free hit
counters
Replacing pipes through the chassis on a V8... without removing the engine? - Page 2 - Interior/Exterior/Lights/Glass/Alarms/ICE/HVAC - The Lotus Forums #ForTheOwners Jump to content


Replacing pipes through the chassis on a V8... without removing the engine?


Recommended Posts

  • Gold FFM

Chris, you don't have a chargecooler so you'll only have 2 of the smaller pipes.  I'm less than an hour from you if you need someone with very bendy appendages!

British Fart to Florida, Nude to New York, Dunce to Denmark, Numpty to Newfoundland.  And Shitfaced Silly Sod to Sweden.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.
  • Replies 139
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

You make a good point Steve, I will put on my big boy pants and get the old bus rolling.  

While out and about, you met Richard Hammond, who then made an offer you could not refuse to provide much needed spares package for his S350

That's the closest to deserving a beer.       It only went a passed an MOT !!! 🙃 I took it in to get a todo list without checking anything myself beyond the obvious and they g

Posted Images

26 minutes ago, cweeden said:

This picture is helpful from Ian's thread. It shows what I assume are the larger water pipes at the top of the chassis, and four smaller pipes at the bottom of the chassis when I was only expecting two. Can someone explain what each one is for please?

Slightly different on the V8, same holes in the chassis, centre is servo vacuum (not used on the S4S) left of center recirculation pump to heater bypass valve, right of center heater return.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Gold FFM

Ok so the inspection camera turned up today and it works well, would probably like a wider angle lens and some lessons on pointing it in the right direction but regardless it helped a lot.

I am pretty sure it is the hose from the recirculation pump, it would be since it is the hardest to get to. Anyway I have managed to get my fingers on it, then a socket on it but nothing else. The camera shows what the fingers told me, the socket it too close the chassis to allow a ratchet or other attachment to hook into it. It is a 6mm fitting and that's the size of spanner I don't seem to have (probably do, just can't find it), so I ordered some from Amazon and will try again tomorrow.

I plan on releasing the clip and taking the hose off and cleaning the pipe before replacing the hose, however someone suggested I just tighten the clip and hope. What do the collective think is the best approach?

Here are a selection of pics that show you what I can see and that one is a bit messy. The others don't look too bad at all which is good news. Sorry about the focus on some, there's not much I can do about that without getting too close to see everything.

IMG_2668.thumb.JPG.eb996406003b4ac502f2d08ebc2128bd.JPGIMG_2669.thumb.JPG.5e37915c77b502ae80bb559cdd77bbde.JPGIMG_2670.thumb.JPG.ce8ed4e69e2ea62f7817af80266b61a0.JPGIMG_2671.thumb.JPG.9baa476453a87f669f3e1f311140d708.JPGIMG_2673.thumb.JPG.0f0c26decdbbaae4890aa7c11b17f158.JPGIMG_2676.thumb.JPG.a8b6f6601a771f3620a8a59bd5818173.JPG

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Gold FFM

Nowt lost by trying to tighten

worse case - the clip strips.

id personally remove - clean both bits and refit using a new quality clip

Only here once

Link to post
Share on other sites

Its no fun but you can replace those pipes on a 4 cylinder from the rear by removing the fuel tank balance pipe (Ian's photo illustrates this well).   Bear in mind you can also release the clips at the front of the car and push the pipes rearwards to give yourself more access to the clips

I had a leak at the same place caused by a small amount of debris accumulating in the 'shelf' at this point in the chassis where it meets the vertical plate with the holes.   This then rotted out the ally heater pipes from the outside.  NB As soon as I started investigating and cleaning up the area the leak got 10X worse!

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Gold FFM

I think I will see how easy it is to turn the screw on the clip and then see how much purchase on the hose I can get. If it is sufficient I will remove and (hopefully) improve the area and fittings, otherwise I will tighten and sacrifice something to the Lotus Gods in the hope it stops leaking.

" NB As soon as I started investigating and cleaning up the area the leak got 10X worse! "

Steve, your comment did put a smile on my face, I am expecting the worst so I can only be pleasantly surprised. 😄

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Chris, that area is a collection point for all sorts of detritus, I found a nice pair of pliers and my missing heatshield in there plus 20 years worth of thick gunge which after a weeks worth of swimming and bathing some of which still remains engrained into my fingernails. 

I would suggest that that jubilee clip has been very well lubricated throughout its life and should still be easily undone and retightened, mine was, the chances of getting the pipe off and back on without filling it with muck are slim with the engine in situ. 

I suggest just loosening the clip enough to turn it to where you can get your 6mm socket on it and retightening it to the specified torque (which is tighter than it was, and tight enough to stop the leek but not too tight to cut the hose)

Link to post
Share on other sites
On ‎09‎/‎05‎/‎2018 at 23:07, Barrykearley said:

Chargecooler and heater matrix pipes

And the one in between is for th vacuum pipe, if fitted.

