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Oil Pressure Oddness


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I had the alternator bearings changed while it was off so probably eliminates that. They didn't feel quite right and I thought (along with the knackered tensioner bearing) the alternator might be contributing to my mystery whine.

Cam journals worn? What's the answer there if that's the problem? As far as I can see there are no replaceable camshaft bearings.

Not worth starting anything now...🍺

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Neil don’t talk to me about being paranoid about strange noises, a year or so ago I pulled up at a set of lights in the TE and seriously shat myself at this buzzing sound, it sounded catastrophic. I s

Ignition timing checked and carbs balanced and she's running like a dream. Smooth at tickover, pulls well, good oil pressure from cold (builds on the gauge in 5-6 seconds) and at hot tick over. T

Sorted mainly thanks to the help and advice on here (and over the phone!). Sometimes it's just what you need to give you the confidence to keep going 👍

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Not necessarily an issue worth looking at.  First off, get that tension checked!  With the right tools, you can adjust the tensioner without any dismantling.

British Fart to Florida, Nude to New York, Dunce to Denmark, Numpty to Newfoundland.  And Shitfaced Silly Sod to Sweden.

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Yes, I'll have another look at the tension next weekend. If that doesn't change anything maybe I should try swapping a pulley off the TE engine to see if it makes any difference. It's a HC engine too and as far as I can see from Deroure it will be the same pulley.

Not worth starting anything now...🍺

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Looks like all ended well despite much worry, but if one was to revisit the oil pump gasket issue:

You can dry assemble the pump housing over the rotor/annulus  with a piece of Plastigage (don't know UK equivalent brand, a deformable plastic rod used to measure small clearances) and check the pump end float just like you would fitting crank bearings.  Then you can make an informed decision on gasket thickness, or grind the pump housing face to reduce end float.

What would sell on these forums would be if someone found a similar diameter (OEM?) rotor set that was taller and made a pump housing (or doweled spacer) to fit it.  The powdered metal innards could be had affordably, but a custom housing would drive up the cost. Said housing could feature a threaded port to prime the pump and oil galleys!

 

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@eeyoreish more than happy to have a look Neil, but not sure i'll be of much use. You're welcome to borrow my Krikit gauge which I've found perfectly good for tensioning the cambelt.

Pete

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Pete '79 S2

LEW Miss September 2009

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Thanks Pete. Based on the advice here so far I need to investigate the belt tension first. Do you think I’d be able to get access to get the gauge on the belt with the engine in? If so then yes, borrowing it would be a great help.

Not worth starting anything now...🍺

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The Krikit gauge is very small.  You absolutely must use it correctly!  It's easy to get a bad reading.

British Fart to Florida, Nude to New York, Dunce to Denmark, Numpty to Newfoundland.  And Shitfaced Silly Sod to Sweden.

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1 hour ago, Sparky said:

The Krikit gauge is very small.  You absolutely must use it correctly!  It's easy to get a bad reading.

You are right @Sparky but I'm on my 3rd Krikit- tensioned cambelt and so far so good (and that's not because the previous 2 snapped!).

@eeyoreish We can certainly give it a go Neil. I only need to get to the long bit of belt at the top and it should give you a ballpark to work from. PM me and we'll sort a time. 

Pete

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Pete '79 S2

LEW Miss September 2009

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1 hour ago, 910Esprit said:

If you are on a round profile tooth, why not just do it by frequency?

I thought it was valid for trapezoidal teeth too? The Gates Carbon Drive app works really well.

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Yeah I agree.  I use 'Carbon Drive' on my trap belt.  (I actually had a Lotus Burroughs gauge, but sold it when 'frequency' came more device accessible....)   However, Lotus explicitly recommended frequency for the round tooth profile, but I don't think they ever did for Trap profile, so I always think its a bit more of 'use it at your own risk'

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I saw an old post of yours and Geert, which was interesting.  is 114Hz still what you set your trap belt to? And assume that +/-10% gives plenty of latitude? I checked mine and it seems to run fine around 110Hz, any more and I got some whine.

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So how exactly are people measuring frequency of the round toothed belt? I've never done it so interested to know how it's done and what app etc to use. I have an iPhone if that's a suitable 'tool'?

Not worth starting anything now...🍺

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Download Gates Carbon Drive app to your phone (assuming its available on IOS)  If not, there will be many other instrument tuning apps that display frequency.   Rotate the crankshaft until the engine is at 30degrees BTDC (important).  Cold engine of course .   Then hit (a sharp  tap) the cambelt between the aux pulley and the inlet pulley with something suitable, I use the handle of a large screwdriver, its not too important as long as its suitably weighted and could not damage the belt.   Simply read the frequency from the phone that is being held in reasonably close proximity to the belt being struck.  Adjust as required then recheck....

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Thanks, sounds simple enough!

So I'm rotating the engine clockwise as normal and not backing it off anti-clockwise at all? Do I drop/bounce the screwdriver handle on the belt or just give it a short, sharp tap?

Not worth starting anything now...🍺

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Its super simple, I can't understand why anyone faffs around with gauges anymore, they always seem more inconsistent to me.

Rotate engine in 'normal' direction until 30 degrees btdc,  The advice is not to rotate these engines backwards, although I suspect that instruction originates from models with the semi-automatic tensioner (not yours).   You'll get a feeling for it, its a brisk tap, but with a solid object with enough weight to get a reading.   As you will see, the readings will be pretty consistent however you approach it

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I find just plucking the belt by hand works fine, as long as you have finger nails I guess. The Carbon Drive software seems very good at picking up even short plucks. I suspect it has a very sharp filter around the desired frequency range. 

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Frequency measuring should be done 30 BTDC with the timing dots on the inlet and exhaust cam pulleys pointing to each other, but not aligned.

The chargecooler pump impeller will be damaged if you turn the engine backwards.

Even if you turn the engine a little bit backwards (tempting to do when you overshoot the 30BTDC mark) will alter the tension of the belt between the pulleys and screwing up your measurements.

See the attached sheet from Lotus. (substitute Clavis Gauge for Phone app, Tuneit! etc).

sn_ef_p18a.pdf

Esprit Freak

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John, if you go into the Play Store app on your phone, you can get it there. If you haven't used Play Store before, do so. It has all sorts of good stuff(and lots of crap of course). If you just search the apps on your phone you will find it.

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