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So I was adjusting my tailgate and the bolts were so rusted that they all snapped on me.

I managed to get most of them out by drilling, but got cocked one up real bad by snapping a bolt extractor head in it.

My only option was to drill it out completely.

I thought I could tap in some new threads, but my drilling was off centre and went past the existing thread walls.

Without a way to get inside the tailgate to access the rubber thread mounts is my only option to glue in an M6 rivet nut?

Ideas appreciated.

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Very tricky, especially given the sizes, and I imagine the tapping plate inside is bonded-in. I looked at the parts manual, the tapping plate appears to be U-shaped, but it's not entirely clear. One p

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Very tricky, especially given the sizes, and I imagine the tapping plate inside is bonded-in. I looked at the parts manual, the tapping plate appears to be U-shaped, but it's not entirely clear. One possible solution is to try to remove the broken stud with some carbide-tipped bits, or perhaps buy a load of small grinding bits, ball-ended, pointed, and have a go with a die grinder. Thing is, apart from forward to aft, there's not a lot of leeway in the hinge up and down, so you'd need to be pretty accurate.

Beyond that, maybe consider grinding the surface off the GRP to reveal the tapping plate so you could get the riveter in there, then put a riv-nut in, before glassing over it (you'd need to put a bolt in the hole with grease on it before re-glassing).

But I'd wait to see if there are any other responses first, someone may have better solutions than these.

 

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Margate Exotics.

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That's a real shitty situation. If you can't repair the threads in-situ then you're going to need to get the plate out and re-work it.

When I installed my carbon rear deck, I stole the plates from the inside of another rear deck. I could do this given the extremely light weight of the deck.  You're going to have to bond-in/re-glass in the plate to get the right position and necessary strength.

Good luck.DSCF0246.thumb.JPG.055c0c00473ad4d31772ece0fc7c1d44.JPGDSCF0249.thumb.JPG.3071c4edf1e28456b2109b4080e9c283.JPG

1996 Esprit V8, 1998 Esprit V8 GT, 1999 Esprit S350 #002 (Esprit GT1 replica project), 1996 Esprit V8 GT1 (chassis 114-001), 1992 Lotus Omega (927E), 1999 Esprit V8SE, 1999 Esprit S350 #032, 1995 Esprit S4s, 1999 Esprit V8 GT (ex-5th Gear project), 1999 Esprit V8SE ('02 rear)

1999 S350 #002 Esprit GT1 replica

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More questions for Mike - Have you any other photos of that tapping plate, Mike? Also, I wondered whether it can be accessed by removing the tailgate canopy? And if so, how is that held on?

Just trying to understand this situation, as I wouldn't be surprised if this is an isolated case!

Margate Exotics.

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1 hour ago, ian29gte said:

More questions for Mike - Have you any other photos of that tapping plate, Mike? Also, I wondered whether it can be accessed by removing the tailgate canopy? And if so, how is that held on?

Just trying to understand this situation, as I wouldn't be surprised if this is an isolated case!

I don't have any more images of the tapping plate, but from memory it is surface bonded.    I could not find a way to access it without cutting, so assumed that it is bonded in during assy. of the tailgate.

1996 Esprit V8, 1998 Esprit V8 GT, 1999 Esprit S350 #002 (Esprit GT1 replica project), 1996 Esprit V8 GT1 (chassis 114-001), 1992 Lotus Omega (927E), 1999 Esprit V8SE, 1999 Esprit S350 #032, 1995 Esprit S4s, 1999 Esprit V8 GT (ex-5th Gear project), 1999 Esprit V8SE ('02 rear)

1999 S350 #002 Esprit GT1 replica

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Thanks guys. Tricky situation I've gotten myself into for sure.

Ian, I do like your idea of cutting away the GRP, putting in the Rivnut, then glassing over.

If I were to do this I'd try just to cut out around the holes with my dremel.

Time to research how to do fibreglass.

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Probably a good idea, and if you can get the head of the rivet gun up to the tapping plate, you may just get the job done. You might want to consider using stainless rivnuts. I know they're a pain to fit, and you will probably need a large riveter to put them in (I have a rivet gun that's a couple of feet long and they're still difficult to fit as opposed to the alloy ones, you really some strength to expand them).

The GRP bit is relatively easy but time-consuming, you can use some woven-roving, or CSM, make sure you grind back enough for it to take,, and fill any small depressions or holes with filler, before repainting the area.

Finally,, alignment is everything. Try to keep it all as concentric as possible to the original holes, or you will make some problems for yourself. It's not the end of the world, because you can relieve the hinge slots if necessary, but you don't want to do that if possible.

Let us know how you progress, it's an interesting issue!

Margate Exotics.

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  • 3 weeks later...

If you're going to cut the fibreglass to get to the plate, it would make total sense to get some replacements made in stainless steel rather than mild steel. They'll last forever then.

They only look like some flat plate with some nuts welded to the back, so it won't be hard to get them made by someone.

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