EDIT - as has already been said by Steve V8

 

Here's a photo of my chassis pipes when I removed them. They were utterly shagged, holes in the ends, and leaking. If your pipes are the same age, then it's possible they could be in a similar condition, although it's so difficult to diagnose without removing them.

 

I remain sceptical about removing the alloy heater pipes from the front of the car though, I think the chassis obstructs them, but maybe someone here has done the job, and can confirm/deny that?

Photo 01-02-2017, 17 41 59.jpg

Margate Exotics.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Did you manage to fix it yet Chris?

Here are some pics of the V8 anyway,

DSC_0371.thumb.JPG.82d2f9c65473130a445181cc5c103b44.JPG

DSC_0372.thumb.JPG.8b26dda4e45db0a0087d1cf7dfc89b34.JPG

Should you need to replace the through chassis pipes, (which hopefully you won't) note, from the rear to clear the engine cradle cross brace you will need to significantly bend them. I'm not certain about removal from the front, but I'll get in there tomorrow and have a good look.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Gold FFM

As far as I'm aware, they ain't coming out either way without significant work.  I'd love to be proved wrong though...

British Fart to Florida, Nude to New York, Dunce to Denmark, Numpty to Newfoundland.  And Shitfaced Silly Sod to Sweden.

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Barrykearley said:

Question is - have I got a spare hole through the middle of mine ?? @Chillidoggy??

I can see where your going with this. New topic, 'Electric vacuum pump deletion'

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
16 hours ago, Sparky said:

As far as I'm aware, they ain't coming out either way without significant work.  I'd love to be proved wrong though...

OK, been under, the front suspension subframe blocks the heater pipes from removal from the front and obviously the radiator pack and lower valance would need to be dropped.

I would suggest simply drilling two perfectly placed 22mm access holes through the subframe to allow removal straight out the front, IMO much easier than engine and cross over pipe removal. DSC_0378.thumb.JPG.65f233b155bda6db1d2ecc2af0e426fc.JPG

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Gold FFM

Stuff that, when mine go it'll be the patented SparkyFlex solution. 😁

Actually, on reflection, I remember I did mine a few years ago!  Bit of a stem cell moment there.  

British Fart to Florida, Nude to New York, Dunce to Denmark, Numpty to Newfoundland.  And Shitfaced Silly Sod to Sweden.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Gold FFM

Life's full of tough choices; this isn't one of them.

British Fart to Florida, Nude to New York, Dunce to Denmark, Numpty to Newfoundland.  And Shitfaced Silly Sod to Sweden.

Link to post
Share on other sites
35 minutes ago, Sparky said:

Life's full of tough choices; this isn't one of them.

Im shocked that you of all people would be adverse to adding a few holes to that peticular structure. xenos_wing_010401_1-1.jpg.007d5d647d630c2dd66bdbf35095167f.jpg

Surprised that lightness wasn't added here anyway, Lotus ethos.

Link to post
Share on other sites

This is a straightforward mechanical job....   (6 hose clips).  Certainly on a 4 cyl, they clear the engine by a margin.  However, you do have to deflect them to clear a chassis cross member, but its within the limit of the flex of the tube and they do not deform from straight in any way.  

When refitting, the knack is to feed them in from the back of the car, but use a probe from the front of the car to meet the end being pushed through, this allows you to locate the front grommets without trying to do that blind from the back of the car.   

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Gold FFM

Are you speaking from experience?  On a G car?  Because I certainly can't do that on a Stevens.

British Fart to Florida, Nude to New York, Dunce to Denmark, Numpty to Newfoundland.  And Shitfaced Silly Sod to Sweden.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Gold FFM

It was a while ago, but I remember deciding they weren't coming out without damage.  I'll have to get under the S4 and take another look...

British Fart to Florida, Nude to New York, Dunce to Denmark, Numpty to Newfoundland.  And Shitfaced Silly Sod to Sweden.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Gold FFM
22 hours ago, Steve V8 said:

Did you manage to fix it yet Chris?

 

 

Hi Steve and all,

Not fixed yet but I have made some progress. I have the hose from the recirculation pump off the car and it is this one which I am sure is/was leaking and what I think is the return hose feed (small bore). The pipe itself isn't looking too clever but I am having a technical issue getting all the photos off my phone at the moment. Below are a couple more taken with the inspection camera (which is very useful). The mess around the grommet makes me wonder if the pipe has corroded through and it is that which is leaking and maybe not the hose joint after all. Anyway I have some new s/s clips on order (these are also slightly wider than standard so apply a more even pressure) and have tidied up the end of the hoses by removing a couple of cm of deformed hose. I may try and push the pipes back in the chassis a bit, pushing from the front to get a better view of the damage. However I don't want to dislodge the grommets so we'll have to see how easily it want to twist before pushing it. I don't expect the clips for a couple of days at least so will take the time to investigate a bit more.

cheers

-Chris

IMG_2697.JPG

IMG_2696.JPG

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.


×
×
  • Create New...