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Glyn Harper

Gearbox removal advice

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I think you might be worrying about this a bit too much, just get your breaker bar on them and undo them, you won't need to clamp the flywheel.

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I'm not in a rush doing it as my gearbox is going to be away for a couple of months, so it's worth the exercise to get the right bit. That clamp was only a tenner.

As the engine is still in the car, there's not a huge amount of space to work in with the 2' breaker bar I have, so anything that will minimise cut knuckles/damaged ring gear will help.

I know you guys probably managed it ok, but whenever I do a job on the Esprit, if something can go wrong, it will!! :)

Far too cold in my garage at the moment to work on the car anyway. I can put the fan heater on, but that just costs £££ I'd rather not spend for the sake or taking my time and working when it's slightly warmer than -5 degrees in there. :)

 

Edited by Glyn Harper

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Borrowed a nice DeWaltDCF889 impact driver off someone. Wow!! Each bolt was literally two hammer clicks, then they just span off without the flywheel budging a fraction. Amazing!! Flywheel now off, and ready for shipping to HT on Monday. Ace!!

Here's a picture of the impact driver below. Not cheap though, about £250!! Glad I was able to just borrow one. :)

Got the rear crank seal cover off as well. It had a gasket, whereas the manual says to use loctite 518.

I've had conflicting advice about using a gasket, or just using the loctite 518 as gaskets eventually soak with oil and leak apparently. It was SJ who suggested a gasket, but my brother in law who's a mechanic who said stick to the loctite. Just wondering what others have done. Ta.

 

DCF889M2_3-4.jpg

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56 minutes ago, Chillidoggy said:

Permabond A136 is the Lotus recommended sealant if you're not using a gasket.

Is that for the rear crank seal cover ?? I’ve a new gasket in the garage - is it better to use permabond or the gasket ??


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Just now, Barrykearley said:

Is that for the rear crank seal cover ?? I’ve a new gasket in the garage - is it better to use permabond or the gasket ??

Well, the S4/S4s service notes specify the Permabond, so I guess that's what you should use.

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Margate Exotics.

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I asked SJ Sportscars and they said the permabond is good for new engines, but once they’ve been in service and the surfaces are less than perfect, they prefer to use a gasket. The baskets are so cheap I don’t think they’re sating that just for a sale.

however my brother in law who is a mechanic says use permabond as gaskets eventually get soaked and can then effectively act as a wick allowing oil to swap through.

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That stuffs not cheap is it !! Ho hum - tube bought 


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What type of loctite do I need......


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Yeah - another tube of snot bought off amazon. 

So this special tool - is it really needed ??DFCB02DB-5A3D-4B25-BB33-97F21027113A.thumb.png.4320c587797bd1c4776bac4118120be3.png


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Just be careful, make sure there's no rough/sharp areas on the crank (that could cut the seal), and make sure the lip of the seal doesn't get distorted/ turned inside out etc. If the crank has a very visible indentation where the seal has warn it, consider setting the seal in an extra mm or so, so that it meets a bigger diameter area of the crank and therefore seals better.

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4 hours ago, Glyn Harper said:

I hope not. I’m not buying one!! I think you can just oil the surface of the rubber seal and be careful. 

The special tool is also to ensure the housing remains perfectly central over the crank as it's torqued down, I would think as long as you carefully fit all the bolts/screws a bit at a time and in a sequence like a cylinder head the tension of the seal against the crank surface should hold the seal housing in the correct position.

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2 hours ago, Glyn Harper said:

Good call Andy, cheers for that.

What are your thoughts regarding a gasket or Loctite 518?

Gasket @Glyn Harper, you can wipe away the excess Loctite on the outside, if over applied the excess on the inside can harden, drop off and end up blocking oilways.

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Great, cheers Steve. I guess use some Wellseal on the gasket as well.

I was going to do the tightening thing on the housing as well, but god you reminded me. Finger tight, then nip them up gradually working with opposite screws as I go. 

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I have changed a few oil seals now and been luck enough not to have one leek. Always sued a gasket but never used he tool. Once the seal is in the housing, just offer it up and finger tight the bolts all the way round eventual tighten them up a bit a a time as per a cylinder head as previously mentioned. And yes, if you have a mark on the shaft just try getting the seal a couple of microns off the mark.

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3 hours ago, Chillidoggy said:

That's a useful guide Ian, well worth printing to keep at the back of the service manual. 

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If you have a look at the crank flange, you should be able to see a witness mark where the lip seal has sat as a thin shiny ring on the otherwise brown-ish flange. In my case, this was fairly well forward, so I've made sure the seal depth is a little further aft of the original service notes specification. This should ensure the lip runs on a 'new' part of the crank flange. I also polished the flange after measuring.

If yours has previously a gasket fitted, then I would imagine the lip would sit a little further back than if only sealant was used. If you do have a groove in the crank flange, then I suggest you position the seal in the carrier accordingly, measuring with a Vernier caliper. But in any case, getting it correctly aligned in the carrier is crucial.

 

Sits and waits for Barry to take the piss about rear seal leakage...........

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Margate Exotics.

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I’m sure you were leaking front and rear last time we met?


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