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DaKa

Handbrake Efficiency

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I may be wrong but your first picture appears to show the cable nipple is not correctly installed in the lever cup? Which would give you one sided hand Braking! Just worth a check.

kind Regards

Paul

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If the piston is not oriented correctly, then the self adjust doesn't work. Have a read of the manual and check on the orientation... Getting the seat out can be simple; you can also snap the bolts in the process...(!) Then it's a matter of welding new ones to the seat runners...

 


Scientists investigate that which already is; Engineers create that which has never been." - Albert Einstein

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Got an old fashioned mechanic looking at things with me tomorrow - e.g. a mechanic rather than a parts fitter. What is it that garages these days that just want to fit new bits £75 an hour plus VAT - anyone can fit things with the right tools.

Anyway enough moaning, I've noted your points about orientation of piston etc. and have 2 spare cables in case of need. I'm just hoping the piston can be forced out with compressed air in order to clean and lubricate as per the service manual.

I would have got 2 x service kits from SJS but feared they would not arrive in time and its also £30 towards PNM Brembos if I end up putting them on my Christmas list!

 

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50% success.

It turned out that the off side rear calliper piston was upside down, probably as a result of being wound back and the previous owner not knowing there was a right way up.

The near side had the small metal wedge that sits between the turning handbrake lever (retained by a spring) and the bit that pushes the piston lying loose inside the protective gaiter. 

There clearly something wrong with the near side as the piston winds back in fine but although I can put the metal wedge back in it's not holding the disc and the metal wedge wants to fall out.

Q:

There is a fat and thin end for this metal wedge - Does anyone know which way round it should be (Thin end against the lever mechanism at the moment and the fat end against the back of the piston. Also the back of the piston has a long and a short lobe to hold the wedge in place, which bit face inner and outer long or short?

I also don't get how it can be that when the piston moves in as the pads wear how the gap between the handbrake lever mechanism and the back of the piston that gets pushed can remain a constant, else the wedge will fall out of position? I guess that the that calliper doesn't move much on the inside of the wheel and the outside just moves towards the disc?

 

Seems like I will have to send my callipers for a refurb (circa £120 and 2-3 weeks) or PNM Brembo upgrade (£700 and 2-3 weeks wait) - I'm leaning towards the latter. Expensive, (about £200 more than I'm comfortable with in terms of value for money) but I guess that this would be a safety improvement and great feature should I ever contemplate selling.

Any other suggestions?

 

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I've bitten the bullet and coughed up for the 300mm Brembo rear upgrade kit from PNM.

I'm sure that a refurb would have achieved the efficiency, it was just the near side handbrake failing, but I would like to think that some of my investment would add value to the car once fitted, it certainly adds safety.

MOT expires on Sunday, so that car will be garaged for a couple of weeks while I wait for new parts. It gives me a chance to adjust the suspension height and a few other tasks that I'd planned for the winter.

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9 working days after placing my order I call PNM for the first time to see how my new Brembo callipers are progressing and I'm advised they will start on them next week. Don't worry, I was warned that they are very good at what they do but slow. I'm assured that they should arrive next week.

I had removed the old callipers and discs (calliper still connected to the braided hose lying on the floor) to be ready for the new ones but as I have at least another week to wait, I thought that I would put them back the car and give it a run to check the height adjustment change that I made while the car was in the air.

Amazingly, the handbrake has now started working on both sides and working well, but I have no idea why?

Yes, I fiddled with the handbrake mechanism and wound back the calliper again but nothing that I hadn't tried before.

I will now try and get it through its MOT as it allows me to take my time fitting the upgrade kit when it arrives!

Perhaps someone in need would be keen to take the old set apart as I guess there can't be too much wrong with them? 

I will place a new post when done.

 

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I'm going to have to chase PNM again tomorrow about my Brembo rear upgrade kit (it's a shame that they don't have the resources to have these ready made on the shelf). I called them last week and have been assured they will be done (although I think they meant started) this week. I getting impatient for these now as my Esprit has been off the road for 3 weeks while I've been waiting and the MOT expired.

