Clarky5150 Posted July 2, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2019 Thanks for the reply Ian. Its actually the adjuster knob not the spring platform. I keep these lathered with chain lube which seems to do the trick. My wife gave me that knowing glance when I mentioned I was asking advice on the forum for problems with a stiff knob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chillidoggy Posted July 2, 2019 Report Share Posted July 2, 2019 Ah, I see. Yes, I’ve had that problem before, but on some Spax dampers. I seem to recall they were totally immovable, so I did precisely the same as you, just left them be. I suppose there’s a case for moving them back and forth during a service, although I’ve not had the same issue with the Gaz dampers I’ve been using for a while now. I fully understand you’d want to be a bit careful about broadcasting the fact that your knob’s seized up. 1 Quote Margate Exotics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarky5150 Posted July 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2019 So the next job is front discs and pads. I know it’s a hub off job. Does anyone know of a walkthrough posted anywhere to assist with torque poundages etc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarky5150 Posted March 24, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2020 Wow, time flies. Just to update the thread I took the peril off the road for Winter this year having scratched my Porker itch again with not one but two Cayenne turbo S's that needed a little love and attention. It was always the plan to put her back on the road for May 1st with the fortnight running up for prep. Then came the home isolation/lockdown for the Coronavirus. All change! Time to get some of those 'on the list' jobs done. A few hours on the battery conditioner before hooking the battery up and a few seconds of WOT turnover to get the oil moving and up she fired first time and settled into tick over. Ran up to temp with no histrionics and once up and down the (private) road for good measure. All good. Job 1 is something I had been contemplating for a while, electric charge cooler conversion. A slow use of coolant from the system and a nagging feeling that performance dropped a little when warm added to the argument. Off with the plenum cover and charge cooler for a clean up and access and following good advice off with the oil filter. This gives plenty of access to the pump itself which is held on with one 10mm bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarky5150 Posted March 24, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2020 One look at the rotten jubilee clips made me realise this hadn't been off for a while. Once the 10mm was out using a ratchet ended spanner, a gentle persuasion with a No2 tapping stick (see hammer) started the housing to trun. Further pulling and twisting finally got clearance and out she popped. The impeller within is an unusual thing as it is designed to brush along part of the slightly ovaliod housing and looks a bit like a submarine screw prop. At least it should do.... The shaft was spinning within the plastic impeller but that sucker was seized in and had been for a while by the looks. Seems my hunch about power loss was right. Now to decide on either a PNM kit of bespoke with a more powerful pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chillidoggy Posted March 24, 2020 Report Share Posted March 24, 2020 9 minutes ago, Clarky5150 said: Wow, time flies. Just to update the thread I took the peril off the road for Winter this year having scratched my Porker itch again with not one but two Cayenne turbo S's that needed a little love and attention. It was always the plan to put her back on the road for May 1st with the fortnight running up for prep. Then came the home isolation/lockdown for the Coronavirus. All change! Time to get some of those 'on the list' jobs done. A few hours on the battery conditioner before hooking the battery up and a few seconds of WOT turnover to get the oil moving and up she fired first time and settled into tick over. Ran up to temp with no histrionics and once up and down the (private) road for good measure. All good. Job 1 is something I had been contemplating for a while, electric charge cooler conversion. A slow use of coolant from the system and a nagging feeling that performance dropped a little when warm added to the argument. Off with the plenum cover and charge cooler for a clean up and access and following good advice off with the oil filter. This gives plenty of access to the pump itself which is held on with one 10mm bolt. Oooooh, those oil pump bolts look like mine did just before I sheared four of them off. Do not disturb! Quote Margate Exotics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarky5150 Posted March 24, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2020 HAHA you read my mind!! I had read an oil pump rebuild thread where by machining the annular and housing cases to minimum tolerance beefed up the tick over pressure by a good amount. It was on my list....Its not now. Should the lump ever go bang it will be taken care of then lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chillidoggy Posted March 24, 2020 Report Share Posted March 24, 2020 11 minutes ago, Clarky5150 said: HAHA you read my mind!! I had read an oil pump rebuild thread where by machining the annular and housing cases to minimum tolerance beefed up the tick over pressure by a good amount. It was on my list....Its not now. Should the lump ever go bang it will be taken care of then lol. A wise move. It took me quite a while to get it sorted. Actually, having another look, yours seems even worse than mine. Quote Margate Exotics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarky5150 Posted March 24, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2020 But a hell of a lot easier to deal with in that state. On mine they will be either 'finger tight' = most load bearing nuts and bolts when I bought the car or gazillion pounds foot which appears to be the standard torque for all non stressed nuts and bolts on my Esprit. Of course the piece de resistance is to make them out of monkey metal and spray them with salt water for a few decades post fitting. I've had it easy with those Porsches....Its good to be back!