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Alastair

Temperature in traffic jams

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Have been stuck in some heavy traffic on the motorway a couple of times recently. When car stationary (Evora S) I notice before long that the temperature gauge starts going up quite quickly.  A bit of forward movement helps to bring it down.

Have never reached stage yet where the gauge has gone all the way to the top but have considered whether I should just switch off the engine, but then concerned when the traffic shunts forward a little restarting may cause problems.

Car  has been serviced recently without any issues raised.

Is this temperature behaviour normal for the car or should I be getting it looked into - Driving to South France in August heat!

Edited by Alastair

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No, that’s not normal. Sounds like your thermostat is goosed. 

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It can get quite disconcerting and I think I look at the temperature gauge more on "sports cars" than I do on a normal car.

The Evora sits about 80 running and it gets to about 100 in hot traffic (about 3/4 up the guage) which is at the point where the fan kicks in. That is why you'd see the guage drop a smidge. I've run in seriously hot traffic around Lake Como/Lugano and considered switching off but have always been told it's better to run to keep it cooler with the fan etc. It's never got past 105 showing on torque app. 

Once on a trip mate running an Elise queuing in hot Eurotunnel traffic keep switching off which killed his battery meaning he missed his train slot. We think his Battery was on its way out that's why the temperature wasn't keeping stable though. 

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With 99% of modern cars having a gauge which doesn't move off centre most of the time no matter the water temp, the Evora gauge actually changing is initially cause for concern. It does move off centre and that's nothing to be worried about unless it gets too high. As Jimbo says, perhaps plug an OBD in and check it on an app if you're concerned.

Also, as mentioned above, every car gets hotter when you turn it off (unless is has an aux water pump) as the coolant stops circulating. In my Elise for example, which is kinda known for poor cooling if I gave the engine some revs when the fans came in it cooled quicker due to the extra circulation. 


88 Esprit NA, 89 Esprit Turbo SE, Evora, Evora S, Evora IPS, Evora S IPS, Evora S IPS SR, Evora 400, Elise S1, Elise S1 111s, Evora GT410 Sport

Evora NA

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Windows open, heater on full blast, and the engine temperature will come down. Yours won't though.:rant:


Dave.

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I seem to remember that the Evora is worldwide compliant, it doesn't need any extra cooling even in the Gulf states so that's not really necessary, it'll look after itself just fine. 

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88 Esprit NA, 89 Esprit Turbo SE, Evora, Evora S, Evora IPS, Evora S IPS, Evora S IPS SR, Evora 400, Elise S1, Elise S1 111s, Evora GT410 Sport

Evora NA

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Solved in the 400 by deleting the temp gauge. Just a blue and red thermometer (at least I believe there is a red one, I’ve never seen it though). 

Something to do with adding lightness :question: but definitely something I’d rather have. 


A Lotus is for driving, pork is for breakfast.

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On my S, the engine bay temperature is also very high in traffic jams, and when I stop the car. I use to open the trunk for 10-20 minutes after each run in high temp conditions. I think the 2 header cats diffuse a lot of heat, even after the engine is stopped.

To prevent that, US and other hot countries cars have an additional engine bay fan in the right side intake (A132K0054F), wich is on when the temp is hot and the car stopped. It is standard in the Evora 400 (with a bigger fan), with the addition of a new rear undertray with spacers to have more air.

I would like to upgrade my english market Evora S with the bay fan. It seems that the relay is installed on every cars in the fuse panel, and I can see an electrical wire near the side intake wich seems to be the good one. Does anybody knows if it is simple to install it?

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That sounds like a sensible idea - can't think an extra fan to remove heat will cause any issues - I'm sure someone on here will know more about the viability than I would - I would also suggest calling a dealer / specialist and see if they can advise.  Can you see / tell if it will mount securely?

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Temp gauge on my 2010 Evora sits at 1/2 and goes to 1 notch above when sat in traffic. Outside air temperature is in the mid 40C range this time of year.

Car has a fan in the engine bay which kicks in from time to time.

I do tend to keep 1 eye on the temp gauge as my Elan used to overheat constantly, and as Dave Eds says, it was heater on full and roof down.

Fortunately it now behaving itself.

 

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On 20/05/2018 at 13:43, Colin P said:

Solved in the 400 by deleting the temp gauge. Just a blue and red thermometer (at least I believe there is a red one, I’ve never seen it though). 

Something to do with adding lightness :question: but definitely something I’d rather have. 

Blue light off at 60 C (confirmed with Datalogger), Red light on (maybe) at 113 C

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It's totally normal.

Up after reving in traffic. Driving for a about 4mins brings it down.

 

If it runs hotter and stays hotter on track or hard driving then you likely have a problem.

Which is then likely the top of the plastic rad tank is leaking slightly. And this might not even show if pressure tested. Mine was slowly getting hotter over 2 years and it bugged me big time. I had it pressure tested twice (at LMS and at a dealer) no leak detected. I bought a new waterpump and thermostat and self intstalled - this is a BIG job, rear clam off. Still no different. I was extremely irriated and no longer letting myself track or drive hard. Readings on Tech Center showed no over heating or abnormal temps but I knew what I was seeing on the guage. So I bought was an alloy rad (everyone was telling me I was paranoid), and again as no dealer over here, I self installed. A big job front calm off and bleeding. It's as big a job a rear clam off.  And what did I find? 

 

Rad COATED like a carpet between the ac rad and the rad. It's impossible - repeat - impossible to clean this with a jet washer because of the fan shroud above and ac rad infront below. its a very stupid design. My milage is intergalactic (over 160k now). Dirt/dust builds up. Every Evora will get to this point. And ofcourse I found what LMS and dealers and others all said was not happening - the rad had a leak just like most elise/exiges get where the plastic end tank and alloy rad core join. it Gummed up the anitfreeze against the insulating foam so only under high RPM was it actually leaking, hence the pressure tests at engine off were not able to replicate it. Since the new rad there have no more issues (and I have 40 deg summers, track time, much hard mountain driving including to Corsica and back). At abient over 30 deg it can still sometimes climb one or two bar over half for a few minutes. Totally normal and the same when on the original rad and now with the race/alloy rad. 

 

The engine bay fan for hot countries is a very good thing. It forces hot air out and cools engine bay ancillaries. I had LMS at the factory retro install it on mine with a manual switch in the 'coin tray'. So I can run it anytime and also after shut down it runs for 4mins if I turn it on before ignition off.

 

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In addition to the above I guess the best person to answer this would be the oil manufacturer.. knowing the normal (max and min temp) safe operating range of the oil (+viscosity range) would be useful.

Modern oils should protect your engine at those sorts of temps before and exceeding the red light.

Being mechanically sympathetic after extreme temperatures could save additional wear/damage to your engine even more than just the high temperatures. In theory the oil is at its thinnest and least protective state when hot. A high rpm will have metal on metal with reduced oil lubrication... 

Keep the revs low (just like the warm up) until the gauge is back to normal range before full throttle after traffic jams.

 

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