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The aircon has been fantastic over what was the hottest weekend of the year btw. Very pleased in that department ❄️👍🏻

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A good iron X, tar, snow foam and wash later revealed..... So the good bits are. Muuucho history and bills including full top end and gearbox rebuild at Lakeside 5k miles ago, RC inj

Just popped in to catch up on all things Lotus. As happens my last few months have been hijacked by family matters, specifically Daughters first car. Being a bit of an oddball like me she wasn’t happy

It’s a yes from me.  Pay day = membership upgrade.   New oil cooler installed. Caustic alchemy used to full effect.

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I'd give the threads a good dose of easing oil of one's choice first, leave it overnight, then try to shock the lower locking nut into moving. I use a C-spanner for this, coupled with a suitably-weighted knocking stick. If the seat and locking nut both move, then you'll need to use another C-spanner to hold the seat while you beat seven bells carefully tap the C-spanner on the locking nut.

Assuming you manage to get the seat and locking nut separated and moving, then grease all the threads with some LM grease to prevent any locking up in the future. Wipe off the excess, obv.

Margate Exotics.

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Thanks for the reply Ian. Its actually the adjuster knob not the spring platform. I keep these lathered with chain lube which seems to do the trick. 

My wife gave me that knowing glance when I mentioned I was asking advice on the forum for problems with a stiff knob.

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Ah, I see. Yes, I’ve had that problem before, but on some Spax dampers. I seem to recall they were totally immovable, so I did precisely the same as you, just left them be. I suppose there’s a case for moving them back and forth during a service, although I’ve not had the same issue with the Gaz dampers I’ve been using for a while now.

I fully understand you’d want to be a bit careful about broadcasting the fact that your knob’s seized up.

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Margate Exotics.

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So the next job is front discs and pads. I know it’s a hub off job. Does anyone know of a walkthrough posted anywhere to assist with torque poundages etc?

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Wow, time flies. Just to update the thread I took the peril off the road for Winter this year having scratched my Porker itch again with not one but two Cayenne turbo S's that needed a little love and attention. It was always the plan to put her back on the road for May 1st with the fortnight running up for prep. Then came the home isolation/lockdown for the Coronavirus. All change!

Time to get some of those 'on the list' jobs done.

A few hours on the battery conditioner before hooking the battery up and a few seconds of WOT turnover to get the oil moving and up she fired first time and settled into tick over. Ran up to temp with no histrionics and once up and down the (private) road for good measure. All good.

Job 1 is something I had been contemplating for a while, electric charge cooler conversion. A slow use of coolant from the system and a nagging feeling that performance dropped a little when warm added to the argument.

Off with the plenum cover and charge cooler for a clean up and access and following good advice off with the oil filter. This gives plenty of access to the pump itself which is held on with one 10mm bolt.

IMG_0727.JPG

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One look at the rotten jubilee clips made me realise this hadn't been off for a while. Once the 10mm was out using a ratchet ended spanner, a gentle persuasion with a No2 tapping stick (see hammer) started the housing to trun. Further pulling and twisting finally got clearance and out she popped.

The impeller within is an unusual thing as it is designed to brush along part of the slightly ovaliod housing and looks a bit like a submarine screw prop. At least it should do....

 

IMG_0732.JPG

The shaft was spinning within the plastic impeller but that sucker was seized in and had been for a while by the looks. Seems my hunch about power loss was right.

Now to decide on either a PNM kit of bespoke with a more powerful pump.

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9 minutes ago, Clarky5150 said:

Wow, time flies. Just to update the thread I took the peril off the road for Winter this year having scratched my Porker itch again with not one but two Cayenne turbo S's that needed a little love and attention. It was always the plan to put her back on the road for May 1st with the fortnight running up for prep. Then came the home isolation/lockdown for the Coronavirus. All change!

Time to get some of those 'on the list' jobs done.

A few hours on the battery conditioner before hooking the battery up and a few seconds of WOT turnover to get the oil moving and up she fired first time and settled into tick over. Ran up to temp with no histrionics and once up and down the (private) road for good measure. All good.

Job 1 is something I had been contemplating for a while, electric charge cooler conversion. A slow use of coolant from the system and a nagging feeling that performance dropped a little when warm added to the argument.

Off with the plenum cover and charge cooler for a clean up and access and following good advice off with the oil filter. This gives plenty of access to the pump itself which is held on with one 10mm bolt.

IMG_0727.JPG

Oooooh, those oil pump bolts look like mine did just before I sheared four of them off. Do not disturb!

 

Margate Exotics.

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HAHA you read my mind!! I had read an oil pump rebuild thread where by machining the annular and housing cases to minimum tolerance beefed up the tick over pressure by a good amount. It was on my list....Its not now.

Should the lump ever go bang it will be taken care of then lol.

