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Excel ( 1990 ) Valve Adjustments


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To adjust the valve setting do I have to take the engine out to get to the lower bank  ? I know you have to turn the engine over by hand and use 

feeler gauges to first check the gap , then check the difference between what it should be and what it is and shim the difference .

My second question is how to get the hats off to put shims in ?

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This might sound silly but do I put the magnets on top of the hats as I lift the cam shaft off ?  so I need 8 of them and how strong do they have to be ? and are they special ones ?

Also will the hats stay on the valve stems when I life the cam shaft off with the magnets ?

I ask all this because I have only tinkered with a Ford V6 3.0 in the past that had  rocker arms that was easy to adjust .

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The magnets are best if they are very strong, such as rare earth ones (mine are probably 6mm diameter 10mm long barrels). I don't always use them, oil tends to give enough adhesion that you can lift the carrier away, roll it so that the bottom is at the top, and nothing slips during those few seconds. Once you're doing it dry with no oil (such as first test after adjusting the shims) then you expect to need magnets.

Yes, on top of the followers / top hats, they (partially) keep the follower in contact with the cam so the followers lift off with the carrier. The shims may well stay with the stems& springs,or may come with the follower.

 

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I only thought I would check the gaps with feeler gauges and shim if required as I am changing the 3 belts , anti-freeze , oil and filter , air filter and all the ignition bits . But the reason to check the valve clearance is I hear a loud ticking noise when it is idling .

The other main reason is I have only had the car a couple of weeks with very little history and haven't been out in it yet so don't want any trouble with it when I do go . 

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20 hours ago, andydclements said:

Over time, the valves (faces and top of stems) , valve seats (faces), shims (where it sits on valve stem) all wear, the latter being the most noticeable. As  they wear, some tighten up the gaps(Valve faces & seats),  the other two open up the gaps.

This from Tim Engel recently on the Yahoo Group for the Turbo Esprit:

The valve clearances close up with use/ wear. That's normal, and it's called Valve Recession. On both clearance ranges (0.005-0.007" In / 0.010-0.012" Ex), the lower number is the service limit... the minimum you can allow before going back in to re-shim the valves. Starting at or near the minimum is a bad idea, since you're just going to end up doing the job again very soon.

Always shim for the top of the range... 0.007" Intake and 0.012" Exhaust.

 

This is what I'm now in the process of doing as I'm putting the engine back together...

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Quite right:

"The valve clearances close up with use/ wear. That's normal, and it's called Valve Recession. On both clearance ranges (0.005-0.007" In / 0.010-0.012" Ex), the lower number is the service limit... the minimum you can allow before going back in to re-shim the valves. Starting at or near the minimum is a bad idea, since you're just going to end up doing the job again very soon.

Always shim for the top of the range... 0.007" Intake and 0.012" Exhaust."

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I should clarify, when I say "most noticeable" what I mean is, you can actually see it with the eyes. If a shim has wear on it from the valve stem then you'll see a noticeable step in the face, as though it's part way to becoming a metal polo mint. The recession on the valve faces etc is harder to see until you compare the side by side with a freshly ground/ cut valve.

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