I'm going to have little or no time to fit this kit now before the MOT test booked for early next week so wondered if anyone else has fitted the 300mm kit is there is anything to watch out for that may cost me time?

It all seems straight forward if the braided hose removal goes well.  On my previous Excel I managed to snap the old corroded pipe at the front that turned out to be a pain fixing.  

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The upgrade rear brake kit arrived today - God bless Pete at PNM who I've hassled.

I've reviewed the web link http://www.lotusespritworld.com/EGuides/EModifications/Rear_brake_kit.html  detailing fixing as it's nice and clear several times and it all seems straight forward - famous last words!

I'm going to have to finish work early tomorrow as I simply can't wait to fit the kit.

I'll let you know how I get on and I'm almost at the point where I can ask if there is anyone out there on the forum in 'need' of some functioning originals that only need the handbrake near side only working?

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With a prayer and almost bang like sound the old braided hose disconnected without damaging the pipe - thank goodness for releasing fluid.

Just got to let a bit of air out at the back (there is no way you can say that without a smile) when my wife can spare more than 5 minutes of her valuable time to pump the brake pedal - it's not another euphemism! 

Not too happy the the handbrake cable connects from underneath rather the the side but when I have it all done I will take some pictures and post my thoughts on the 300mm vented Brembo kit from PNM.

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Everything fitted and working except for the near side handbrake - I can't create enough slack on the adjustment to get the ball at the end of the cable into the lever socket on the calliper. The off side was a breeze once slackened, but for the near side I'm literally just 1 or 2 mm away from having enough slack to fit. Rather than force things, I'm inclined to fit one of the 2 spare cables that came with the car.

My question is:

Are the near and off side handbrake cables identical?

The adjustment available near the drivers seat for the off side is greater than the near side, suggesting that it may be a similar but not the correct cable? My spare cables seem to have a longer adjustment thread like the existing off side cable. It looks straight forward to change the cable if the drivers seat is out?

Removing the drivers seat looks simple if the 4 bolts undue, but can I ask what happens if any of the bolts break or need an angle grinder to cut them? Are the bolts welded to the seat frame on the inside or, do they bolt through the frame meaning that they are easily replaced?

Close but no cigar!

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The cables are indeed different by about 12 inches.

I've got it all done now by changing the near side cable, but having done this, it was probably not needed? 

Not sure what the best route is for the cables as the previous were not fitted correctly. If someone has some pictures of the correct routing above/below chassis it will be easy enough to alter. 

The reason I think the new cable wasn't needed is that having fitted the off side cable first to the caliper I should have completely slackened off the cable adjustment before trying to create the slack needed for the near side cable. The triangular connection between the single handbrake mechanism and the 2 separate cables means that if one is too tight the other doesn't have as much slack available. Had I fitted the near side cable first with more adjustment available on the off side cable I'd likely have got it done sooner.

Anyway, the seat came out easily, the new cable went in without too much grief and 3 clicks max on the handbrake lever and it holds superbly (also I learnt a bit and feel good about doing this myself). I thought that the plate/rubber cover fixed to the body where the cable exits the cabin into the engine bay area would need removing, but this was not the case.  Good job too, as one of the 3 fixings was just spinning as the fine thread had gone rusty. The hole provided in the body just in front allowed the new cable to be pushed through.  

MOT booked for Saturday - all being well I will take some pics and give some feedback as promised.

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Got this little job to do soon. Cables have collapsed on themselves


Only here once

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Car passed its MOT today so I'm well pleased.

It was booked for Saturday but I found out thankfully that you must use one of the nearest MOT centres available to your home if your MOT has expired and I had booked somewhere about 10 miles away! 

Ian's right - I did look into electric handbrakes and these look great value and easy enough if the design fits the car, The weight of cables is substantial, so another good reason if you have an appetite to try fitting electric stuff. 

 

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You'd probably have been OK with a test station 10 miles away,  different story if it were 100 miles. If you'd have passed by other stations on the way, then perhaps not, but I don't think there's anything that states it absolutely has to be the nearest one.

Some people try that trick when purchasing a car with no MOT, but if caught it would be down to the court to decide whether there was a reasonable justification to use that test station.

 

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