Engine and gearbox removal...

[Benco 19]

Hi, it's been too long but back on my car...so I'm ready to take out the engine and gearbox, I think I've done everything, but just some simple things I'd like to check. So:

- all engine mountings unbolted, earth strap disconnected, all electricals off, oil pump and cooler off, carbs off, rad disconnected, drained of oil and water, clutch cable off, all water pipes off, oil pressure pipe off

- gearbox mounting unbolted, gearbox supported on trolley, speedo and reversing cables disconnected

Inside the car I've strapped the gear lever gaiter, I can't get the gear knob off - it does rotate with the silver finisher, does it come off with this or should it unscrew on its own?

also I presume that as its the 5 speed box version, that after getting the gear lever 'finisher' and gaiter off, that I then unscrew the rubber seal (4 screws) and then the whole bare lever and seal drops down through the body when the gearbox starts to drop down? Or do I have to take the seal off of the bare gear lever and then put the gearbox in 2nd and then remove the gear lever itself?

Finally, I've read some contradictory material. Do I need to disconnect the gearbox from the prop shaft? Or is this a slide fit on splines so should 'just disconnect' if I pull the gearbox and engine forward?

Sorry if these are basic questions but determined to try not to break too much this early!

thanks

Terry

[oilmagnet477 748]

Terry,

Not sure about the gear lever bits (although on triumphs I've had the gear knob was retained by a metal 'sleeve' between the knob and the metal lever so in essence it just pulled off ( I twisted for ages thinking I was unscrewing it!).

As far as the prop shaft is concerned, I took mine out (with Gearbox on situ) and it just slid out from the splines - I imagine it should do this OK when removing the engine and gearbox but you might need to make sure the angle is not too severe.

Good luck

[mikeeech 349]

gearbox is a slide fit onto the splines. you will need to get the gear knob off as the gear stick won't get out of the transmission tunnel with it on - it's a tight fit anyway. if you get the front of the car high then this will make it easier but get a load leveler since it will make it much easier to get the engine and box at the right angle. without jacking the front of the car up you may have to increase the size of the hole in the transmission tunnel. if you have a riviera then this will be a getrag box?

You didn't mention the exhaust in your list. the manifold can stay on but the rest of the exhaust definitely needs to come off 

I had to take my power steering pump off to clear the body on it's way out and be sure to drain the gearbox of oil. it will drain itself if you don't. I would worry about supporting the gearbox on a trolley jack. this is where the load level really helps.

It is a tight squeeze but one that gets easier with practise

[pbharcourt 390]

Gearlever on a Getrag gearbox is held in place by a wire circlip under the bottom of the chrome lever itself, you will need a 90 degree tool to prise this out and a mirror to see it, very fiddly.

[Benco 19]

Hi, great feedback thanks. Yes the exhaust is off (that was a whole other story ?), there must be an easier way for that hidden away nut from the down pipe/manifold join.

I didn't know about that circlip so that will be next, thanks. 

When I started to take the gearbox retaining bracket off, the gearbox started to drop - that's why I thought I needed a jack underneath it. It will be easier not to worry about that. How far forward will the gearbox need to go before the splines disengage? 

This weekends fun!

[clivef38 156]

About 5 inches.

[Benco 19]

Engine out! Thanks for all of the pointers, I did have a struggle as the engine hoist was too short and my garage ceiling too low. Ended up having to push the car out with the hoist so I could raise it up high enough. I did get a leveller, not sure I could gave managed it without. For refitting I'm going to get a longer piece of square hollow section tube - so the reach us longer and I can lift it higher.

Thanks again, I presume splitting the box and engine is pretty straight forward, and body off next - now that could be a challenge ?. Any recommendations for this bit?

 

[mikeeech 349]

Body off is easy. Did my engine/'box removal and body off in two days! For the body removal obviously drain. The brakes and disconnect pipes to the master cylinder, remove power steering floors, fuel pipe, hand brake and your about there. The body has to go higher than you think to clear the rear suspension so be prepared for this. Be safe too. There is alot to go wrong with lifting the body off and if you drop it alot of damage can happen not least to you.

