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Callaway

Snapped Flywheel Bolt! Suggestions?

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Well this week just became a damn nightmare. While I was tightening one of the flywheel bolts to 81 ft lbs, it managed to snap. So I am left with about 3/4 inch or a little more of a bolt stuck in my crank. Anyone think an easy out will get this one out? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! In the meantime, I think I am going to go lie down for a bit, i'm steamed.....

-Erik E.

1994 Esprit S4

Edited by Callaway

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Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.

I'm assuming that the 3/4" is below the crank flange. You'll need to either drill and tap with a reverse out or attempt a stud weld onto the broken stub. At 81 ft/lbs. I'd try the former.

As an aside, I'd get all new bolts and make sure that my torque wrench is accurate before attempting the reinstall after you get the stub out.

Hope it works out,

Steve

Edited by arium

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I'm assuming that the 3/4" is below the crank flange. You'll need to either drill and tap with a reverse out or attempt a stud weld onto the broken stub. At 81 ft/lbs. I'd try the former.

As an aside, I'd get all new bolts and make sure that my torque wrench is accurate before attempting the reinstall after you get the stub out.

Hope it works out,

Steve

Steve,

Thanks for reply! Just got the flywheel back off and the stud is about a little less than a 1/4 inch below the crank flange. Guess I'll have a go with an reverse out, in the meantime I will definitely be ordering a whole new set of bolts on Monday!

-Erik E.

1994 Esprit S4

Edited by Callaway

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Well this week just became a damn nightmare. While I was tightening one of the flywheel bolts to 81 ft lbs, it managed to snap. -Erik E.

1994 Esprit S4

Erik,

Not sure where you got your torque specs but the flywheel bolts on the S4 should be torqued to 55 lb.ft, not 81.

I believe the 81 lb.ft is for the V8 flywheel....

FWIW, I have a very nice XL spreadsheet prepared by Tim Engel for torque specs for the 93-97 MY cars. Email or PM me if you'd like a copy.

Edited by lotus4s

1995 S4s

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One other thing, IIRC you were doing this without removing the tranny and just sliding it back. If you haven't yet, I would highly suggest removing the tranny at this point as you will need the room to do a proper job on getting the bolt out.

And make sure you have the best quality drill bits and easy out or you run the risk of snapping them off inside the bolt and compounding the problem. You might want to consider having a professional remove the broken bolt if you don't feel confident with the procedure.

Good luck!


1995 S4s

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As the bolt sheared due to the torque in doing it up I would expect it to be pretty loose in its thread - after all it wasn't seized or bottomed out, therefore it has no pressure on it now and should just unscrew once you can get a connection to it - left handed drill may just spin it out.

Phil

98GT3

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As the bolt sheared due to the torque in doing it up I would expect it to be pretty loose in its thread - after all it wasn't seized or bottomed out, therefore it has no pressure on it now and should just unscrew once you can get a connection to it - left handed drill may just spin it out.

Phil

98GT3

Very true and that would be the best case scenario. Could be a little tougher though since I believe the flywheel bolts are hardened and should have been installed with lock-tite...


1995 S4s

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DOH!

Jim, you were right! I went back and looked at my manual where I found the torque specs, sure enough it says V8; tighten two of the bolts, then apply loctite to the remaining bolts and tighten to 81 ft lbs. This one is on me! I must have been in a hurry, I never even noticed it said V8, GOD I wish I had double checked now!

Thanks for the replies, I still need to get the driveshafts off and obtain a cherry picker to lift the tranny out. Its unfortunate because thats what I was trying to avoid the whole time!

Anyone know if it might be possible to get the stub out with the tranny still behind it? Depending on the size of the drill needed, I might be able to slide one in there and get it lined up. I have about a 4-5 inch gap and the the space inside the front of the tranny to work with.

Thanks!

-Erik E.

