shims to vary height based on your preference.

A quick test drive tonight and I am impressed and find this a useful addition. I started to find with my new Piloti boots the narrower sole was causing me to miss pressing the throttle during downshift, or i'd be too far off the brake that i'd hit the throttle but not have enough grip or sole to really press down on the brake. This has fixed that problem for me, however it comes at a price, these are not cheap pedals and taking in to account delivery and customs etc... you're looking at circa £180 which is a crazy amount given its just a bit of bent and CNC'd aluminium but I'm happy with the end result.

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I still think there's nothing wrong with the standard pedals once you've got used to them, just most people on here don't drive their cars enough to get the hang of it!

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6 minutes ago, GFWilliams said:

I still think there's nothing wrong with the standard pedals once you've got used to them, just most people on here don't drive their cars enough to get the hang of it!

Maybe... but you have to admit not many folks doing the mileage you are ;)


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Nice write up mate!

However, your article has convinced me not to do the swap...looks like a real headache (literally!!!)

Well done on persevering though, and much kudos for the job. 

 

I guess I’ll have to look at other options to change the pedal setup- I find the brake pedal too high for h&t (and maybe the throttle bit too far away). 

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So whilst the misses locks into Strictly, then XFactor, then Celebrity Get Me Out of Here - I begin my winter diet program!

Last night I shed about 5Kg of weight by removing the rear sound insulation, plastic trim, and speakers. The sound insulation alone weighed 2.4Kg!

Insulation.jpg.a6a97c6ac7857ce4944ce7fbb116f693.jpg

Time will tell if the rear plastic panel trim goes back in minus the speakers (with blank plates) as it does make the interior of the car look quite cold and #BecauseRaceCar. However I am quite excited about 'hearing' how the car will now sound with the like of all the sound insulation and going back to the bare aluminium. I'll look to remove the front speakers and head unit hopefully later this week.

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Items to change to shed some weight

Battery and carrier almost 16kgs

Forged wheels about 8 kgs

Alloy belled front discs about 1kg

Alloy hi capacity tank about 4 kgs ( not when full obviously)

Boot carpet and sound material about 1.5 kgs

Rear engine cover Glass kgs????

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I've got the alloy discs front and back as part of the KoBra 4 brake upgrade so forgot that little extra weight saving. Im guessing front and back combined circa 2Kg unsprung.

Battery is on the cards over winter. Pound for Pound the best weight saving upgrade available for sure! Also wheels when money permits hopefully before next track season.

Hadn't realised the boot carpet and sound deadening would add up to over a 1Kg. Likely will leave as is, as I do use the boot for storage. 

 


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@alias23 how and where do the 5th and 6th straps attach to the floor?

1 hour ago, alias23 said:

Time will tell if the rear plastic panel trim goes back in minus the speakers (with blank plates)

What are you making the blank plates from? I really dislike the front speaker covers in my cup - was thinking a matt carbon blanking plate would be so much nicer, but no idea how or where to get made.

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$80 + duty + delivery for a few discs of cf??!? Wow, you must really want them for that price. I suspect that eBay + dremmel would produce a much more cost effective option. 

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3 hours ago, 550superfast said:

@alias23 how and where do the 5th and 6th straps attach to the floor?

What are you making the blank plates from? I really dislike the front speaker covers in my cup - was thinking a matt carbon blanking plate would be so much nicer, but no idea how or where to get made.

Ill try and get some under the floor pictures but its pretty much a case of bolting right through the floor with mountings underneath and some big bolts.

All supplied by Schroth as part of the 6pt strap kit. 

In terms of the blanking plates, I believe they need to be laser cut, I'm not too fussed about carbon, more a case of happy with a nice satin/matt black finish. So i'll be looking to get some 3mm aluminium discs cut then powder coated. I hope to get the front speakers and head unit out tonight to measure up blanking plates to be ordered this week.


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