[Benco 19]

Thanks for the pointers, given the height of my garage ceiling, any approximations as to how much I need to lift the body up by to clear the shock towers? ... and does the steering  become disconnected at the interface with the steering rack?

[mikeeech 349]

In terms of height I reckon 7 bricks and fully extended axle stands if the support is just in front of the rear suspension. You could probably take a measurement from the picture. The steering uncouples from the uj which has to be undone at both ends and pushed back up the steering column. 

A satisfying job once done and makes adjusting the hand brake a doddle!

[johnpwalsh 1,370]

A satisfying job once done and makes adjusting the hand brake a doddle!.

 

[Chillidoggy 4,461]

Remember - if you extend the crane jib with box section, you must ensure that its legs are longer than the centre of the lift otherwise it'll all end in tears.

[oilmagnet477 748]

6 hours ago, ian29gte said:

Remember - if you extend the crane jib with box section, you must ensure that its legs are longer than the centre of the lift otherwise it'll all end in tears.

Or get a fat bastard to stand on the back

[Sparky 2,939]

55 minutes ago, oilmagnet477 said:

Or get a fat bastard to stand on the back

Yup - I always have a couple of 'big' friends handy...

[Chillidoggy 4,461]

10 minutes ago, Sparky said:

Yup - I always have a couple of 'big' friends handy...

Nothing new there, then.

[Benco 19]

...thanks for the feedback on extending the hoist...yes going to need some bigger mates to balance it up......either that or just go and find someone in Bristol with a bigger engine hoist ?.

[Steve V8 1,312]

You are welcome to borrow mine, just had the jib extended by 600mm to reach over the luggage compartment to the engine bay on my Esprit. Midsomer Norton 16 miles south of Bristol. 

[Benco 19]

Thanks Steve, that's a nice offer - would like to take you up on that next year when reinstalling - thanks again!

[Steve V8 1,312]

No problem Terry, whenever you need it, it spends most of its life sat in the shed gathering dust. 07793067732 

Steve

[Chillidoggy 4,461]

Have a word with Steve if you need carpets, Terry. He's the man.

[Benco 19]

So engine out and split from the gearbox. The lack of clutch lever rubber grommet has led to a very rusty flywheel and clutch plate. Also there were a couple of clutch plate bolts out, one sat in the bottom of the bell housing and the plate is not flush to the flywheel, distorted, so that's to be replaced.

I'm cleaning off the years of oil and grease and I was planning to check out the bottom end bearing surfaces for scores. I wasn't planning for a mega refurbishment (but who knows) so welcome advice on the jobs that I should be planning to do. I've never had the engine running but it does move freely. 

thanks

Terry

[The Nut 29]

Terry,

One of the things that caught me out when I lifted the body off was the fuel tube in the boot, when you disconnect it from the pump you need to push it through the body, as it passes through the body into the inside of the chassis,  ended up just cutting mine in the middle lifting it.

Its a very quick job to do once the engines out. Have fun, let us know how it goes.

Regards

John

[Clive59 123]

On 20/09/2017 at 20:55, Benco said:

Yes the exhaust is off (that was a whole other story ?), there must be an easier way for that hidden away nut from the down pipe/manifold join.

I would like to hear this story! I am currently taking engine out, and this has me stumped at moment. Access is horrendous, and a little forethought in how pipes are positioned would allow socket and extension between them, but no. Looks like I need a very short spanner and somehow get the necessary leverage. Any tips gratefully received!

[pbharcourt 390]

I used a 1/4 inch socket set with a long extension through the two pipes, and put the socket on after the extension is pushed through.

[Clive59 123]

I can't get it at the right angle to engage a socket. I need to somehow spread the pipes a little. I agree, that should work if I apply some persuasion!  cheers.