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'88 Carb Turbo Stevens Esprit - Catch Up Maintenance! - Page 4 - Esprit 'Project & Restoration' Room - The Lotus Forums Jump to content
Llewelyn82

'88 Carb Turbo Stevens Esprit - Catch Up Maintenance!

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No photos but just an update on the carb tuning.... Everything reassembled and balanced, also took the liberty of fitting a brand new distributor and changed the oil and filter. Engine bay is also looking much fresher with the repainted plenum stuff.

Car now goes like a scalded cat - In fact I can't believe how quick it is :) :) :)

It's not quite finished yet as there is now a flat spot off idle until approx 2200 rpm. We think it's the idle jets (58) so I've order up a set of 60s and 62s to have a play with and see if we can iron it out. It seems to lean out during progression for some reason which points towards the idle jets.

Any tips on this issue appreciated, the car runs absolutely beautifully other than that. I'm pretty sure it's not an air leak and all fuel/spark delivery is brand new.

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Hi Llewelyn, may be worth changing the accelerator pump diaphragms if you haven't already done so, they can harden or perish over time.

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5 hours ago, Steve V8 said:

Hi Llewelyn, may be worth changing the accelerator pump diaphragms if you haven't already done so, they can harden or perish over time.

Thanks for the tip, carbs have been fully rebuilt including the pump diaphragms so I doubt they would be the issue :)

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Hi Llewelyn,

Glad to see how well your car is coming along! It is the height of beauty as goes the Stevens series, just pure flowing lines. If you find no conventional solution for what does seem to be a carb related glitch, you might want to investigate what's been developed by an American chap, Keith Franck, who hosts two forums on Yahoo. Pertinently, see < Sidedraft Central >, where he chronicles nearly two decades of rigorously methodical R&D on sorting problems inherent to Dell'orto type carbs. He has developed alternative emulsion tubes which are getting raves for bringing the main system in more quickly. Impressions are very positive and numerous, though as yet only from those running N/A motors. He also offers more sophisticated slow-run jets, though only for DCOE's AFAIK. KF has accumulated a deep and broad understanding of how independent runner sidedraught carbs function and, though he has understandably focused work on the DCOE's, his knowledge covers much more. Worth checking out, IMO.

Cheers

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@drdoom wow thanks for mentioning that - Sounds very interesting, I will definitely do some reading up!

I'll report back my findings re the larger idle jets on Monday when I have a play :) Unfortunately my carb knowledge is a bit limited but I am enjoying the learning curve... I think!

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Car back and running great!! Fault mentioned above turned out to be a timing issue :)

I am glad to have it back ! I am quite pleased with my plenum refurb too, I just need to do the cam covers now which I'm hoping to get done this weekend. (also need to give all the shiny bits a polish)

I'm a bit confused about the throttle cable routing as most X180's I see seem to have the cable coming out over to the left in some sort of heatproof sleeve!? Is mine correct or should it be routed differently?

 

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3 hours ago, Llewelyn82 said:

I'm a bit confused about the throttle cable routing as most X180's I see seem to have the cable coming out over to the left in some sort of heatproof sleeve!? Is mine correct or should it be routed differently?

That throttle cable routing was used on the NA cars. 😞

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Cheers,

John W

http://jonwatkins.co.uk

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It’s been a while since I updated this thread...! Due to a house move and general day job workload I’ve had very little Esprit time! :(

Good news is I now have a garage at home so I haven’t got to take it anywhere to work on and I can basically tinker as and when I get a spare bit of time...

A few updates, I’ve bought some new tyres for my SE wheels - Went for 225/50/15 and 245/55/16 Toyo T1-R which was pretty much the closest to original sizes I could find... Fairly reasonable as well, around £320 all in for the 4. I’ll be getting the wheels refinished in “JPS” gold before they are fitted and will post some photos.

The car needs a clutch, LH fuel tank, cambelt and a few other small jobs (gearbox oil flush, a few oil leaks to look at and a jolly good engine bay clean/spruce up) which I’m aiming to get finished for MOT time which is early feb.

