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Jussi

Flap valve actuator

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Hi Teigan.. I havent got that far yet.. I just mapped the system so I could understand it better. My car is in process of restoration so havnt done anything on that system yet. All I know is its gonna get removed, except for critical parts

The RO valve is a good idea to keep, otherwise the vents need to vent to the underside of the car so that in case of a roll over (heaven forbid), and the car is inverted, fuel wont drain out the vents.

Also IMO, that bloody fuel vapor recover tank is a fire hazard.

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My car behave's quite "power loss" now from 2500-3000rpm. Before it was something like that also but not in that remarkable :huh:

There's some pitching when you're driving steadily in that range :D

So after we removed the emission stuff do we have to do some tuning for carburetors or what?? Seems like the car want's now more fuel... When you hit the gas from that range car think's for a while before it goes.

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Guest teigan

not a bad idea to rebalance the carbs, but your symptoms sound more serious. check your fuel system and vaccuum lines. when you hit the gas pedal, does the turbo kick in?

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Jussi it does sound like a lean surge condition.

What colour are the sparkplugs?(do they indicate a lean condition?)

Did you re-set the ignition timing correctly?(advanced enough?)

Is your new fuel pump working O.K.? (plenty of pressure/ Volume)

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Turbo kicks fine.

Ignition timing checked several times.

Fuel pump seems to work Ok.

Better check timing again. Can't see problem cause car behaves on other range just fine, only 2500-3000rpm. is the problem. And when I hit the gas turbo kicks and then we go...

What about flap valve, could it make any difference (cause it was half close when we took it away). My mechanic thinks there's something with vacuum (cause it's the range when turbo isn't yet working). :huh:

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Guest teigan

i'm not a real mechanic, but my vivid imagination tells me you overlooked something when removing the emissions system. you're lucky i have multiple personality disorder.

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Are you suggesting we took out something we shouldn't :huh:

How's your car behave from 2000-3000rpm. range, especially if you drive steadily (some minutes on that range)?

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Guest teigan

no problems noticable at that range jussi. i am almost always in that range around town, to get the best gas mileage. your symptoms are not normal for this engine. the turbo is very twitchy sometimes but only due to the driver being unsmooth with the accelerator pedal. wrap a vacuum gauge into the cockpit, and tell me what happens when you step on the accelerator.

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My car behave's quite "power loss" now from 2500-3000rpm. Before it was something like that also but not in that remarkable :)

There's some pitching when you're driving steadily in that range :)

So after we removed the emission stuff do we have to do some tuning for carburetors or what?? Seems like the car want's now more fuel... When you hit the gas from that range car think's for a while before it goes.

Jussi,

What was the solution to this issue? I seem to have something quite similar happening on my car after a recent engine rebuild. Perhaps I have a few vacuum lines connected incorrectly?

Thanks,

Rory.

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It just get better :( Time to time it behaves like I told last year. So actually no cure :(

Removing the cat helped a lot, actually haven't notice this "power loss" for some time now :(

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Can't believe it would be vapour lock. It behaved that way last autumn (temperature below +10celsius).

But compartment cooling fan has life of his own, sometime it starts when I start the car (in cold) :( Must be broken sensor, was it near the fan and is it easy to find replacement for it?

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The sensor is up in the engine cover.

If I recall correctly its a smallish black box with slots cut into it for the heat to actuate a bi-mettalic strip

Mines OK so I havent had to find a new one (yet) :unsure:

Edited by WayneB

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