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11 minutes ago, Clarky5150 said:

HAHA you read my mind!! I had read an oil pump rebuild thread where by machining the annular and housing cases to minimum tolerance beefed up the tick over pressure by a good amount. It was on my list....Its not now.

Should the lump ever go bang it will be taken care of then lol.


A wise move. It took me quite a while to get it sorted. Actually, having another look, yours seems even worse than mine.

 

76136D43-4B1F-4F7C-BCF2-9CCB4BC6FE7D.jpeg

Margate Exotics.

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But a hell of a lot easier to deal with in that state.

On mine they will be either 'finger tight' = most load bearing nuts and bolts when I bought the car or gazillion pounds foot which appears to be the standard torque for all non stressed nuts and bolts on my Esprit. Of course the piece de resistance is to make them out of monkey metal and spray them with salt water for a few decades post fitting.

I've had it easy with those Porsches....Its good to be back!!

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Identical to my experience with nuts and bolts on this engine, although they’ve tended towards the gazillion pounds/foot end of the scale. Most stuff that was finger tight had already fallen off when I bought the car!

 

Margate Exotics.

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Blanking plug ordered today and Bosch pump. Couple of feet of hose and some clips and we are good to go.

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Whilst I wait for my pump I thought I would check over the remainder of the system. The same crystalline white substance was blocking the charge cooler to reservoir outlet so I cleaned it through and gave the full system a good flush through as I didn't want any nasties blocking the new pump. A nice river of rusty water later and refilled the system with red coolant mix using a long pipe and our friend gravity. All ready for introduction of the new pump to the circuit and bleed.

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With the blank in place and plenum replaced I thought I would fire her up to check the fire wires etc. I got an engine check light and an unusually high tick over. Happy I have no air leak from the intake system so read the codes and got a code 35. The IAC valve was working fine prior to the pump removal so don't think that is the culprit. Interestingly I found the TPS screws had worked loose and note that turning it clockwise, raising the tick over further and then anti clockwise drops the tick over to the correct speed for around 5 secs before the ECU ups the tick over back to around 1800 rpm.

I read on other posts that the 35 code could be caused by a coolant sensor fault. Would this sound feasible to have damaged/disturbed this sensor whist removing the pump?

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I can cross that bridge when I do a full service next month. Need to get her running first tho.

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1 hour ago, Clarky5150 said:

With the blank in place and plenum replaced I thought I would fire her up to check the fire wires etc. I got an engine check light and an unusually high tick over. Happy I have no air leak from the intake system so read the codes and got a code 35. The IAC valve was working fine prior to the pump removal so don't think that is the culprit. Interestingly I found the TPS screws had worked loose and note that turning it clockwise, raising the tick over further and then anti clockwise drops the tick over to the correct speed for around 5 secs before the ECU ups the tick over back to around 1800 rpm.

I read on other posts that the 35 code could be caused by a coolant sensor fault. Would this sound feasible to have damaged/disturbed this sensor whist removing the pump?

If that TPS isn’t set correctly - then it’s wont boost properly at WOT

Only here once

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I know what you're saying Barry.  The screws had backed out a fair way so it would have been out of spec already. I need to sort this tick over/check light issue before I can even think about WOT. 

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You’ll never get the tick over right without first setting the TPS - you need a pc for that

Only here once

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New cable ordered from @internets I will get the software downloaded this week. I am however strongly convinced that the problem is being caused primarily by the ecm temp sensor mounted under the intake manifold. Any error with this faults it to tell the engine it is cold and increases the revs accordingly. I will inspect that in the coming days.

Today however is given over to one of my other pastimes. Its all grain brew day. Home isolation has taken its toll on my stocks so 23ltrs of 'Peroniclone' currently being brewed. If I get chance ill sort an Imperial stout later. That beauty takes 4 month minimum conditioning but at just over 10% I drink it sparingly lol.

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The TPS gives the ecm critical data for fueling and air adjustments. Without it set correctly - you are wasting your time looking at anything else

Only here once

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I think it is doubtful the coolant temperature sensor is causing the problem as it would probably be giving an error code too. It's still worth checking you didn't disturb its connector though. A more likely cause is an air leak from the plenum cover so I'd be looking at that again along with the boost gauge hose take off and the hose connecting the IAC valve to the plenum as that was close to where you were working on the chargecooler pump.

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Noted Derek. Once the pump assy is in place I think I will rip the plenum back off again and check everything over once more. She wont be going anywhere for a few weeks so no hurry really.

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Cable arrived today so straight outside and revealed TPS showing .51 at tick over so about bob on. The temp readings were also raising on the readouts suggesting the ECM temp sensor is fine. Reset the IAC which momentarily lowered by a smidge then back up into the teens tick over. Swapped out the IAC for a spare and identical performance. Looking like vac leak is the last remaining option. Pump not arrived yet but when it does ill strip everything back out and check the piping again. 

 

 

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