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'81 Dry Sump clutch shaft stuck solid - Gearchange/Gearbox/Clutch - The Lotus Forums Jump to content
Steve4012

'81 Dry Sump clutch shaft stuck solid

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Hi all,

I realise this probably isn't good news. No circlip found in gearbox when I removed it and the clutch shaft came out of the gearbox and is stuck fast towards the crank. The shaft rotates freely and has a tiny amount of back and forth give also so it's not completely seized in place but I'm struggling to get the shaft out to assess any damage. Any tips anyone?!

Thanks, Steve.

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Clamp a big pair of grips over the shaft and clout them repeatedly with a mallet.

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Tried that, no joy although I'll keep going. Will it be stuck on the bearing or the crank do you think. I'm in unchartered territory. Not sure whether heat will be ok in this area and/or if it will do any good.

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If it's rotating freely then it must be the bearing.  I'd persevere with giving it the good news.  Surely it'll give up in the end!

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Cheers Sparky, much beating and it finally came out. Damage assessment now. The photo attached shows the clutch shaft has moved forward and if the bearing is supposed to be flush with the crank surface the bearing has now moved 8.5 mm further in. The 1st shiny bit in the recess is where the bearing is now. I believe there is a mod to fit a larger bearing. The difference of the diameter between existing bearing and clutch shaft is only 2.9mm. Is it possible the bearing can be returned to its flush position by enlarging to fit the new bigger bearing and therefore cleaning up where the clutch shaft has moved forward? (Hope that makes sense!) @top-plumber and @Gotti have been through this recently. Any advise much appreciated.

Steve.

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Hi Steve,my Crankshaft wasn,t damaged,i was wrong.so we only changed the spigot bearing.You can take the crank to a machine shop or to an engine rebuilder and ask for advice.My crank wasn,t damaged like yours but the main and big end sections were a bit oval and so we had to grind 0,010 off from the crank and buy new shells and now it turns very freely.Maybe you have to grind your crank too+the machining for a bigger inputshaft bearing..........If i were you i would buy a new crankshaft and the main and big end bearings. Either way your crank has to be removed from the engine.I feel sorry for you and i,m not a specialist,so please get some more advice for your problem.My engine rebuilder does all this work for me.

My rebuild is nearly completed so don't hesitate to ask me for some advice.If i can help i will ! 

Good luck........Gotti

 

 

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Gotti, I don't think his crank is damaged to the extent he can't fit a replacement bearing? Hopefully a new bearing will be a decent interference fit, and the input shaft isn't damaged once you have the old bearing off.

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Thanks guys and don't feel sorry for me Gotti, I've been lucky with the car so far! I'll get the crank out and hopefully can get it machined like Sparky says. I'll do some digging but the larger bearing mod must have been done quite a lot, if anyone knows the specs/ part no's of a suitable bearing that would be great...

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If you are taking the crank out, get it drilled and an insert fitted that will take the standard bearing.

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Google around Steve,Tim Engel postet it somewhere and the correct dimensions for the bearing mod ....i can,t remember where i read that post.........maybe Lotustalk.Yes you should be lucky,you own a dry sump Esprit :animier:

http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f164/question-about-88-citroen-gearbox-mating-engine-124140/ 

Yes Sparky,you,re right.Ether way will work.

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Thanks again both you guys, will contact @dsvitesse1 for the stronger circlip and maybe the uprated bearing too if he does those as I quite like the idea of being extra sure this doesn't happen again :)

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I have had my crankshaft reground on the mains and I’m going to machine the bearing counterbore to accept the ball bearing upgrade as on the S4 crankshaft. The spigot on the input shaft needs rubbing down about .001/.0015” and will be a complete solution to any movement due to thrust from the shaft. I will post pics when complete. 

FAA1445C-E613-4AA2-8439-16CFB4595AB8.jpeg

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Cheers Wayne, look forward to seeing. Is it correct with the uprated bearing, the nylatron washer can be left off as long as an uprated circlip from Harry Martens is fitted or best to fit the washer as well as extra security.

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My S4 didn’t have the nylatron washer. The circlip upgrade is unnecessary IMO as the new bearing can resist thrust from the input shaft if the circlip fails. 

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That looks great Wayne! Did you ream out to 11mm or deeper?

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11 hours ago, Steve4012 said:

That looks great Wayne! Did you ream out to 11mm or deeper?

11 hours ago, Steve4012 said:

bored out to 11mm as the depth on the bearing requires. That’s all. It’s a smooth fit. No interference. I will loctite it in as one day it may need to come out again. 

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