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The drop glass in my Esprit S4 is scratched to death. I have managed to purchase two new panes but immediately noticed they come without the metal guide trim on the bottom. I will need to somehow remove the old one from the glass as new ones are now obsolete.

Can anyone give any advice on:

the removal of the actual window (I have already removed the door trim etc) and

if it is possible to remove and refit the metal trim from the bottom.

Thanks, Shaun.

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Ok after doing some research and applying a little warmth I have managed to pop the mounting balls nylon retaining slides so glass is free to move. No amount of adjustment on the rear of the frame seems to assist the window leaving the vehicle. Have I got to completely remove the upper window frame to jiggle the window glass out?

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I think from memory, you do need to take the frame off. Then the weather strip.. and then the window will come out. The weather strip may be a bit rusty, so while it's off it's worth doing some work on it depending on how badly rusted it is.

I don't think you can get the weather strips anymore.

Try and mark the position of the washers and nuts holding the frame in, as this alignment is quite critical for the window to run smoothly.

It could be this alignment has been out which is why the window has been rubbing and scratching.

The older window mechanism with a single arm was very, very sensitive to alignment and would simply not close the window (or at least creep up mega slowly) if the alignment was out. The later two arm mechanism is much better at raising and dropping the window making the alignment slightly less critical.. hence the possible scratches you have. I changed from '88 style doors to the later style doors with Vauxhall door handles so I've been through this. :)

You can actually get diamond polish to polish scratches out of glass. You apply it to a felt pad on a drill, but you have to be careful doing it as it makes the glass mega hot.

I used it on my car when I had a scratch on my windscreen in my eyeline that was really bugging me, and it did indeed work.

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Thanks Glyn. Its actually the weather strip retainer that corroded and curled back creating steel claws that have gouged the window over the years. However the po could stand it was beyond me and 2 minutes trimming off the offending items cured the cause. The damage however is very deep, I would say over 1mm so no chance of a flat and polish im afraid. Still need to figure out how to remove the guide trim from the window once its free.

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2 hours ago, Clarky5150 said:

Thanks Glyn. Its actually the weather strip retainer that corroded and curled back creating steel claws that have gouged the window over the years. However the po could stand it was beyond me and 2 minutes trimming off the offending items cured the cause. The damage however is very deep, I would say over 1mm so no chance of a flat and polish im afraid. Still need to figure out how to remove the guide trim from the window once its free.

I have the same problem but for a different reason... I want to change the clear glass in a pair of doors on an S1 for a set of tinted glass as one of the drop glasses is broken and I can't find a replacement which is clear. So if you find something that dissolves that black gorilla snot let me know please. I heard a soaking overnight in engine gunk softens the stuff but I haven't tried it personally.

Lotus Esprit [meaning] a 1:1 scale Airfix kit with a propensity to catch fire

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If all else fails it will be vice, hammer and dustpan/brush action. Heat gun should sort the remnants.will have to wait til after family holidays now. Yet another ‘should take an afternoon.....’ special.

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I imagine heating it will soften if for sure. The use some polyurethane like Sikaflex when fitting the seal onto the new window. See how it's spaced on the runner before removing it though, or do one at a time so you can check.. otherwise you could end up in a world of pain aligning it all afterwards. They may have some spacers or something to have the glass exactly central in the channel.

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Ive seen them remove bonded in side windows on campervans with cheese wire. I have plenty of guitar strings around so will try that method. Its a tight channel so cant see an issue with alignment. The window itself has positioning dimples on the bottom edge so rebuild will be fairly painless. 

Paul, don't forget a stripe of window primer on the glass before using the Sikaflex or it may not adhere properly. rather than buy a tin you may want to call past a windscreen fitting company for a quick application in return for a couple of quid to their tea fund ;) 

Capture.PNG

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7 hours ago, Clarky5150 said:

Ive seen them remove bonded in side windows on campervans with cheese wire. I have plenty of guitar strings around so will try that method. Its a tight channel so cant see an issue with alignment. The window itself has positioning dimples on the bottom edge so rebuild will be fairly painless. 

Paul, don't forget a stripe of window primer on the glass before using the Sikaflex or it may not adhere properly. rather than buy a tin you may want to call past a windscreen fitting company for a quick application in return for a couple of quid to their tea fund ;)

Capture.PNG

I used this kit when I did the windscreen and tailgate glass on my S1... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DINITROL-501-FAST-CURE-WINDSCREEN-FITTING-KIT-BONDING-ADHESIVE-GLUE-SEALANT-OEM/223018962054?epid=23007045233&hash=item33ecf74c86:g:VmQAAOSwusdagYGl

Worked a treat :)

Lotus Esprit [meaning] a 1:1 scale Airfix kit with a propensity to catch fire

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On 21/08/2018 at 12:08, Clarky5150 said:

Ok after doing some research and applying a little warmth I have managed to pop the mounting balls nylon retaining slides so glass is free to move. No amount of adjustment on the rear of the frame seems to assist the window leaving the vehicle. Have I got to completely remove the upper window frame to jiggle the window glass out?

I've taken my drop glass out and the best way to do them is to remove the door glass frame as well. The first door I came to refit I didn't fit the drop glass in and it was a bugger to get back in. Lesson learned so the final door I put the glass in the door frame and refitted. The motor runner balls are easy to fit back in the runner.

I had them apart to do my glass outer seal strips and repaint the metal trim.
Drop glass removal

I've fitted runners on the bottom of new glass before when I used to work in accident repair. Most consist of a runner with a rubber insert to go next to the glass, the runner is an interference fit. You usually line it all up and hit it with a mallet, going along the runner knocking it on evenly until its home and the glass has bottomed out. It seems daunting hitting the runner on the glass, but the glass is really tough, but best to have it on a good solid surface so the energy isn't lost from the mallet as you knock it on. Just remember to measure the runner distance from an edge on the old glass before removal.

Edited by OwenGT3
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