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Glyn Harper

Gearbox removal advice

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28 minutes ago, Barrykearley said:

I’m sure you were leaking front and rear last time we met?

Yes, but I’m much better now.

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Going to try and get the old spigot bearing out in the next day or so using the grease method.

When I put the new one in, does it get greased? I've got lithium grease I could use. I gather not to use too much as it could splatter out onto the clutch plate. Any thoughts though?

Also, I think the manual says to loctite the outer race of the bearing before pushing it in. Is that necessary? And do you need a special tool to fit the bearing? I've been told just tap it in gently around the outside and it'll just go in, in about 5 or 6 seconds. Does it bottom out on a lip or something so I know it's in correctly?

Cheers.

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14 hours ago, Glyn Harper said:

Going to try and get the old spigot bearing out in the next day or so using the grease method.

When I put the new one in, does it get greased? I've got lithium grease I could use. I gather not to use too much as it could splatter out onto the clutch plate. Any thoughts though?

Also, I think the manual says to loctite the outer race of the bearing before pushing it in. Is that necessary? And do you need a special tool to fit the bearing? I've been told just tap it in gently around the outside and it'll just go in, in about 5 or 6 seconds. Does it bottom out on a lip or something so I know it's in correctly?

Cheers.

That info is all in the service notes.

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Cheers, found it. :)

struggling to get the spigot bearing out though. Tried the grease trick but it’s not having it. Think I’m going to have to source a suitable puller. Anyone know a suitable one at all? The hole in the bearing is 17mm and the outer diameter is 35mm. Ta. 

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You might pull that out with a spring toggle plasterboard fixing, if not the correct tool would be a blind bearing puller.

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First off, you need to be using a drift which just fits the inside diameter, otherwise the grease will be forced out. Try using bread, and a club hammer.

If it fails using the bread method, then search for 'pilot bearing puller', that will get you in the running for one of these -

 

61GaMF4kGsL__SL1231_.jpg

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Well I've never seen that done before, just goes to show you're never to old to learn.

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Cheers chaps. I’ll try again tomorrow with bread. I had seen that but tried with CV2 grease today (Redline. Good stuff!) but it kept oozing out. Bread may be better as it’s thicker I guess.

faiking that, I’ll order one of those killer sets tomorrow evening sometime. Cheers!

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1 hour ago, Chillidoggy said:

 

I’ve seen all sorts of things rammed into small orifices before on the Internet - but that one is new to me ? 

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Presently buying a million new nuts and bolts.

could you let me know how long the bolts are which fix the flywheel on please??

a907e6020z in Lotus part number terms 

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Dunno about the lengths, but from memory the threads are either Andalusian Goat-herder's Fine, or Venezuelan Beaver Thread.

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Clutch cover are M8x20 hex head with spring washers. I’m using titanium ones to slightly decrease weight of the whole assembly. And be corrosion resistant.

The flywheel bolts are an imperial size and thread. They appear to be something like 15/16” long and possibly 3/8” UNF thread but I don’t have any known 3/8 nuts to double check as they could be whitworth or something.

I think they’re high tensile too, so you’re better buying the actual ones. You really don't want to cross thread them going into your crank!! SJ Sportscars do replacement ones that are a bit cheaper than OEM, but if your OEM ones are ok, I'd re use them. I am. They cleaned up fine with a wire brush to get the old loctite off them.

Edited by Glyn Harper

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So I have my gearbox back from Chris Cole! It's going in tonight, although I'm only dropping it in place tonight, not doing the whole job.

Does anyone know the torque settings for the bolts that hold the gearbox to the engine block? Can't find them anywhere. And I'm assuming it's ok to use loctite as well?

Cheers.

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Glyn, I hope you're being exceedingly careful in choosing SS hardware for any stressed application, as most such stuff here in North America is Grade 2, or worse. Shite, in other words. Proper spec for any stressed automotive assembly would be 8.8 or 10.9 rated in Metric, Grades 5 or 8 in Imperial sizes. Best of all for Imperial fasteners would be AN or MIL spec.

Regarding crank seal locating one can offer up an appropriately small drill shank at 3 points circumferentially to effectively eyeball concentricity with the crank hub.

Cheers 

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The bolts that came out seemed to be just normal zinc plated steel ones, so hopefully these stainless ones will be better.

The gearbox is in, after a struggle. Problem I have it the release bearing! I sat it correctly on the shaft, located it on the fork, but in moving the gearbox into place it's rotated slightly as there doesn't seem to be anything holding it in place properly. I made sure the tag bit on the end was on the correct way, so I'm hoping it will just rotate itself around when the engine is run. It can't really go anywhere as it's held on the shaft by the clutch one side and the clutch fork on the other side. Just the cage bit needs to sort of rotate if you follow what I mean?

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Can you not poke it in the right location through the fork slot with a torch and a pokey thing??

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I think it more or less is in place. The fact there is nothing that really holds it in place leads me to believe it just sits there, then spins around once into the correct place where the cage bit catches it. That’s all I think it can do.

heres a picture take with my WiFi endoscope. :)

ECB2B5B3-AB86-459D-B33F-82851E46A854.png

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