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Chassis Prep


Ginger pig

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Hi Gents,

I am currently in the process of stripping an S2 chassis; so that I can clean it up and treat it..... with what; I am not sure at the moment.

So; this question isn't S2 specific, as the logic could be applied to any chassis.

I suppose the options are:

sand blasting

Soda blasting

Other media blasting?

followed by:

painting

powder coating

POR15 application

Hot dip Galvanising

Waxol application

Reading on some other forums; it would appear that both powder coating and POR15 look good but do not perform well if the coating is damaged (i.e. stone chipping etc.)

My current thought process is to have the chassis sand blasted and then have a paint shop spray it with some sort of chassis paint; but I would be really interested in hearing from others on this forum with regards to their experiences on the results of all of the options above and what the current school of thought is on perceived best practise.

Cheers

Mark

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Hi Mark .i am no expert .But I bought some bonda primer which is a good red oxide paint .Had to order it . Maybe followed by some good quality enamel .Good luck....My chassis early turbo had the body removed in 89 .They used finnagins  no1 primer .then Hammerite black .the chassis was sprayed inside with waxoil.got pictures of chassis removed .Mike

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10 hours ago, Ginger pig said:

I am currently in the process of stripping an S2 chassis; so that I can clean it up and treat it..... with what; I am not sure at the moment.

Assuming it's no longer going to be a daily driver, more of a garage queen probably never to see another drop of rain, then almost any quality paint will be suitable.

Bilt Hamber products are always up there wining awards in the classic car magazines, not cheap but then you'll (hopefully) only be doing it the once.

Good luck & enjoy. :thumbup:

Edited by jonwat

Cheers,

John W

http://jonwatkins.co.uk

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7 minutes ago, jonwat said:

Assuming it's no longer going to be a daily driver, more of a garage queen probably never to see another drop of rain, then almost any quality paint will be suitable.

Bloody expensive ornament...    

In which case why bother at all...... just polish the top..   I would think Mark like many of us would like to take the pleasure in driving  his restored pride and joy..  otherwise why go to all the expense and trouble of chassis restoration in the first place. ?

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2 hours ago, CHANGES said:

I would think Mark like many of us would like to take the pleasure in driving  his restored pride and joy..  otherwise why go to all the expense and trouble of chassis restoration in the first place. ?

I wasn't suggesting he wouldn't use & enjoy it, I was only pointing out that as a classic/non daily driver he probably wouldn't be going out for a blast when it's pissing it down. 

Cheers,

John W

http://jonwatkins.co.uk

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6 hours ago, jonwat said:

I wasn't suggesting he wouldn't use & enjoy it, I was only pointing out that as a classic/non daily driver he probably wouldn't be going out for a blast when it's pissing it down. 

Sorry John,  I misunderstood,  Its just the term '' garage queen''  is generally used for a virtually static motor,  A bit like the trailer queens, which are the ones that just go out to shows on a trailer, and usually with cling film around the tyres so the don't get dust in the tread..      There are those that treat their cars like this , but my take on it all is that most of the Esprit owners like to use theirs rain or shine..  after all they are a drivers car....    But there are alway the exceptions.. 

 

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You could try hot zinc spray.  20 years ago I had my old spitfire chassis sand blasted then they spray zinc wire through a very hot flame melting it just before it sticks to the metal.   You will still need to waxoiil the inside however.   The guys who did mine said most of the time they were coating metal structures that spent their entire life under sea.

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Cheers Guys,

I suppose it would be a cross between a 'garage queen' and a' regular user'.

I would generally be looking to get around 2k miles per year out of her..... fortunately or unfortunately I have 6 Esprits (dependant on whether you are me or my wife)!

I do love the thought of HDG but what is the cost and there is some pitting at the front that I would love to correct; is there anyway of sorting that (lead maybe?).

If I painted her I could always fill the pitting with a filler.

If painting is the answer; then is it spray or brush on (again; different people have different opinions)?

Thanks for the responses so far!

Cheers

Mark

 

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9 hours ago, Ginger pig said:

I do love the thought of HDG but what is the cost and there is some pitting at the front that I would love to correct; is there anyway of sorting that (lead maybe?).

Depends on how bad the pitting is,  Slight surface should not be an issue the Galve process will stabilize , any visual effect will be partly disguised by the coating.   Lead has a lower melting point than Zinc so can not be used as a filler.    Bad pitting which  could compromise function will need addressing , removal and replacement of section ,  followed by HDG will make any work all but invisible.   Cost will depend on whether you do it all yourself or contract out to a pro..  The later with collection , media blasting, then full galve process, followed by machining certain points ,geo check and delivery ,  you should expect to pay upwards of £1k ,  depending on distances and the cost of zinc at the time.  etc.. and how much  other correction work is needed 

9 hours ago, Ginger pig said:

If I painted her I could always fill the pitting with a filler.

 I Don't recommend filler on any rust pitting , even when media blasted.  Best filling solution is lead loading the affected area then sand down to finish, before paint process..  This will ensure any ingrained corrosion that media blasting could not get to is prevented from reappearing.. There are some brush on anti rust coatings that could be used for cheaper quicker less technical options.   Pays ya money takes ya chances. !   The restoration pro's use lead because they know it works and lasts. unfortunately with the new health and safety rules , finding someone may be awkward.  ( but you could do it yourself,) 

 

 

 

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Cheers Dave,

I will take a little time to think about all that has been said.

I quite like the idea of learning a new skill with lead loading but that then eliminates the option of galvanising.......

At least I can go in with my eyes open!

Cheers

Mark

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I had to reweld a broken weld on a friends esprit  (where the T meets the backbone) so when it was time to work on my esprit I made this , it is a copy of what lotus did on the later esprit chassis , I think lotus was aware of the weakness in this part. so if you are still at the beginning of chassis work you can do this as well before you put any coating on it, this is what I call chassis preparation..... :-) 

chassis.png

Edited by lotus-62
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