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PAUL GURNEY

Power steering pump

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Hi All

Any hints or tips on power steering pump removal

Cheers Paul

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Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.

Yeah - loose all the skin off your knuckles....

and swear - a lot.

and don’t be frightened to cut down spanner’s to suit

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As above.

I gave up on trying to remove the pump mounting caphead bolts from the block, and just removed the pump itself.

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I have slackened off the 3 mounting bolts to the block, just would like to know if taking off the pump and mount as one is the way and more importantly is it the easier way to refit? 

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I removed mine from the mount. Don't try it all together. There just is not enough room to swing it to get it out. I also found that removing the heat shield just behind it and leaving one of the hoses on was the way to go as I could not get to it to undo it while it was on the engine. I found getting the new one in to be heaps easier than getting the old one out. No idea why.

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8 hours ago, PAUL GURNEY said:

I have slackened off the 3 mounting bolts to the block, just would like to know if taking off the pump and mount as one is the way and more importantly is it the easier way to refit? 

With the engine out - it’s a bit tricky to get off - bolts were seized on mine.

you can get it off in situ - no doubt about that. But it will be easier if you cut some spanner’s to suit. I know connectioning the hydraulic hoses I cut some spanner’s so I could get them tight

 

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Yes, already customized some spanners from doing this and other jobs ( now i see why i kept all those old spanners in the bottom draw of my tool box ):)

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On 4/2/2018 at 05:48, PAUL GURNEY said:

Yes, already customized some spanners from doing this and other jobs ( now i see why i kept all those old spanners in the bottom draw of my tool box ):)

It goes easier if you remove the belt pulley first. This will allow an access to the cap head bolt behind it. You'll need long lever to brake them up. The threads are fused solid.  Always use pure Nickel anti-seize paste on steel fasteners screwed into aluminium parts.

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On 15/04/2018 at 00:38, MrDangerUS said:

It goes easier if you remove the belt pulley first. This will allow an access to the cap head bolt behind it. You'll need long lever to brake them up. The threads are fused solid.  Always use pure Nickel anti-seize paste on steel fasteners screwed into aluminium parts.

I have replaced the original cap head bolt with a  small head (12mm hex) 8mm bolt, which can be torqued from the side using a ring spanner (no need to remove the pulley in the future).

IMG_7279.JPG

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