I’ve stripped it down and made my first attempt at removing the tank. It’s so bloody frustrating!! Almost comes out, it’s literally 10mm too tight! I removed the exhaust camshaft cover which helped a bit but not enough. I think I’m going to just cut up the tank and either have it modified or get a smaller one made. I know a highly skilled fabricator who should be able to come up with something. While I was in there I removed the balance pipe which is on it’s last legs, and simply cut off all the old hoses which are way past their sell-by date so they’ll all be replaced at the same time.

heres a few pics... more updates coming soon... :)

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I’ve got a pair of tanks out of the S4s you are welcome to if any use

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7 hours ago, Barrykearley said:

I’ve got a pair of tanks out of the S4s you are welcome to if any use

Awesome, definitely need one of them - I’ve sent you a private message back... on hol at the mo visiting family so only just picked this up :)

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5 hours ago, Steve V8 said:

If you're gonna do clutch and  cambelt aswell, I'd suggest pulling the lump out, in the long run it would probably save you time. Tanks are so easy when you can stand in the engine bay, the cambelt will be so much easier without having to climb over and under and struggling between the engine and bulkhead and you'd do the clutch in half the time. Also give you the chance to replace the engine mounts which deteriorate quickly, and clean up those places which are inaccessible engine in. @Barrykearley I'm sure would have you fitting an Allunox system on there too if not already done while it's out. 

I don't know if this is a thing, but Ed China mentioned on Wheeler Dealers that as rule of thumb if more than three jobs need doing on the Esprit engine it's better to remove it.

I thought about it and was very tempted to actually but I’d rather not just yet so I’ll struggle on with it in situ.... !! I’m not that confident in doing it and I don’t have a hoist. Plus I work alone so I’m not going to bother. If I had a willing mate to help me I’d quite like to but that’s not the case sadly!

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A second pair of hands is really useful when removing and refitting the lump in place. I’d not wish to do that task solo as there’s just too many things to watch and look for. I’ve been a bit spoilt with the tractor extraction method - it’s so easy and smooth.

its without question a no brainer to pull the lump if you’ve a few jobs to attend to. Got it down to about the 5 hour mark to remove the lump. With the engine out a cam belt swap is about 1/2 hour and similar to do the alunox fit. Both of those jobs are a pain in the arse with the lump in situ.

i take my hat off to you having the patience to pull the tanks with the lump insitu - I can only imagine the bruises obtained and skin loss encountered.

the engine mounting bolts into the block are very often and issue - the top one is often missing or thread stripped - so that’s worth a look

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2 hours ago, Llewelyn82 said:

New balance pipe (I'm going for a 22mm piece of plumbing pipe actually, what do you reckon to that for a bodge?!)

A new balance pipe is only £30 from PNM

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And it’s steel for a reason. Don’t use copper it’s too soft

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The copper pipe thing was my attempt at a joke 😁 

In other news... Hey presto - it's out! (what a ball ache) 

For future reference (I know I've searched the Internet to high heaven looking for miracle extractions)... Dropped the offside engine mount and slowly released the engine down on a trolley jack supported by a very large chock to spread the load as much as possible and to try and lower it evenly until eventually there was enough space to get the tank out. I don't think this method would work with the gearbox fitted mind you. Getting the mount back on will be fun. Oh and by the way a genius bit of design I discovered was that the rearmost mount bolt is obscured almost completely by one of the large oil pipes coming off the filter housing so. The only way to get it back in will be to remove that pipe. Which will make a right mess!! I've only just done an oil change so I might put a short bolt in for now and change it when I drop the oil. At least the tank is out! 

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Copper has its uses on a V890ACC2E2-28F6-46AE-9D8F-F8CE2FC1ECCF.thumb.jpeg.04132f19c2cf513c36d8e1f59c329831.jpeg

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Llewelyn, that's a truly fine looking car with gold colour wheels really setting off the red shell!

Advise you watch that cheapie rad closely, from all who've chimed in on the forums with experience of alloy, including American made. Also I'd suggest you fabricate pod stays in light steel and replace those AL tubes as the difference in durability is great.

Well done sir!

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Thanks @drdoom:) I will be keeping a very close eye on the rad! To be honest it'll be around 30 mins work to remove it second time around should it fail as all my new fixings are stainless (and greased!) so no rusty old bolts to cut off next time around :)

It was cheap, therefore a gamble I was willing to take but we will see what happens. Regards the AL pod stays, they are not under any stress so figured AL would be OK, but again we will see! Every day is a school day... 

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