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PhilW

Compomotive refurb

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I have removed my Compomotive wheels today and replaced with a spare set of BBS that I have.  The idea is:

  • Strip and polish
  • Possibly powder coat the centers
  • Use new coned washer (i have)
  • Replace all the  nuts bolts and washers

Can anyone advise

  • What type of bolts should I use?  Stainless or High tensile steel
  • Are nyloc nuts OK?
  • I think I will find at least 1 large O ring inside.  Can I buy these somewhere?
  • I know these are known for leaking. I think I have seen better methods of sealing these wheels using modern materials. Can anyone advise on this?
  • I assume there is a dismantling method and reassembly method re bolting and torquing.  Again any advise would be appreciated.

Many thanks

Phil

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Hi Phil,

 

Dave aka Lotusman33 has done numerous sets of these. Might be worth popping him a PM

Cheers

Stu

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Cheers Stuart

Have sent him a message.

Phil

 

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Hi Phil

I am just doing mine at the moment, this will be my third set and so far no leaks..

There are a few methods to do these as demonstrated on the forum but for me;

Strip the wheels and get the centres and inner barrels powder coated, my centres will be powder sprayed once I machine the centres to take the alloy centre caps.

Prior to painting the inners make sure they are dressed/filed flat on the sealing face as 20 bolt Comps tend to distort more than 30 bolt ones.

There are 'O' seals which will look completely square and flat when removed along with no doubt breaking up as you remove.

Once outer barrels are polished you can rebuild, I always use new Gaco cord (O seal cord) which you can buy online. Don't worry about the width of the O seal groove as the depth is more important when deciding the diameter of the new cord. Don't go too thick as it only needs to protrude slightly to seal. Always cut the ends square and glue with the correct O seal glue ( Loctite 404).

I then use some Loctite 574 face sealant on the inner face where the O seal fits to seal from moisture and corrosion.

I use black plated Stainless cap screws (not cheap but won't corrode like normal black cap screws) and nyloc nuts with washers.

Once built I then mask a 25 mm - 30 mm ring/band on the inner wheel and run some Sikaflex sealant around the wheel which will be hidden by the tyre. Only needed really due to the old barrels having that slight distortion from use where the 20 bolts pull together, seals and protects from further corrosion.

Buy some nice new stainless tyre valves to finish the look.

Dave :) 

IMG_1964.JPG.139868e1023c7d2d920a860816c04186.JPGIMG_1965.JPG.8639f8a3c184867a226d6e1e56aac24f.JPGIMG_1966.JPG.fb0ba1b6ebca0043d9f208e0aa37bc40.JPGIMG_1967.JPG.57d31aa3e687fd991171ac33c635cb28.JPG

Only ones I have photos of on my IPad which I did years ago.

 

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That's great. Thanks Dave. I'll strip one and see what I find. Will no doubt ask you more questions. Hope that's ok 

Phil

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O ring worked much better than several attempts with more modern methods. Totally airtight since.

I have black stainless bolts with nyloc nuts. I have been told that the high tensile steel bolts are better due to the material being more ductile but no issues so far. They are worth taking off and re tightening after 100 miles or so. A bit of a pain but well worth doing. I did it all by hand because several nuts were threaded by a Refurber using power tools. Labour of love these wheels but worth it if done properly, they’ll behave themselves. Good luck!

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Jonny. When you say O ring do you mean the Gaco cord that Dave has used?

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Sorry, never heard of Gaco cord, pretty sure it was just a length of regular O ring for my wheels. Heard endless stories about how great modern silicon seals are, all of them leaked! Used to have to check tyre pressures before every drive, haven’t lost a single psi in months since they were done the old school way.

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Great thanks. Hopefully will dismantle one in the week. Dave and Jonny, be ready for a million questions ?

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Nice Steve.   I shall also be polishing myself. Can you offer any advice?  Type of polishing clothes, polishing liquid and method. 

