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Silent78

My 1990 Excel Se & my pals 1974 Hillman Imp Super

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Lovely in white. Had no troubles with mine door beams but it is important that you have a list how much spacers the door have on all points.

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I'll pop each of the M6 frame bolts through a piece of card as they come off with the spacers for each one on them. Draw a wee outline so i know were each one has come out of. I have to replace the door beams, hinge pins and Hinges, im also replacing the frames and  i have got window channel lifters to fit aswell. This is whats going to hold me up, bonding the window channel lift on to the drop glass and bonding in the quarter glass in to the new frame, although i could probably bond the window channel lift on and put some masking tape round it on to the glass until it sets, put some window felt around the quarter glass and tape that in place aswell then just seal quarter glass once frame is fitted and reconnect the window motor once the window channel lift sealant has set, if i do it this way i might get a door done in one day hmmmm. Just not sure how the hinge pin and bushes go together with the new beams, im ordering the beams at the end of the month, once i have them it will probably become a lot clearer lol. Thanks for the advice :-)

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The doors beams are fairly straight forward. The stainless steel bushes may need reaming to fit the new stainless hinge pins (1 did and 1 didn't on mine!). Getting the doors lined up is not quite as easy as replacing the spacer where you found them as the door can sit on the beam in a different position. The height of the door can be altered with the hinge but also from where it bolts to the beam.

I found the nearside door catch can foul on the beam too so check the cut out is the same as your old beams before fitting the door. 

The doors are not too bad for a reasonable mechanic but can take time to get correct. Don't expect to do them both in a weekend would be my advice.

Edited by mikeeech

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Thanks Mike,

                   Ill be happy if i can get one door done in a weekend lol, if i can at least get the beam fitted in one day so i can slide the door on just to enable me to put the car cover over it until i tackle it the following day i will be happy. I don't have a garage so I'm having to do everything outside, not ideal but you just have to get on with it. I was advised you can buy the door beams from Lotus bits and ask them to fit a hinge pin in the beam for you so I'm thinking this might be the way to go. It will safe me any grief when i start trying to fit the new ones.

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Thanks Tony,

                  Mikes blog has helped me so much over the last 18 months, specially with stripping down my front and rear brakes and putting everything back together again. The car in the blog is actually up for sale now and currently on ebay, anyone who buys this car will have a strong solid car with the amount of work he has put in to it. Ill have a wee look through it again, it really is a great read.

Tam

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I put a mark on the door seal at the latch end, just to give a rough guide for the catch. You only need to remove 1 hinge  bracket,so draw round it before you remove it. Get the beam roughly in the correct place, then put the door skin on. That can be adjusted on the beam, so get a good fit  in the body before fitting the window frame. Then it's a case of playing about with the window frame  shims. It's not rocket science try another shim for a closer fit to the seal, if it goes worse try removing the shims. It will always be a compromise.

Here's a couple of tips

The window glass should drop under it's own weight without the motor in, the shims will alter how well it will drop. Also if your mirror goes through the quarter glass, fit the inside plastic trim before sealing the quarter glass in. 

Make sure you make a noteof which bolts go where on the door latch. One is purposely short to stop damaging the window frame.

Edited by jason.goad

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