1994 Esprit S4

Edited by Callaway

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You might be able to get in there with an angle drill but you need to be able to see it well and drill straight in. All depends on how loose the bolt actually is.

You don't need a cherry picker for the tranny. 2 guys can take it out with no problem, just put a blanket on the rear transom so you don't scratch the car. I would guess it weighs around 100 lbs. I've done it by myself once or twice.

You will need to drain the tranny before pulling the driveshafts.


1995 S4s

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It's a bout 145lbs I think we figured once.

You really want to take the tranny out at this point!

One slip with the drill and you run the risk of damaging the threads in the crank.

You need to use a good centerpunch on the broken bolt and make sure that drill bit is perfectly centered.

Drill bits will curve with too much pressure, or if you arent straight, and that will cause it to go out the side of the bolt and into the crank threads.

Make sure the drill is perfectly straight, and don't use too much pressure. Also use a cutting oil to keep the drill from overheating, and hardening the bolt steel.


Travis

Vulcan Grey 89SE

My Lotus Photo and Projects Album

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After pulling the driveshafts will it be necessary to replace the seals? The reason I ask is because mine have never leaked so I assume they are in good shape. On top of that I already ordered the new flywheel bolts from JAE earlier today and had them overnighted, so if I were going to get some new seals I should have included them in that shipment!

Anyone have any helpful insight into removing the driveshafts? Anything I should be aware of before I begin?

Thanks again everyone, this is a great community and I can't thank you guys enough for all of the help and support you have given me!

-Erik E.

1994 Esprit S4

Edited by Callaway

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After pulling the driveshafts will it be necessary to replace the seals? The reason I ask is because mine have never leaked so I assume they are in good shape. On top of that I already ordered the new flywheel bolts from JAE earlier today and had them overnighted, so if I were going to get some new seals I should have included them in that shipment!

Anyone have any helpful insight into removing the driveshafts? Anything I should be aware of before I begin?

Thanks again everyone, this is a great community and I can't thank you guys enough for all of the help and support you have given me!

-Erik E.

1994 Esprit S4

http://www.lotuscolorado.com/vulcangrey/trannyseals.doc


Travis

Vulcan Grey 89SE

My Lotus Photo and Projects Album

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Travis,

Great guide, thanks for the link.

Will it be completely necessary to remove the seals and o-rings if they are not leaking, or can I just knock out the roll pins to release the driveshafts from the tranny so that I can lift it out of the car? From looking at your guide it looks like I could pull this off, but I could be missing something.

-Erik E.

1994 Esprit S4

Edited by Callaway

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Travis,

Great guide, thanks for the link.

Will it be completely necessary to remove the seals and o-rings if they are not leaking, or can I just knock out the roll pins to release the driveshafts from the tranny so that I can lift it out of the car?

-Erik E.

1994 Esprit S4

It's one of those things... while you're in there, you might as well replace the seals... but then again, if it isn't broken...

There's the posibility that by removing the axles, you can damage the seals too.

I usually undo some of the suspension links too to get the axles out far enough.

Edited by Vulcan Grey

Travis

Vulcan Grey 89SE

My Lotus Photo and Projects Album

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It's one of those things... while you're in there, you might as well replace the seals... but then again, if it isn't broken...

There's the posibility that by removing the axles, you can damage the seals too.

LoL! That is definately true, God how I wish I had just looked at the right torque pressures for those bolts now! I could be out driving right now instead of stressing over it. Live and learn I suppose!

I think I'll try to be as gentle as possible while driving the roll pins out. Since I will not be removing the seals or o-rings unless they are damaged, will I still need to drain the tranny before taking the pins out? I'm assuming it only needs to be drained if you are going to replace the seals, but I want to double check before I make a mess of the garage floor (and waste good tranny oil, just replaced it only 3000 miles ago).

-Erik E.

1994 Esprit S4

Edited by Callaway

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LoL! That is definately true, God how I wish I had just looked at the right torque pressures for those bolts now! I could be out driving right now instead of stressing over it. Live and learn I suppose!

