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Clutch fork - slave cylinder adjustment


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Hi all, I've been trawling the forum to find out how to adjust the clutch in relation to the slave cylinder and fork with no success. Question is : should the release bearing have contact with the clutch or not ? My last bearing lasted 400km and was probably set to close, now I can just move the fork about 2 to 3mm with out the release bearing making contact, is this OK ?

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The reason you can not find any info on how to adjust the clutch is because they are self adjusting.. as long as everything is assembled correct it will all align and adjust as required..  The adjust

I ran a pheasant over yesterday. Can anyone tell me how to cook it?

The adjuster does not affect the throw of the fork.  Set it to spec and leave it there, forever.  Pump the clutch pedal a few times. Can you now rattle the fork a tiny little bit?  If so, job done. If

The reason you can not find any info on how to adjust the clutch is because they are self adjusting.. as long as everything is assembled correct it will all align and adjust as required..  The adjust screw on the fork is pre-set  along with the length of the push rod to centralize the slave slave cylinder to get the full travel from the master without topping out on the return stroke. .  As the clutch wears the slave technically should eventually top out causing the clutch to slip indicating replacement needed before any damage is caused to adjacent parts. 

The Thrust bearing will be touching the pressure cover constantly but without any load on it when clutch not engaged..  Any slack that you indicated should get taken up by the self adjustment.

Premature wear on thrust bearing as you describe can be caused by bad adjustment of the master cylinder or fork screw.  This can cause the master cylinder to not fully return and release. Symptom of this will be a clutch peddle with not slack in the top just a hard initial feel from the start.  This will act like riding the clutch and overheat the thrust bearing.. Severe cases can melt the bearing housing and also cause unwanted ware on the cranks thrust bearing ..  

The adjuster screw in the fork should be set as per manual with 12.5 mm  of thread showing above lock nut. The clutch peddle should have 2-5mm of free play when fully released at the top and minimal clearance to the carpet when depressed .. Also make sure the fork is clipped on to the ball pin correct. 

Hope this help solve your problem.

    

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Thanks Changes, good description of clutch operation, but I still can't figure out how the "self adjusting" works, I've set my fork adjusting screw almost totally out and the bearing is just touching the clutch plate fingers, if I use the 12 threads method then it seems to be engaging the clutch, I did notice some clutch slipping whilst driving as well. What is the length of the slave cylinder push rod ?.  I have the correct play at the peddle as you describe. Installed fork correctly as in the manual with a new spring.     

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The adjuster does not affect the throw of the fork.  Set it to spec and leave it there, forever.  Pump the clutch pedal a few times. Can you now rattle the fork a tiny little bit?  If so, job done. If not, then you have an issue elsewhere.

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British Fart to Florida, Nude to New York, Dunce to Denmark, Numpty to Newfoundland.  And Shitfaced Silly Sod to Sweden.

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Rusted piston / cylinder bore in the slave Cylinder?

If the slave cylinder / piston is damaged it will get stuck.

Moisture / water can enter the slave cylinder if the rubber boot is damaged at the end of the clutch slave cylinder.

Esprit Freak

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  • 2 weeks later...

I agree with fjmuurling, that the clutch slave cylinder can become defect with incorrect piston positioning inside it, without showing leaks. I had exactly that some 2 years ago, and I could not understand the distance and setting correctly setup, would not Work the clutch for propperly. So I changed it, and voila, Works as it's meant to do.

Kind regards,

Jacques.

Nobody does it better - than Lotus ;)

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  • 2 years later...

I have a Ford Courier van I swapped the  diesel motor and gearbox and fitted a Toyota 4 y and Cressida gearbox which is a perfect fit no modifications done.

Problem

I just can not get the clutch system right as it appears the clutch slips when driving and a bit of gear grinding when changing .

I tried bleeding the master and slave cylinder still no joy - no leaks noted

Fitted a new Toyota 4y clutch and pressure plate kit and new slave cylinder no change 

Checked the slave cylinder movement with clutch depressed and it appears that the slave cylinder push road is to long , I noticed through the inspection hole of the bell housing that when clutch is released the push road is tight with no play same with the fork.

Should I cut the push road a bit or get a smaller slave cylinder  

Has any one experienced  this problem.

 

 

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On 26/12/2019 at 09:41, Augusto Manacas said:

I have a Ford Courier van I swapped the  diesel motor and gearbox and fitted a Toyota 4 y and Cressida gearbox which is a perfect fit no modifications done...

 

 

 

 What a coincidence. I have a Cressida and just swapped a Ford Courier van diesel motor and gearbox into it.

  • Haha 1

DanR

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