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I can' bring myself to spend the quoted £700 for a wash and polish........

There's more to it than that but that's what it basically boils down to.........

Just wondered if anyone had had a bash themselves and with what results?

The paint need washing, clay/de-ironizing.....them a polish and wax........

I'e seen these sprays that are supposed to take the contamination out of paint.....but also clay bars........

Any pointers much appreciated 

Thanks

Gareth 

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I simply don’t have the patience for it. That’s probably 3-4 days of effort they are quoting there.

@swindon_alan gets a real nice shine on his with clay 

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I'd say I'm quite in to car cleaning and it can be a minefield. The quote you've had would be for a cut, polish and possibly a wet sand in areas which should result in a finish that would look as good as a fresh respray.

However, if you're looking for a finish that has a good shine and minimal swirls that doesn't go down the route of mopping you'll be surprised how close you can get (unless you inspect it under a lamp etc). I also appreciate from talking to the majority of my friends and family, they want a clean shiny car but they want the results to be achieved easily and cheaply!

Use a car shampoo - you'll be surprised how good Tesco's own Wash&Wax is.

Then wash again but while doing it use Bilt Hamber clay bar (the soft version). I found this made the greatest difference in the feel and state of the finish. Brilliant product.

Next you either go down the compound route which in reality you should do using a rotary or DA and really needs practice to get a professional finish. This is where the majority of your £700 will go.

If you miss out the compound step you use products that "fill" the minor scratches something like Autoglym SRP or Poorboy's Blackhole are great products that are readily available.

You then need to protect all this by topping it with a Wax and/or Sealant. There's lots of options out there that differ in ease of application. Collinite for example have a hard wax 476 to an easily applied insulation wax 875.

Then you can us a detailing spray to "refresh" this lot or use for show shine etc, I recommend SONAX brilliant shine detailer.

There are also a multitude of wheel and cockpit products blah, blah.....

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Wash with a good shampoo like Auto Glym Ultra High Definition, clay bar all over, Meguiars Three Step - 1: Paint Restorer, 2: Polish, 3: Carnuba Wax. As recommended by @Alex Carter. They do other products for scratch removal yadda yadda

DSC_0022.thumb.JPG.ef61b7b265e324af96c088f749ff88c8.JPG

@Barrykearley, yep - it took me about two to three days solid to do the whole car. It will be time to do it again in the spring before event season.

 

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Professional Detailers will always do a better job. But you can do a good job yourself.  Its time you need which is where PRO Detailers get you great results without your time being reduced. 

Also there is a lot of learning to be good at detailing - Someone mentioned wet sanding in this tread - I would strongly recommend not using a detailer suggesting that this is needed.  Lotus Cars do not have hard paint and therefore wet sanding is not necessary.  I would suspect that your £700 quote is based on a ceramic coating.  Ceramic coatings do need good prep work which helps to the finish.   

If this is the case its worth considering wax instead of ceramic sealants.  There are pro's can con's for each. 

If your choosing a wax you could do it yourself if your looking for ceramic coating get a professional. 

If you want advise on prep work for a wax let me know and I can give you directions and explain the reasons for each procedure. 

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Greg

thanks

its a 1967 Elan with a repaint in 2 pak......

the guy I spoke to was doing

pre wash......

wash/snow foam.....

decontamination/clay........

then swirl removal/very fine cut......

and finally wax......

 

Im sure with all the available product out now that I can do all of those stages......the only one Id probably be crap at is the swirl removal/fine cut...........

the wax I have is Zymol Concours.....

thanks for your help

cheers

G

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Polishing is not that difficult if you use the right tools.  Machine polishers there are two main types

Rotary - For professional use only.  Great tools but can get you in trouble quickly.

DA (dual action Polishers) - Like this one http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polishing-machines/das-6-pro-plus-dual-action-polisher/das-6-pro-plus-15mm-dual-action-polisher/prod_1452.html  These tools are great for beginners or experts.  What is important is choosing the right pads and Polish.  

I can recommend the right ValetPRO products to use on a basic detail that will remove light swirls and enhance gloss prior to waxing.  If you want this information please let me know.

Your Zymol wax will do fine.  I do however recommend waxing cars each month.  With good quality waxes they will last 3+ months but by applying monthly you build your wax layers and I have noticed that over the first 3 months you notice an improvement of finish each time.  Continuing to apply each months maintains the finish whilst adding depth to your paint work.

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I have used clay on a number of my cars the results are brilliant. Clay then two layers of auto glym red polish then one of the gold takes about 4 days or it did on my 911 but the ultimate result is stunning and cheeper than£700 plus the satisfaction is high.

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On 25/11/2017 at 23:01, theelanman said:

I can' bring myself to spend the quoted £700 for a wash and polish........

There's more to it than that but that's what it basically boils down to.........

Just wondered if anyone had had a bash themselves and with what results?

The paint need washing, clay/de-ironizing.....them a polish and wax........

I'e seen these sprays that are supposed to take the contamination out of paint.....but also clay bars........

Any pointers much appreciated 

Thanks

Gareth 

Would you take your car to a mechanic and pay £50 pre hour or more?  Is there a difference between a rolex and a casio watch?

Why do you feel that detailing is any less skillful than other work? 

If it was just a wash and a polish everyone could do it.  The truth is it's so much more that washing and polishing.  Two people can use the same products on a car and get totally different results. 

Have a look at the detailers work, what products they use ceramic coatings etc, you are paying for their skill and knowledge and should get a top quality service.

http://www.nidetailing.co.uk/what-is-car-detailing/

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Paint correction (polishing) is the most difficult and time-consuming part.  If your paint is not too badly swirled you could potentially skip this stage.   For a car whose paint isn't in too bad condition a good clean, clay bar and wax/sealant will have the car looking good and can easily be done in half a day even for no experience and allowing for lots of tea/beer/chocolate breaks.