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chillidoggy Posted March 24, 2020 Report Share Posted March 24, 2020 Identical to my experience with nuts and bolts on this engine, although they’ve tended towards the gazillion pounds/foot end of the scale. Most stuff that was finger tight had already fallen off when I bought the car! Quote Margate Exotics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarky5150 Posted March 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2020 Blanking plug ordered today and Bosch pump. Couple of feet of hose and some clips and we are good to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarky5150 Posted March 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2020 Whilst I wait for my pump I thought I would check over the remainder of the system. The same crystalline white substance was blocking the charge cooler to reservoir outlet so I cleaned it through and gave the full system a good flush through as I didn't want any nasties blocking the new pump. A nice river of rusty water later and refilled the system with red coolant mix using a long pipe and our friend gravity. All ready for introduction of the new pump to the circuit and bleed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarky5150 Posted March 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2020 With the blank in place and plenum replaced I thought I would fire her up to check the fire wires etc. I got an engine check light and an unusually high tick over. Happy I have no air leak from the intake system so read the codes and got a code 35. The IAC valve was working fine prior to the pump removal so don't think that is the culprit. Interestingly I found the TPS screws had worked loose and note that turning it clockwise, raising the tick over further and then anti clockwise drops the tick over to the correct speed for around 5 secs before the ECU ups the tick over back to around 1800 rpm. I read on other posts that the 35 code could be caused by a coolant sensor fault. Would this sound feasible to have damaged/disturbed this sensor whist removing the pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chillidoggy Posted March 28, 2020 Report Share Posted March 28, 2020 I have a feeling that green coolant is the recommended, but check. Quote Margate Exotics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarky5150 Posted March 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2020 I can cross that bridge when I do a full service next month. Need to get her running first tho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold FFM Barrykearley Posted March 28, 2020 Gold FFM Report Share Posted March 28, 2020 1 hour ago, Clarky5150 said: With the blank in place and plenum replaced I thought I would fire her up to check the fire wires etc. I got an engine check light and an unusually high tick over. Happy I have no air leak from the intake system so read the codes and got a code 35. The IAC valve was working fine prior to the pump removal so don't think that is the culprit. Interestingly I found the TPS screws had worked loose and note that turning it clockwise, raising the tick over further and then anti clockwise drops the tick over to the correct speed for around 5 secs before the ECU ups the tick over back to around 1800 rpm. I read on other posts that the 35 code could be caused by a coolant sensor fault. Would this sound feasible to have damaged/disturbed this sensor whist removing the pump? If that TPS isn’t set correctly - then it’s wont boost properly at WOT Quote Only here once Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarky5150 Posted March 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2020 I know what you're saying Barry. The screws had backed out a fair way so it would have been out of spec already. I need to sort this tick over/check light issue before I can even think about WOT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold FFM Barrykearley Posted March 28, 2020 Gold FFM Report Share Posted March 28, 2020 You’ll never get the tick over right without first setting the TPS - you need a pc for that Quote Only here once Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarky5150 Posted March 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2020 New cable ordered from @internets I will get the software downloaded this week. I am however strongly convinced that the problem is being caused primarily by the ecm temp sensor mounted under the intake manifold. Any error with this faults it to tell the engine it is cold and increases the revs accordingly. I will inspect that in the coming days. Today however is given over to one of my other pastimes. Its all grain brew day. Home isolation has taken its toll on my stocks so 23ltrs of 'Peroniclone' currently being brewed. If I get chance ill sort an Imperial stout later. That beauty takes 4 month minimum conditioning but at just over 10% I drink it sparingly lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold FFM Barrykearley Posted March 29, 2020 Gold FFM Report Share Posted March 29, 2020 The TPS gives the ecm critical data for fueling and air adjustments. Without it set correctly - you are wasting your time looking at anything else Quote Only here once Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sailorbob Posted March 29, 2020 Report Share Posted March 29, 2020 I think it is doubtful the coolant temperature sensor is causing the problem as it would probably be giving an error code too. It's still worth checking you didn't disturb its connector though. A more likely cause is an air leak from the plenum cover so I'd be looking at that again along with the boost gauge hose take off and the hose connecting the IAC valve to the plenum as that was close to where you were working on the chargecooler pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarky5150 Posted March 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2020 Noted Derek. Once the pump assy is in place I think I will rip the plenum back off again and check everything over once more. She wont be going anywhere for a few weeks so no hurry really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarky5150 Posted March 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2020 Cable arrived today so straight outside and revealed TPS showing .51 at tick over so about bob on. The temp readings were also raising on the readouts suggesting the ECM temp sensor is fine. Reset the IAC which momentarily lowered by a smidge then back up into the teens tick over. Swapped out the IAC for a spare and identical performance. Looking like vac leak is the last remaining option. Pump not arrived yet but when it does ill strip everything back out and check the piping again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold FFM Barrykearley Posted March 31, 2020 Gold FFM Report Share Posted March 31, 2020 Try spraying round the plenum with a can of wd40 and see if it changes Quote Only here once Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarky5150 Posted March 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2020 You read my mind Barry. Been trying to score a can of brake and clutch cleaner all day. May as well be asking for unicorn tears, everywhere is on lockdown. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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