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Headlight Indicator LED not working after visit to dealer


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Hi all,

Looking for some advice. Basically my AC condenser went and I asked my local Lotus service centre to replace it. In doing so they needed to remove the clam and subsequently the headlights. I called them to check when the car would be ready and they said it's all back together just the indicator in the headlamp isn't on "could just be a cable not plugged in". 1 hour later I get a call saying that they've checked the wiring it's fine but the indicator is still not working - they said they will call Lotus on Monday, and that potentially I would need a new headlight. I'm not keen on forking out £800 when my headlight was perfectly ok when I dropped it off - in fact they MOT'd it a few days back so they know it was all in working order. 

My questions are what do you think they could have done to cause the LED indicator to go? And whose liability is it now?

Many thanks in advance,

Az

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Are you talking about the LED ring next to the headlight bulb or the turn signal LEDs? The LED rings are known to go out (there's a thread about making replacements), but it seems odd timing. I've had the headlights out in my car many times and never had issues with lights not working when it's refitted. 

 

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It's the turn signal that's not working. Not sure what the dealer did - they were working fine before they touched them. They might have done something silly when they were plugging it back it causing it turn signal LEDs to blow.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have a similar issue with my 2010 Evora. the right side front indicator works, but occasionally doesn't (and the blinking speed increases a lot). Seems to fix itself when the car is cooled down...I'm thinking is just a solder or connector problem? 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 5/25/2017 at 13:47, Local Gardener said:

I agree sounds like a dry solder joint.  I did have an Evora 2010 in my view a better car sorted car

 

 

Is there a way to diy solder the joint? I am experienced in diy electronic soldering but would hope to learn more before having the car up and starting the job 

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6 hours ago, brienchia said:

Is there a way to diy solder the joint? I am experienced in diy electronic soldering but would hope to learn more before having the car up and starting the job 

You'll want to remove the headlight assembly, and gently heat the joint where the lens meets the housing using a hair dryer or heat gun on low. Slowly separate the lens while heating and working your way around the perimeter. Once it's off, you can remove the inner fascia/divider, and you'll see the turn signal. The cable is connected from the bottom side, so you'll have to remove the turn signal board in order to work on it. This requires a torx security bit to not only remove the turn signal assembly from the housing, but also to remove the turn signal diffuser from the pcb. 

Keep in mind the turn signal pcb is aluminum-backed, in addition to an aluminum heatsink that's riveted. This means heating any of the solder pads is extremely difficult unless you have a high-temp iron, as the board and heatsink will wick away heat faster than you can apply it. 

I posted some interior headlight assembly pictures here. I have my spare in pieces at the moment if you have any questions or need specific images. 

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17 hours ago, agentdr8 said:

You'll want to remove the headlight assembly, and gently heat the joint where the lens meets the housing using a hair dryer or heat gun on low. Slowly separate the lens while heating and working your way around the perimeter. Once it's off, you can remove the inner fascia/divider, and you'll see the turn signal. The cable is connected from the bottom side, so you'll have to remove the turn signal board in order to work on it. This requires a torx security bit to not only remove the turn signal assembly from the housing, but also to remove the turn signal diffuser from the pcb. 

Keep in mind the turn signal pcb is aluminum-backed, in addition to an aluminum heatsink that's riveted. This means heating any of the solder pads is extremely difficult unless you have a high-temp iron, as the board and heatsink will wick away heat faster than you can apply it. 

I posted some interior headlight assembly pictures here. I have my spare in pieces at the moment if you have any questions or need specific images. 

Thank you so much. What sealant  would you recommend to reseal after job is complete? 

Just now, brienchia said:

Thank you so much. What sealant  would you recommend to reseal after job is complete? 

Oh yeah forgot to ask, do I need to test the circuitry individually with a meter or is this a known fault with a particular joint? A photo would be really helpful here. Thanks so much 

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4 hours ago, brienchia said:

Thank you so much. What sealant  would you recommend to reseal after job is complete? 

Oh yeah forgot to ask, do I need to test the circuitry individually with a meter or is this a known fault with a particular joint? A photo would be really helpful here. Thanks so much 

Any automotive-grade butyl sealant should work, although if you don't make a huge mess when separating the lens, you shouldn't need any. Just reheat the seam and press the lens onto the housing and the existing goo should be sufficient.

It would probably make sense to at least test the turn signal while you have the assembly apart. +12V to red, and one of the black wires is ground (the other is LED failure sensor). 

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4 hours ago, Local Gardener said:

Hi all

Just had cost back to replace the Headlight £8-900 and that's just the unit not including fitting it. Does anyone know if the headlights changed from series 1 to the 400 and the part numbers 

The 400s I've seen in person have the newer headlights that don't have the "Lotus" name/logo embossed in the lower corner of the turn signal. I think it's fairly hard to get the original ones with the logo brand new, so you might have to look at 2nd hand options if it matters to you.

 

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