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@[email protected] I work on my own car......I pay the £50 an hour if I am unable to do the work myself (which is usually down to time constraints)

I dont see detailing as compulsory....just a nice to have, hence the difficulty in approving the price I was given

if I was to build and engine I would buy the parts and put it together myself.....

the detailers products are available so I think that will be my route.......I'll put some work in........

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No way could I do any mechanical work on my car but I can detail.  Yes most of the products are available to buy in the shops excluding approved detailer ceramic coatings.  But detailing to a high standard is more than just buying and applying products.  Quite a few 'detailers' can't manage it either, some will use a wax or a sealant as these contain fillers and mask any surface defects untill a month or two down the line when they have washed off.

This is mine, this had been 'detailed' before sale and this is what it looked like after i removed the wax with tardis

yuE6Yze.jpg

I wet sanded it as it had orange peel

hrxwPyZ.jpg

3qIaw1s.jpg

Now it looks like this witth Gyeon on top

GCVnUVR.jpg

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so Im still no further along............I have the elbow grease ready to go....

just need a list of the best for.....

'snow' foam

paint decontaminator

clay

other stuff

wax (altho' I have still got a large tub of Zymol concours)

any pointer greatly received......especially as my wife says shes still looking for my Christmas present

lol..

:thumbsup:

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4 hours ago, theelanman said:

so Im still no further along............I have the elbow grease ready to go....

just need a list of the best for.....

'snow' foam

paint decontaminator

clay

other stuff

wax (altho' I have still got a large tub of Zymol concours)

any pointer greatly received......especially as my wife says shes still looking for my Christmas present

lol..

:thumbsup:

Snow foam doesn't really bring much to the party, its a bit of a gimic, people like pictures of cars covered in foam...

Fall out remover - Ironx - gtechniq w6 fallout remover - Gyeon Q2m iron are all about as good as each other, this will also clean your alloys.

Clay - no one is using clay bars anymore get a clay towel or clay mitt, they are 10 times faster, last longer and can be used again if you drop them.

Tardis - you should use a good solvent tar and glue remover, this will also remove any wax or sealant on the paint, its also great for cleaning tires and rubber.

Polish - are you going to be using a machine or polishing by hand?

Glass - don't forget the glass, polish it as well and coat it with a good nano coating e.g. Gyeon view.

Wash - Gwash by gtechniq or bathe by Gyeon bathe is probably better of the two.

Tyre dressing - gtechniq, Gyeon and Zaino are exelent.

Don't use a wax all the cool kids are into ceramic coatings now.  If you aren't comfortable applying one go for a long lasting sealant like carlack 68 the klasse twins or jeff werkstat.  You also have c2v3 from gtechniq or wetcoat from Gyeon which is probably the better of the two.

Interior dressing 303 aerospace protectant, meguiars matt dash or gtechniq c6 matt dash, meguiars glass cleaner is great and smells good too, dodo supernatural leather cleaner is the best.

If you want to go totally mad and degrease engine and door shuts use billet hammer.

I think that should cover most things any problems feel free to hit me up.

Shopping wise :-

www.polishedbliss.co.uk - free postage and great advise about products and how to use them.
www.cleanyourcar.co.uk - dw5 for a 5% discount.
www.elitecarcare.co.uk
www.nidetailing.co.uk/care-landing-page/-  free car care eBook

 

 

 

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@Greg | ValetPro, I have one of your starter kits boxes and have a few questions regarding applying the wax.  I was planning on giving the car a good clean with supplied shampoo, drying the car and then applying the wax using the supplied foam applicator.  

People above are suggesting a polish is needed before waxing.  Is this just for optimal results or because it really is needed? ie for a basic finish can I skip this step?

Do I also use the foam applicator to buff the wax or is this just to apply the wax?  Would a basic budget level rotary polish machine be ok to buff the wax? http://amzn.eu/9epD0oJ. What material should the pad be made out of for buffing the wax?

If a polish is needed will this remove the ceramic coating I have on the paintwork?  From my understanding polishing uses a cutting compound which is abrasive and removes a very fine amount of paint so am wary that the ceramic coating will be removed too?

thank you.

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Your right if you use a Polish it will remove some or all of your ceramic coating.  So a polish is not needed.  

For cars without ceramic coatings, polish prior to waxing is ideal.   What it does is help remove bonded contamination on the paint surface. (your find contamination still sticks to ceramic coating albeit less).  By removing contamination from the paint surface it gives the paint the ability to reflect all the light from the paint surface which aids the gloss and visual impact of the paint.  It gives a better base for the wax to shine from.  There are lots of ways to deep clean the paint surface and professional detailers will adopt and use a combination for cleansing process to give the paint that fresh deep gloss finish. Its not just how good the wax it the is a lot of impact that can be made in the prep if you have time.

Having said all that you can just use a wax and get a great finish. With a ceramic base your likely find that it will give the wax an extra lift anyway.  Kits normally have our Mad Wax.  Use a small amount of wax and spread thinly using the wax applicator provided in the kit.  You should also have a micro fibre cloth for buffing.  You will not need to use a machine to buff the wax up, Mad Wax is a really easy wax to use and buff off. If you over apply this is easy to notice because the wax will not cure off easily.  You need a nice thin coat. a 250ml tub should wax 10 Lotus Evora's easily.  If your getting through the wax that a good indication of over use.

 

hope this helps if you have any more questions please let me know.

here is a video showing how to apply and buff off.  https://www.valetpro.eu/Waxes/97-/Mad-Wax

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Fantastic, thank you for the info that was very helpful.  Glad to see the wax will easily buff to a shine with just a wipe or two.  I feared it would be like polishing and require a bit of elbow grease.

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