I think I'll try to be as gentle as possible while driving the roll pins out. Since I will not be removing the seals or o-rings unless they are damaged, will I still need to drain the tranny before taking the pins out? I'm assuming it only needs to be drained if you are going to replace the seals, but I want to double check before I make a mess of the garage floor (and waste good tranny oil, just replaced it only 3000 miles ago).

-Erik E.

1994 Esprit S4

You'll need to drain it if you disconnect the half shafts. It won't all drain out of the axle holes but if you don't keep the tranny perfectly level when you remove it then it will just pour out on the floor anyway. Since the fluid is relatively new you can catch it in a clean container and re-use it assuming it looks ok when you drain it.

It will take some pretty good licks with a hammer and good roll pin drift/punch to get the roll pins out, drive them out from the top. The holes in the half shafts and output shafts only line up one way so mark each side before you pull the shafts which will save you some grief later.

Personally I would replace the seals but that's your call and opens another can of worms. When installing the new seals you really need the seal tool to set them to the correct depth as their is no shoulder in the tranny case to seat the seal at the correct depth. Without the tool, note exactly where the seals are set now (how much of the rubber lip is protruding from the case) and seat the new ones with a large socket.

You can take a chance on the seals not leaking as it's not too difficult a job to do later, it's just a whole lot easier with the tranny out and on a bench...

Edited by lotus4s

1995 S4s

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Anyone know the exact size of punches I should buy?

I bought two, each fitting the circumference of the separate roll pins, and now I've got the first (smaller) punch jammed in there. I didn't think about the fact that the roll pins actually compress when put in. Now I need to figure out how I can pull the damn punch out. Its only about 3/4 inch pushed in, but its stuck pretty good. I've been pulling on it with a pair of pliers for the last 8 minutes and it hasn't come free yet.

Did I mention that I wish I would have just seen the right torque specs so I could have avoided this hassle!?! *FRUSTRATED*

-Erik E.

1994 Esprit S4

Edited by Callaway

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vice grips and hammer to pull the stuck punch.

Travis,

I'll give that a whirl, hopefully it will come free here soon. Do you know the size of your punches by any chance? Thanks!

-Erik E.

1994 Esprit S4

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Travis,

I'll give that a whirl, hopefully it will come free here soon. Do you know the size of your punches by any chance? Thanks!

-Erik E.

1994 Esprit S4

Erik,

PM sent...

7/32" (3/16 will work) punch, drive both pins out together. A roll pin punch works best as it has a little ball on the end to help locate the punch on the pin.

Edited by lotus4s

1995 S4s

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I finally managed to get the roll pins, tranny, AND bolt stud out today! Thanks Travis and everyone else who contributed! Now its just a reverse process and I should be good to go.

I need to send out a special thanks to Jim Knowles (lotus4s) for all of his help, wisdom, and support. I had the pleasure of speaking to Jim on the phone the other night and I can't say enough good things about him :respect:! I really appreciate it Jim, it was good to chat with you!

-Erik E.

1994 Esprit S4

Edited by Callaway

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I finally managed to get the roll pins, tranny, AND bolt stud out today! Thanks Travis and everyone else who contributed! Now its just a reverse process and I should be good to go.

I need to send out a special thanks to Jim Knowles (lotus4s) for all of his help, wisdom, and support. I had the pleasure of speaking to Jim on the phone the other night and I can't say enough good things about him :respect:! I really appreciate it Jim, it was good to chat with you!

-Erik E.

1994 Esprit S4

Erik,

What a relief, I would've offered some advice but haven't been in the clutch or tranny yet! Glad to hear you got the stud out, nice and easy now putting 'er back together!

Artie


89 White Esprit SE

...a few little upgrades....

93 RX7.....Silverstone

....slightly modded...Muahaha...

New Addition:

1990 300ZX TT......Hmmm

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