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Nah, I’m pretty sure that Mr Senna could h&t in any car that you put him in.  😜

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On 03/07/2018 at 18:40, chumaxa said:

After all you read here you still make that statement ? Because it works on your car and you think you practice more than others, then it is a human issue ? Good that it works on your car, specially because your car is a 380 also, pretty sure it is different between generations .. No H&T problem in : clio 172 / clio 182 / clio 197 / megane 225 / mazda mx5 mk3 / megane 250 / Lotus exige 192 / Exige 260 / Vx220 / Caterham, then suddenly I am not able to understand how works the S3 (which I have had for 2 years now) ? I play a lot of sim racing as well (no crap like forza of course), and that for years, so I kind of knew how to do it before having interesting cars. Good for you if you improve, but there is no improvement scale here as the behavior is not constant. Like if you try to do a painting, you start with a brush and somehow you get a wok for 20 seconds instead ..  

I’ve had a few similar cars to you including a clio, VX220 and Caterham.   There is no doubt that the Exige V6 is tricky to heel and toe, especially on the road.   For the first month or two of ownership I hated the car for it, especially as I still owned my Caterham at the time, which was perfect for h&t.  It is a frustrating system to learn, but you can learn it with time and then do it perfectly every time.  Having said that, maybe some people don’t have it in them... @JG220 sold his because he couldn’t work it out (it was the car’s fault of course!)

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Too true 😁

Fab car though it was, I found it annoying, and didn’t want to have to learn its unique way. Love my VX220 much more from that persective. It was too hot and noisy though this weekend for the 3 hrs I drove it. 

What I really need is something which combines the two. Oh hang on wait...

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I'll chip in my two pence worth.

After getting the traction control light only light on maybe once or twice per year since owning the car on a recent tour of lake district it was happening every journey, so after a quick google I thought the first place to start was changing the brake pedal sensor (I ordered from monkey wrench racing in US and cost nearly £30.... I think its possible to find a lot cheaper at a local motor factor https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/product/grp-brake-pedal-switch-evora/).

At first it didn't seem to have worked but after a quick text to a friendly lotus master tech he said the way he recommends to install rather than setting 'clicks' is to just pull plunger all the way out, push the brake pedal in and fit and then let brake pedal push switch in and set number of clicks (will make sense when it in front of you).. bobs your uncle all fine now after a month or so.

As an aside (and to get back on thread) and i'm not 100% its not a placebo I do feel its become a lot more consistent when blipping the throttle for heal and toe, which I did used to find inconsistent.

so for  a relatively cheap potential fix if you suffer from heal and toe inconsistency, maybe try changing brake pedal switch.

 

Edited by RedViper

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Interesting... I think my brake switch is too sensitive in the Elise.

you only have to breath on the brake pedal to get cruise to disengage (I think it uses the brake switch).

i also get traction light a few times and also lack of pedal response a few extra times (with no codes or lights).

sounds like it needs clicking in one or two clicks.

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Can anyone post up a drawing/detailed description of what has to be adjusted and, am I the only one who has adverts they cant get rid of, over half of whats been written!?

 

Martin S

 

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You have a Basic account, Martin. When you upgrade to an FFM, things like ads miraculously disappear. ;)

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1 hour ago, MARTIN_S said:

Can anyone post up a drawing/detailed description of what has to be adjusted and, am I the only one who has adverts they cant get rid of, over half of whats been written!?

 

Martin S

 

Are you using an iPad by any chance? I have the same issue as you on mine, but the site is fine on the desktop. although the AdBlock add-on might have something to do with that ;)

 

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I'm not clear on the brake switch stuff described above and how that would help, or are there examples of faulty/ poorly installed brake positions sensors?

I find the H&T much easier in Race mode on the track when giving it the beans. I've always H&T'd all my cars, and it strikes me that with a slightly sharper throttle response at low revs it would be fine. It just doesn't enjoy being 'mildly' H&Td which is a share. Seems to me there will be a reason why this isn't part of the throttle map. Some drivability or durability reason maybe?

i still think that some of the problem must lie with it being forced induction, ie stalled inlet etc

 

Edited by Sharky

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The “anti two pedal” mode mentioned within this thread is, I believe, properly known as “brake throttle over-ride” or “BTO”.

If memory serves correctly, the BTO “feature” was introduced by EU and Federal safety legislation.  The feature is intended to mitigate a drivers input to the pedals where the ECU believes the input to be an error - i.e., attempting significant “unintended” throttle input during emergency braking.

Obviously, keen readers amongst this forum (and heal and toe masters) will argue that BTO defeats the pedal input required for effective h&t... where both pedals are covered by the right foot.  While Lotus ECU programming does permit effective heal and toe, timing and method of pedal input appears to be critical.

A futher complication with the Exige,  in context of blipping the throttle, is the Clutch Potentiomenter - this sensor providing control input to the ECU regarding clutch pedal position.  To protect the clutch, the ECU programming will inhibit large throttle opening with the clutch disengaged/slipping - such instances potentially coinciding with attemped h&t.  Simultaneous operation of all three pedals can seriously and dangerously destabilise the car.

Clearly, many of our cars have little or no problem with heal and toe - or throttle blipping.  Where difficulties are experienced, several possibilities exist to explain them - these being driver technique, incorrect sensor adjustment, or defective sensors.  The driving gods, or course, might have some difficulty accepting the possibility of defective or inconsistent technique; other marques may have simpler ECU programming - or may be more tollerant of technique.

 

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