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Glyn Harper

'88 gear change servicing kits?

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Hi all. My car has been garaged for about 2 years, and after a couple of niggly electrical problems (stuck relays) it's working again! Wonderful to drive it around again. But my goodness, the gear change is horrendous!

I know all '88 cars are never going to have great gear selection, but it's really quite bad. My shoulder is aching today!

So, it's time for some servicing I reckon. I'm thinking at the gearbox end, and the gear selector end.

I already have the solid shift link thing that helped a bit when I fitted it about 12 years ago and probably had new rod ends at the same time.

Who is doing upgrade kits these days? I know Espritism did them years ago, but they seemed to have vanished now.

I'm in the UK by the way. And.. I have done the selector mod where you change the selector rods from the top to the bottom (or was it the other way around) to make it a bit shorter shift. I've got a bulletin about it somewhere, I think it's a mod they did on the Sport 300.

And while I'm at it.. here's a cheeky picture of my Esprit. :) Think I need to drop the front suspension slightly though!

 

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Glyn,

That is som egreat looking Esprit! I like that a lot.

Over to your gearshift:

Any of the normal suppliers can sell you a kit with new ball joints for the rear and new bushings for the gearmaster in the front.

That will help a great deal together with the following:

The two pins the prevent the gearstick in rotating can be slightly longer and slightly thickr, so I had that done to mine.

Another thing is the Little nylon thing that protrudes from the left side of the gearstickbase. That can be worn or gone completely. Together with a new aluminium reverse inhibitor block and adjustment, you should find moving over to reverse, first and second, a breeze, and gearshift in general quite okay.

I will mod my own in a different way though.

The last v8's had a different end casing and axle, with a cable on each side, eliminating the translator all together.

And the had a different gearmaster with direct balls and a much more progressive, precise and pleasing gearshift that is far better than the standard one can be. Here's a Photo of mine waiting on the other parts.

I've tried it on a friends Esprit, and I'd like to do that on mine. Much better.

Kind regards,

Jacques.

 

1.JPG


Nobody does it better - than Lotus ;)

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Hi Jacques. Thanks for the reply.

Wow, I have the exact same gear unit but I didn't know if I would be able to make this fit to my car, as I have a normal 1988 gearbox.

Are you also using an 88 gearbox? Can you tell me which other parts you are going to use, and will this work?

Here is mine.. also brand new!

 

IMG_1204.JPG

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You might find this thread helpful. I got all the bits to refurb the rear translator for £25, much less than the ready made 'kits' offered by people like PNM.

 


Not worth starting anything now...🍺

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Ace, thanks. I'll have a look now!

just ordered new rose joints and bearings for the back. Many thanks!

Just need to sort the front out while I'm at it as well. I assume there is no 'setting up' at the front? Just swap the parts?

I'd hate to do the front and rear at the same time, only to find I've given myself a rubik cube type job trying to get it all lined up!

It's great that after 2 years in the garage.. I've got the love back for my Esprit. I've had it 19 years and I still love it to bits! :)

Edited by Glyn Harper

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Very nice thing to have Glyn, so keep it close. They are nla and I am aware of a few Lotus dealers, WHO would surely like to have them (and sell them as fast as fish and chips). For that, as I wrote, you'll need the end casing and a few other bits in there, plus some clips and two special cables. Nla.

Meanwhile, you surely just need the translator refurb parts as you mention, plus the bushings and rubber parts for the front. Plus possibly a new reverse inhibitor block.

Asjustment wise, when I did mine, I felt it was a sort of cooperation between the rear and the front. Adjust, test, readjust, make small increments and finally adjust the reverse inhibitor block. Do make sure, that your Little nylon thing protruding on the base of the gearstick's left side, is fresh and not worn down or totally missing, as it is apparently often the case. The newer version of that particular gearmec, same behind, but with revised gearstick, is not as easy to renew. It need more parts, pref. a Whole gearstick, which I haven't found still... But I also have the "old" "first" version on my 1990 Turbo SE.

I might add, that the old story of the rear translator needing to be readjusted very often, certainly have not been my case, nor anyone else I know of. I did mine mearly 4 years ago, and have not needed any adjustment so far. I shift my gear often, when I drive.

If you are being more wrench-happy, you may consider a strenghening anti-twist kit for the cut out in the chassis, surrounding the gearmaster. Like the one that Lotus made for the Sport300 onwards. I got this from a (dead) Sport300, and refurbed it. Plus the kit for the rear.

As Vanya usually says: oil your shifting cables! (thin non-sticky oil).

Kind regards,

Jacques.

 

8.JPG

9.JPG


Nobody does it better - than Lotus ;)

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Thanks, I'll look at those strengthening bits. Were they only on the Sport 300? I'll have to see if they are in the manual somewhere so I can see where they go exactly.

I did do the modification to mine that the Sport 300 had, where the shifter cables at the back were moved, to make a shorter shift.

It works, but it makes it a very stiff shift!

The parts to overhaul the gearstick area came today, so I may give that a go over the weekend.

Thanks again!

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I've been reading posts about the gearbox and the opening comment here rings true with me as I find out the good and bad about my new purchase.

Really liking what I've found out this weekend about my X180, but if I have one thing that concerns me, it's the gear change. Finding reverse and 5th or changing back to 2nd from 3rd feels vague and involves the odd crunch. 