Would be much appreciated. 

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Phil mine were beyond simply polishing back to a nice finish. I had to break out the sand paper in various guises/ machines, start course and work through the grades before even thinking about polishing. A palm sander worked great on the face once disassembled. I think I started with 180 grit or thereabouts and progressed finer aling the lines of 180, 400, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000. Then I got some polishing mops off ebay to use with a drill and used with autosol. The rims were more difficilt due to curvature and needed some experimentation. I had to follow a similar grit pattern but a mixture of dremmel and drill with attachments and hand sanding before polishing with the same drill attachments. If you can still see the marks from the previous grade sand paper you need to keep going until they're gone before moving to the next grade. I had a lot of curb marks and angle grinder and flap disc with careful use got rid of every bit and after the above process came out great. If yours simply require a polish then that's good news!

Steve.

*before pic attached

20170508_124921_001.jpg

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Steve

Blimey youve done a good job considering the damage before you started.

Dave

I assume powder coating is safe. Not sure of the temperatures involved but I guess not excessive and no warping experienced?

Phil

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Nice work Steve yours are looking great ?? What size centre caps did you use?

As said there are several ways to rebuild these wheels 

Yes Phil powder coating is fine but make sure you talk to the workshop, mine use a different compound for wheels which is sprayed and baked, gives a very hard wearing finish.

Dave :) 

 

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On 10/12/2017 at 18:30, PhilW said:

Can you offer any advice?  Type of polishing clothes, polishing liquid and method. 

Belgom Alu is an excellent polish, more abrasive than standard metal polishes, with a high wax content to keep them looking good. :thumbup:

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On 10/12/2017 at 18:19, Steve4012 said:

I didn't use any cord or beading at all with mine. @Final Editiondid a good guide on here. Mine have been perfect for 5 months or so with no leakage. Just thorough cleaning of all old paint, silicone etc on sealing surfaces and plenty of sealant on reassembly both while bolting together and a couple of extra layers once they're all back together in the groove between the face and the barrel. Home sanding/ polishing took a while but came up really well in my opinion.

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Hi Steve, those cx 500 centres look like the type that have a groove cut in them somthe plastic centre clips into the groove? I'm guessing the new centres are 61 mm. Did you have them made bespoke to clip in or put them in from the rear? Thanks.

Hi Phil,

please can you put links to the suppliers as I have to remake my wheels now also, cheers.

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Hi Fabian

I got them from Supaspin. Ordered 61mm initially but they didn't fit so changed for 59mm and fitted from back and they work well.

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Thanks Steve.

You've done an excellent job on those!

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Well just been to a local wheel refurbishers to discuss my centers.  Found some more Compomotives there from an Esprit.  The centers have been machined from new.  From the description of the customer I know who it is but unfortunately cant remember his name.  Seems to have spent a fortune.  Hopefully will see his cars appear before too long as I suspect they maybe exceptional.

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On 28/12/2017 at 12:05, PhilW said:

Well just been to a local wheel refurbishers to discuss my centers.  Found some more Compomotives there from an Esprit.  The centers have been machined from new.  From the description of the customer I know who it is but unfortunately cant remember his name.  Seems to have spent a fortune.  Hopefully will see his cars appear before too long as I suspect they maybe exceptional.

Do you mean the centres have been machined from a billet? 

If So how good are they?

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Jonny

no idea who did the machining but could probably find out if you really wanted. 

Fabian

Yes machined from a billet. Looked OK. They were due for powder coating so would be interested to see them afterwards. The edges on the spokes were very sharp which compared to mine was not quite right. Mine are rounded. This sharpness may reduce when coated. I don't know. Quite impressive though. I guess they must have got a drawing or maybe created one. 

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Phil please could you find out who did em and how much? It's frustrating over here how we are so backward with the tech. In the states there are lots of companies that will scan the original using a laser and make a perfect copy.

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Ok. Leave it with me. 

When are you off to Florida?

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