The previous owner mentioned a nylon bush at the base of the gear stick affecting reverse that could do with replacing, but I am a novice and will need to research this.

It's good to know that gear change and select is not always the best and there are kits to refresh things rather than worrying it may be the gearbox!

Any links to parts available, kits or, as described above would be welcome.

Would it be a DIY job for an enthusiast or best left to the pros with the lifting gear and easy access?

I read somewhere the the Renault traffic gearbox was a more available and cheaper option should one ever be needed. Which one fits, is it as per the following link?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Renault-Traffic-and-Master-pk-pf-5-and-6spd-gearboxes-/222622843829?hash=item33d55b03b5:g:n2IAAOxyaqlSSax4

Thxs

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See my post above for links to refurb parts for the translator cheaper than the ready made kits available through the specialists.


Not worth starting anything now...🍺

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Thanks Neil.

My IE skill are lacking but I found the links to parts, other comments and subsequent pics. The 3rd to 2nd gear change problem appears more than once.

So the images above are for the front gear shift selector, whereas the kit is to renew the joins for the rods at the back/gearbox.

It looks like some access from above is required as well as from below and for this some have partitioned their boot floor - is this broadly the right?

Rgds

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Yes, the images above are for the front 'master' unit.

To refurb the translator at the rear and set it up correctly you'll need access from above with the boot floor out. Just a few bolts and multiplugs, easy enough. Then you'll have unrestricted access to the whole thing.

You'll probably find some of the boot floor rivnuts are rusted out so it's a good opportunity to replace those at the same time. Being able to remove the boot floor easily is a major plus for most gearboxy type jobs...


Not worth starting anything now...🍺

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Brilliant - thanks.

I'm going to ask about this weekend a Brands Hatch and likely have a go using a friends workshop at Tilbury - will cost me a drink.

As for the service kit as mentioned £47 from PNM, (probably add VAT), but costing up the parts specified from Bearing boys weblink including the Nyloc M6 nuts etc, it came to circa £60!

I guess writing off £10-20 either way you can live with, so will probably just buy the kit supplied

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I've got all the parts to do mine now. I did the rear several years back but have never done the front so I'm hoping for a decent improvement.

has anyone found a device to assist in liking the bowden cables, and what oil is used. Is WD40 appropriate?

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For the front, is it recommended to replace the Isolator and Lever bushes?

They look accessible from the underside and DIY job for a novice like myself.

Any other perishable parts to get thing back to original quality or better for gear changes recommended while you're at it?

Thxs

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I just did the rear linkages and translator bearings over the weekend. Couldn't get into reverse. 

Luckily I'd ordered the kit from PNM on my last order as an upgrade I knew I needed to do down the line.

Let me know if I can answer any questions.

 

Screen Shot 2017-08-31 at 9.31.32 PM.png

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@DaKawill your car be at Brands?


British Ambassador to Florida, New York, Denmark and Newfoundland.  And Sweden.

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Unfortunately, I'd made arrangements to travel to BH with 3 others just before I purchased my car.

Although tempted, it will likely stay at home as I'm having to drive the others.

I hope to nose around and ask questions of any owner that I see near their car.

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Find me.  Happy to answer any questions!


British Ambassador to Florida, New York, Denmark and Newfoundland.  And Sweden.

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Maybe not.  The surgical truss arrived this morning.


British Ambassador to Florida, New York, Denmark and Newfoundland.  And Sweden.

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Thanks to Brian, Charlie and a handful of others that I found to ask questions last weekend.

I now know where I should be topping up my coolant, that my accelerator cable is connected differently (probably o/a aftermarket K&Ns), that my gear change selector is not as bad as I thought and that I should fit my under tray for a number of reasons. Etc. Etc.

Read a post about clutch dust in the fluid and syphoned out from the reservoir all the muck at the bottom a few times - made a difference I feel.

Overall it has help me feel good about things, but I'm taking it to Rapid Engineering (A12 near Romford) for an assessment of what needs to be done next week aside from what I have noticed already - I hope they don't take the wind from my sails!

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I'm picking up again on the PNM bearing service kit that I've had since 2017 Brands Hatch festival that I really must get around to fitting.

I don't like starting a job until I'm confident they I can completed it without help, especially when the car is running well.

I've followed the links from Neil and other information from Oz, but does anyone have a guide or could provide a link to this kit renewal from start to finish?

I'm not even sure what/how needs to come out of the car (boot floor?) to gain access, if the car need to be off the ground or, can things be done from above when the floor is out?  

 

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You can do everything from above with the boot floor out. No need to jack the car up. The critical part is adjusting the length of the rod ends when you're done. If you can change the rodends having measured the length first, so that they will be the exact same length with the new rodends, you may not have to do much/any adjustment.

Having said that, it's what I did but the alignement still isn't 100% and 1st and 2nd are a bit tricky to get, but I need to get some help from someone to adjust it. Following the book settings hasn't worked for me so I need some fine adjustment.

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Or you can do everything from below with the boot floor in.  Might be preferable if yours has never been out, or was last sealed by an RTV bandit.

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British Ambassador to Florida, New York, Denmark and Newfoundland.  And Sweden.

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